Pouring Concrete-transport from truck to pour site

Boondox · Sep 24, 2003

Wow, I just did exactly that with my L3010! It went okay, but not as fast as I had expected. My slab was tiny -- just 9x16 -- and it took a lot more trips than anticipated. Still, it was much easier than using wheelbarrows! Some observations:

First, concrete is heavy! The front end really took a dip every time I got a load, and that was with the backhoe on for ballast. Hope you have some decent tires! Secondly, concrete is messy. Don't expect to be able to take full bucket loads. My bucket holds 1/2 yard, but I had to take much less to avoid leaving big splats all over the place. In the end each load was about 1/4 of a yard, maybe a little less until I figured out that raising the bucket to hood level let me carry more. But carrying it that high made me nervous! Thirdly, expect ruts unless you have enough room to make each trip on a slightly different route. One or two trips wasn't bad, but by the third trip I got some serious turf damage. I should have had some sort of lumber on hand to save the soft spots. Fourth: have someone guide you into position. I had to keep the bucket raised fairly high to avoid sloppage, and that cut my forward visibility into the drop zone to zero. Fifth: order a little more than you think you'll need, then add 10 percent to that. Better too much than too little. And have another small project that needs that extra concrete so you don't have to do the last minute "How do I use up that yard?" decision. Sixth: offer the delivery driver a hot cup of coffee or cocoa right up front. It's a PITA for him to dispense bucket loads at a time, so make him your friend and ensure his cooperation.

kn6md · Sep 24, 2003

I have recently had some concrete pours, and printed on the invoice is "Pour time allowed: 5 Minutes Per Yard". Having never planned to use any extra pour time, I don't know what the charge rate would be. You might want to check with your supplier to make sure no time limit exists.

Good luck,

Bill Vorhies

gmccarty · Sep 25, 2003

Last Saturday I poured a 30' x 40' 6" slab. Took 24 yards. I had the truck back up to the edge. Some observations:

1) Moving concrete from one spot to another is a lot of work. If you dump at one end, and have the fellows rake/shovel it around, they WILL get tired. If they were like the guys I had helping (normally sit at a desk), you might want a couple more helpers!

2) I ordered two 10 yard trucks and a metered truck (mix on site). When working out the timing, I was told the trucks would sit for an hour to an hour and a half. This was on a Saturday. Be sure to ask the concrete company what their policy is. A cup of coffee or $20 sitting fee might not be a bad idea.

3) A metered truck mixes what you need right on site. When I was figuring quantities before the metered truck idea, I was coming in around 27 yards - 24 yards using math, plus enough to cover one more inch of depth in case my rock wasn't level enough. Obviously, I saved a couple of hundred $ because of the metered truck. The downside to a metered truck is that the concrete mix is different. First, the rock size was smaller, and second, the sand was different (produced a different color mixture). We asked the truck operator if it was a 3000psi mix, and he assured us it was. We trusted him as he's been working with concrete a lot longer than us. Since I plan on painting the floor, I'm not worried about the color difference.

Hope this helps.

rlw · Sep 25, 2003

I recommend renting a powered concrete buggy. I did a quick search on the internet and found a 16 cu.ft. one listed on a rental site for 100 bucks/day. When I poured the footings for an outbuilding, the concrete guys used 2 of these to transfer 8 yards about 300 feet from the road - very fast.

I checked into a concrete pump prior to this pour as well. They are very expensive. A portable pump (not a big boom truck) started around $400-500 with operator. Plus you have to prime the pump, which will require a yard of grout. This grout will get dumped on the ground plus all the clean-out from the hose. Basically one heck of a mess!

dfeck · Sep 25, 2003

Thanks all for the input! My thoughts, I did more research and found out my bucket will hold 10.8 cu. ft. I figured I could safely carry 9 cu.ft which means 3 trips will equal 1 yard of concrete. In total 9 trips should take care of my pour. In my limited experience with pouring concrete I never pour a "sloppy" mix. Not to stiff and not too runny. I'm not sure exactly what the slope is but I don't expect to get much overspill. If any! I just spent the prior weekend digging out the area and removing fill and adding stone. I figured I made 12-14 trips across my lawn with minimal damage. I'm still learning towards using my tractor but I want to talk to a few "handy-men" to see if they could do it differently. If I decide to do it myself with a few friends then I'll post pictures of the pour.

Thanks,
Doug

dfeck · Sep 25, 2003

Bill,

In my area, they give us 20min per yard for pour time. After that, they charge you addition money. I've always been able to pour well within that time but that's been when the truck can pull right upto the site. This will be different and what I'll do is grease the skids first my asking the driver if he wants some coffee. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Doug

Soundguy · Sep 25, 2003

Just my .02.. but I don't think you are going to be satisfied making multiple trips to transport the concrete in your loader bucket.

Besides that guy is on a schedule... he's not going to be thrilled about waiting for you to make those 10-13 trips.. etc.

The plywood idea is great.. but you would go broke buying multiple sheets of it.. even if you rotated the sheets from front to back of the truck..

My guess would be the cheapest / easiest way is to get the truck over there on a dry day.. let him do his business, and get out of there... and then just fix the lawn. Your tractor racing up and down is goind to do a bit of damage as it is.. not to mention spilled clumps inthe grass for your mower to pick up and throw into a window or something.

I think this is your cheapest easiest way out.. concrete pump is a great idea.. but costly.

I doubt that he will rut up a good dry yard too badly.. and the crushed grass will stand back up if you give it some TLC afterwords.. like water and grooming.

Small ruts can be rolled out or driven down with precision using your tractor.. on your time and nickle..

Soundguy

RichNJKubota · Sep 25, 2003

Re: Pouring Concrete-transport from truck to pour

From my experience with concrete - I'd have the truck back up to the site and repair the lawn later. Make or get a concrete trough and support it on saw horses to get the concete from the truck to the back of the pour.

Rich

jpr62902 · Sep 25, 2003

I agree with Soundguy. Plus, you can get the concrete delivered in a mini mixer truck -- they don't weigh nearly as much and I think the truck time is cheaper too. I did the same thing a few years back -- ordered 3 yards of 4000 PSI, 6" slump and had him pull right up to the pour site. Cost me about $300.00. This was in May when the ground's still a little wet (especially in the morning) but my yard's pretty dense clay, so no damage done. Good luck. Oh yeah, don't forget the beer for your labor after they're done.

Currmudgeon · Sep 25, 2003

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It is cheaper to have too much than it itto run
out. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif )</font>

Roger that. An extra yard is cheap. An extra truckload, because you're a half yard short, is bloody expensive.

Have some "extra concrete" projects laid out. I'm going to build a paving stone mold. Maybe you need some blocks for counterweights or retaining wall blocks..