Pete, Rayster - here's another option to consider
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7852&catname=hydraulic
Pete made the comment about not being able to use
both at the same time, but here's my take on that -
1. Running wires from control area to bucket is a
darn sight easier than finding room for, and running without kinks in, hydraulic hoses - BTDT and am less than totally impressed.
2. For things like a grapple, or nearly anything
ELSE that will mount directly to the bucket, a selector valve isn't that big of a detrement - because if you grab something with the bucket pointing down, then let go of the button that chose the grapple,
the grapple won't let go - both grapple and bucket will just curl because the grapple circuit will be dead-headed while you're using the curl function.
3. Using selectors, you
don't need to mess with extra tank returns, PB, etc. - and the original valve control still gives you "feathering" of whichever function you're using at the time, even though the selector itself is on-off.
Costs aren't all that different - just different parts required.
I'm in the midst of a project for my old Case 580 (only thing I have with a FEL) that includes a 6' x 8' x 2' brush bucket (think full-size pickup bed that can go 12 feet in the air and self-dump) - a set of fairly heavy duty brush forks, and a Samurai hydraulic sickle bar -
I bought two of the above selector valves and a two button switch and will feed one selector with bucket curl hoses, default (no power) still feeds bucket curl - selector one feeds selector two, which gives me two "remotes" for two different cylinders to articulate the sickle bar.
Power for the hyd motor will come from
ANOTHER (manual) selector valve that'll mount on fender next to backhoe controls - default on that one keeps one of the stabilizers working, other position goes to a flow control and the sickle bar.
When I'm done, I'll be able to trim the sides of one of my (many) privacy hedges by driving along and having everything I cut falling into the large bucket - when full, drive to burn pile/compost pile area and dump (never leaving the tractor seat)
Hedge tops - unplug the 2" square tubing from hitch receivers welded to rear of loader bucket, rotate 90 degrees, plug back in - now I have horizontal swing to do tops. Cut and leave laying on hedge. Park brush bucket nearby - (designed so I can hook up/un-hook without leaving tractor seat), pick up brush forks, "comb" top of hedge, dump forks into brush bucket as necessary - drop forks, pick up bucket (about 2 full-size pickup loads more or less)
Far side of hedges that don't have enough room for tractor on both sides - one more "linkage change" (there will be 3-4 ways to arrange my "erector set" using hitch receivers and pivot points, with two small hydraulic cylinders running off the two electric selector valves) and I can reach
OVER THE TOP, down the other side, and trim the
BACKSIDE of the hedge. Unfortunately I've
NOT come up with a way (yet) to retrieve
THOSE clippings that doesn't involve
SWEAT 
The brush forks (about 300 pounds) are designed to fit
INSIDE the width of the brush BUCKET so I can take both to a more remote area (lower pasture with too many "weed trees" for example) in one trip. Get there, dump the forks on the ground, drop the brush bucket, pick up forks, pick up brush, dump in burn pile, repeat - Or, if the stuff to be picked up goes elsewhere, dump in brush bucket. All
without leaving the seat.
Sorry for the long post, my main points are
Things that seem limiting, may NOT be
There's more than one way to skin a cat if you analyze your specific situation
ONE of those ways may be easier, cheaper, quicker, or some of each... Steve
