pouring concrete in pole building

[mopower440]

Junkman, i was asking you what diameter rod, yes, you already told me grade 5 or 8, i was asking about the diameter, like 1/2 or 3/4 or whatever, and i didnt know if lowes was considered a hardware store or more of an industrial supply, but now i do..lol.., i getting to work to find the stuff now, thanks all!

 

[AndyM]

Industrial Supply, try McMaster-Carr and do a "find" for threaded rod on the left hand side. (I mean, on the left hand side of the computer screen. Don't look for left-hand threaded rod, because that's on there too!)

Another good source is Grainger.



Junkman, be nice. Don't make me come up there.

 

[Junkman]

I don't know what size the hole is going to be in the bracket that you are going to use and I don't know what size drill that you are going to use. As long as the hole is big enough to get the cement into it and the rod into the cement, that is what matters. It doesn't matter if there is 1/4" or 3/4" of cement around the piece of threaded rod! This is like asking how much salt do you want on your French fries. A lot or a little? Depends on who you are asking and who is doing the pouring. Some questions are better left unanswered! Now go shopping and start drilling. Those spring storms are getting closer and you are not getting any closer to getting this barn tied down, but you are getting closer to getting me tied down.

 

[moeh1]

I am all for saving money, but do the job right.
A couple more points for you in addition to the others stated.
I would not enclose the entire building if you can help it, it will make the cement delivery a nightmare. I will attach 2 photos to help in the impression. This is a 25 by 40' pour, 6 in thick, 4000 PSI fiber reinforced cement. The outer forms were all leveled with a transit and the center board visisble is a temporary screed support consisting of a 2x6 nailed to a 1/2inch pywood, you pull it out as you fill the second side. You can see the truck boom in one of these pics, if you enclose the building you loose this option. I would look at nailing some tarps on with some furring strips to prevent them tearing off if you need to keep the wind out. This si more effective than you think. This was 21 yards on 3 trucks, took a me and a 4 man volunteer crew almost 4 hours to complete ( 4 of 5 were cement experienced, all were hard workers!). Also note the plastic, acts as a vapor barrier, slows down the cement setting up and provides a slower stronger cure. The final thought is about wiring. The other post I will floow with has some provision for bringing wiring in and for consuit runs throughout the building. Better now than later.
If you get lots of hands and someone in charge for $100-200, and he has the finishing tools you'll be all set, otherwise I would defer to the professionals.

 

[moeh1]

other pic

 

[GerardC]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I would not enclose the entire building if you can help it, it will make the cement delivery a nightmare.)</font>

I don't totally agree.

 

[GerardC]

[quote

I also put up a 24 X 36 pole barn 2 years ago. The concrete work is very nice but that only because I hired it out. I'm not a concrete man and I know my limitations. That's one challenge that I'm glad I didn't take on myself. )</font>

I also have a pole barn. 28 x 40 (3 bay + workshop) with a 6" reinforced fiber slab with NO expansion joints.It was built in 6-2002 and the floor poured in 6-2003.This is the 1st. winter for the floor and so far found NO cracks.I had ALL work done by the pros,both were 3 men crew.(built and poured).I waited a year for settling before pouring and believe that makes a huge difference in the overall outcome of the project as a whole.I'll try to get some photos posted. )</font>

Moeh1,
Depending where you pour from. I had mine poured from the front of a 3 bay + workshop. The truck had an extension for the chute that reached in far enough to get close to the wall 28' back. He would just back up to keep the men going. The last thing to get done were the garage doors a few weeks later (not that they would have got in the way).

 

[mopower440]

alright guys, the best i could do with the threaded rod was grade 5, so i got it in 5/8, so, im guessing the holes need to be drilled with a 3/4 bit then since i got 5/8 rod? also found the 'L' brackets from simpson strong ties and HD was out of the anchoring cement but there is another HD right up from that one so i will check them tomorrow, I just hope this drill will make nice holes like i need and not break up the rock..let me know about the drill bit size guys and thanks for all this help!! It is much appreciated!

 

[Junkman]

Just got back from Spring Break..... 3/4" or 7/8" will work. If you have a choice, go with the 7/8" because it will give you a little more fudge factor and will not be any more difficult to drill. If you can't find the 7/8", then the next easiest size will be the 1" and that will work just fine. Don't worry about the cement holding. I put some in a paper cup and mixed it with a 12" piece of coaxial wire when doing something. There was about 1/2" of the cement at the bottom of the cup and I was unable to pull that piece of wire out of the cup no matter how hard that I tried. Now that fact that I can't pick up a quart bottle of milk has nothing to do with it either. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Guess that I have to send $5.00 to one member that made a bet with me that you wouldn't get the threaded rod today. You are making progress. At this rate, when do you think the first hole will be drilled? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[moeh1]

Gerard,
I can see from your pic, you could reach the back wall pretty well given the whole open side. My door ended up on one end, so I would have needed a 40' reach. Most of the trucks here refuse to carry extra lengths of chute with them for whatever reason they dreamed up, so we are stuck with about 16' -20' working reach from the truck. Also I have learned that being flexible (although not always being necessary) is never a bad idea. Mopower doesn't have a firm handle on what he is doing, so I hoped the suggestion would help - thats just the engineer in me /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif. The other issue I have seen before is that depending on the grade of the surrounding land - extra chute doesn't always help, but I didn't want to bombard him with too much at once. The last thing needed is a chance to show how much cement Mopower can wheelbarrow before his back gives out. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Mopower, you really need some advice from someone on the local scene who can do a quick look at your spot, and also find out what kind of equipment capability your local supplier has. The other item I didn't mention because I didn't include it in mine is water - both supply and drain(s). you need to think about these now if you want to make some provision for them.
Finally, one more tip - use it or not, I like to screw some big metal handles ( the good ones) on the top of the screed board, it makes it a lot easier to work it. One about 18" in from each end is fine. It sounds like you are in warmer climates, too bad you are not closer, I am bored for the next couple weekends until the snow melts /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif