Post driver (pounder) for small compact tractors?

[leonz]

Building a trailer type post driver is another option, then I could mount the driver I want to it. The thing that's been holding me back on that is that a lot of the terrain where I work is pretty steep and rough, and I imagine maneuvering a trailer would be pretty tough in those situations. If I were doing all open fields that would work great. My hope is that the small Shaver type post drivers aren't really that bad, and its just the operators around here that make them not work.

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You would not need to build a trailer- a heavy 4-5 ton two axle that is low profile can carry supplies, the driver, fuel etc. and if if you put a front hitch kit of the tractor you will not have manuevering issues if you have chains atached to the trailer limiting its turning arc.

You would simply have the independent hydraulic pump and tank on the three point hitch and if need be you could load it on the trailer if it can be modified with a removable side board or two to allow easy towing with the drawbar of the tractor.

 

[Verticaltrx]

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You would not need to build a trailer- a heavy 4-5 ton two axle that is low profile can carry supplies, the driver, fuel etc. and if if you put a front hitch kit of the tractor you will not have manuevering issues if you have chains atached to the trailer limiting its turning arc.

You would simply have the independent hydraulic pump and tank on the three point hitch and if need be you could load it on the trailer if it can be modified with a removable side board or two to allow easy towing with the drawbar of the tractor.

I understand what you are saying now. I think that idea would work for about 50% of the areas I do, but like I mentioned before a lot of my work is on rougher terrain or tight quarters, so a trailer would be out of the question there.

 

[leonz]

It will work for 100% of the areas if you secure the front corners of the
trailer hitch frame to the front hitch to keep it from from turning to easily. Its been done and I have done it with trailers that are very heavy or light as the chains limit the trailers ability to turn on its own and you will be able to locate the post driver on the rear of the trailer-if you mount it on the trailer tail gate it gives you a stable platform to work from and the PTO pump on the back will allow you to run hoses to the pounder and then disconnect them to move again if you are backing out to start driving posts in a another location.

 

[Verticaltrx]

I found online what looks to be a great little post driver so I thought I would update this thread and get some more input. What I found was a unit made in the UK called the Protech P30 contractor model. Unfortunately the website they have is pretty poor, and I don't think there are any dealers in North America.

It is a weighted hammer type, offset, post driver with full hydraulic tilt, offset, fore/aft movement, and hydraulic stabilizer leg. Can be outfitted with different weight drivers up to 400lbs. Looks like it is even set up on a B-series Kubota in the pics:

Website: PROTECH MACHINERY


Anyone have any more info on these? I'd like to know the overall weight, driving force, height etc. Doesn't it seem like it would put an awful lot of stress on the right side lower link when lifting it to move? Any North American dealers? Anyone have any other input on this?

 

[Rustyiron]

Kinda sounds like you answered your own question. I had a Shaver type and found that pounding at my old place in MD only worked when I drilled a 4" pilot hole with my skidsteer. There was a dealer in Fredneck MD that sold the Wheathart trailer post pounder and I think it had a pilot drill. It had a rack for carrying post around .. nice unit.

 

[Verticaltrx]

Kinda sounds like you answered your own question.

lol, yes and no. Still don't know of any dealers in the US...

 

[JimRB]

I used an old Shaver I borrowed from someone. I had to put new springs in it. I have JD870 which is a little 3,000 pound tractor with a 28 hp engine. I grab fluid from the loader control and returned fluid back into the fluid fill plug. First time I tried to pound the posts bounced going nowhere. After some rain and pointing the posts I seem to recall 3 minutes per post. Lots of english and most posts went in straight. Occasional field rock caused major deflection. Georgia red clay which is pretty hard when dry, butter when good and wet. Kind of scary process. I have seen better looking driver rigs at the big ag show in Moultrie but I had little interest as I already pounded my 4000 feet of fence.

 

[Mounted Madness]

Anyone use a Shaver HD-8 or Worksaver HPD-16 on a tractor this size? I think it would fit fine, just looking for some first hand experience.

Here's my experience with a postdriver on a BX24. I bought a Shaver HD8 two years ago, based on its weight and hydraulic flow requirements, figuring it would fit on my BX24. Since I had the backhoe on it, I concluded that it would handle the weight...basically plug and play.

At the time, I was very new to tractor ownership and operation and discovered that (according to advice I received from 2 hydraulic sources) I'd likely have to plumb the return line into my machines transmission, since there wasn't a seperate tank, and the normal return line wouldn't work properly.

I opted for an alternate (and more expensive) route. I had a hydraulics company fabricate a return tank, and added a hydraulic motor/pump onto/for the postdriver ram. I bought the postdriver for $1800 plus taxes, got it home and added $1600 plus taxes in fabrication.

Once I got the postdriver home, I discovered a variety of things.
1. On a BX24, the weight AND height of the unit increased the 'tippy' factor considerably. The center of gravity changed quite a bit and made operating the postdriver on anything other then unrutted pavement, a bravery test.

2. Due to the 3pt configuration and geometry of the BX24, it was a challenge driving a 10foot post perfectly straight. My helper is a fanatic for vertical and being on the bubble and was able to do quite well once he got used to the machine.:thumbsup:

3. It will drive a 10 footer without hesitation and worked like a charm...not easily configured and a pain in getting the post plumb, but time and effort overcame most issues. I had to re-do my fence posts, so we experimented with the unit. Due to the clay here, it was best to use 10 footers, and put them in 4 feet. None have moved, which is more then I can say for the neighbours traditionally installed posts.:thumbsup:

4. I traded the BX24 in Feb and now have a B3030HSDC. I am looking forward to seeing how the postdriver operates on this new tractor, both in performance, hook-up and the 'pucker' dynamics.

Being a newbie, I didn't know what questions to ask, and I wasn't overly familiar with TBN...you know, new tech and all that. I learned a lot, didn't listen to some advice, accepted other advice and concluded with my expenses doubling over all.

The postdriver does what it is supposed to do, very well with both 4inch and 6inch posts...though not too easily unless you have a tractor larger then a BX24...and maybe larger then a B3030. Following the hydraulics fabribation, I have had to modify some controls on the postdriver, again, more so then expected. On the other hand, I've (we've) put in 2-300 posts and it is a lot easier then an auger, set up, gravel/concrete, etc.:thumbsup:

Time will tell if the postdriver actually 'earns' its keep or if it just turned into another expensive and little used tool.

 

[niemeyjt]

You won't be happy. Without the pilot, it takes English to pound straight. I described the process. If you fence for a living, time is money. Buy the right device and get a vehicle to suit.

I can undertand most words in most variants of the English language, but this one has me baffled. Does it mean I can have a job helping with your fencing?

Seriously, another approach adopted by one manufacturer to stop posts going in askew is to use a tube: Postpuncher - the safest postdriver on the market - although their website is also not good at listing overseas dealers.

J

 

[Haywire]

I can understand most words in most variants of the English language, but this one has me baffled. Does it mean I can have a job helping with your fencing?

Actually it's english with a small 'e'....

a. The spin given to a propelled ball by striking it on one side or releasing it with a sharp twist.
b. Bodily movement in an effort to influence the movement of a propelled object; body english.