Compact sub compact?

[jjeff]

Heck... I can barely tell new fluid level on a dipstick, half the time. I'm always flipping the thing over to the smooth (non-hashed) side, and holding it in a reflective light, just to find the wet mark.

You could stop changing it on recommended pm schedule so it gets thick and black

 

[WinterDeere]

You could stop changing it on recommended pm schedule so it gets thick and black

Well, that's one of the problems. I change it yearly, but that's only ~100 hours here, so nothing ever has a chance to get very dirty.

 

[dodge man]

If you do much loader work you are going to want a ballast box or some other kind of ballast.

 

[jjeff]

Well, that's one of the problems. I change it yearly, but that's only ~100 hours here, so nothing ever has a chance to get very dirty.

Used to change my old used up kubotas yearly usually in fall or spring then realized how clean fluid always was, amount of hrs I was putting on them and cash I was spending on filters and fluids so i changed my pm schedule to once every 2-3 yrs both still running strong with no noticeable difference except my bank account . Still grease and check fluid levels every time before I'm going to use them though.

 

[WinterDeere]

Used to change my old used up kubotas yearly usually in fall or spring then realized how clean fluid always was, amount of hrs I was putting on them and cash I was spending on filters and fluids so i changed my pm schedule to once every 2-3 yrs both still running strong with no noticeable difference except my bank account . Still grease and check fluid levels every time before I'm going to use them though.

I probably could get away with less frequent, but it brings me peace of mind, makes me look over everything else at least once per year, and really isn't costing me much.

I was always told it was best to change oil at least 2x per year to flush out any corrosive combustion deposits that collect in the oil. I don't know if that's even applicable to diesel engines, or just gasoline, but I figure once per year is a reasonable compromise.

YMMV!

 

[jjeff]

If you do much loader work you are going to want a ballast box or some other kind of ballast.

Probably build something off my tph trailer mover attachment I made. Bought a cheap blank 1/4" qa plate welded a piece of square tubing on it with 7018 and a gusset, to take hitches and move my trailers up here pushing them. Instead of pulling with tph . Might get another cheap qa plate hopefully find a used 60" manually rotating ATv or sxs plow and configure a way to mount that securely on qa loader plate. Don't like doing much loader work on soil with the mower deck attached anyway, and it's definitely more involved removing and putting it back on than jd 1 series I was looking at.

 

[jjeff]

I probably could get away with less frequent, but it brings me peace of mind, makes me look over everything else at least once per year, and really isn't costing me much.

I was always told it was best to change oil at least 2x per year to flush out any corrosive combustion deposits that collect in the oil. I don't know if that's even applicable to diesel engines, or just gasoline, but I figure once per year is a reasonable compromise.

YMMV!

When I got my first old used Kubota I changed fluids and filters in it 2x a year. For peace of mind. I scratch my head wondering what I was thinking back then. Been told if I start my old tractors they should be ran long enough to get rid of the built up moisture in crankcase.

 

[WinterDeere]

Been told if I start my old tractors they should be ran long enough to get rid of the built up moisture in crankcase.

That's definitely a problem, here. With DPF, you don't exactly want to leave the thing indling uselessly in the driveway. But I'm frequently starting the tractor to just move one object, such as unloading two pallets off a truck yesterday, or even just to move it out of the way to access my mower. Run time might be 60 seconds or less, most times I start it.