Power Rake Build - 54"

[eCRX]

I started designing\modeling a power rake over the winter. (Got frustrated with sketchup so I purchased a student version of solidworks.)

A couple weeks ago I started the build.

It will be used by a GC2300 (22.5hp) and my brother-in-laws 26hp (L2650?) Kubota

some info:

• 54" x 6" sch40 main weapon
• Teeth - 1/4in AR400, tooth pattern/rake designed for lower hp (will be used on a GC2300 22.5hp and my brother-in-laws ?26hp? Kubota)
• Adjustable\Floating "Roll" on guide wheel assembly
• automotive rear wheel (thrust) bearing used on coast-side (typical flange bearing in chain case)
• removable 1-3/8 keyed shaft
• using 6" sch 40 for parts of the frame\chainbox.

most recent pic (drawn in solidworks)

older Sketchup pic showing some additional aperture\side-shield details not yet drawn in my SW model. Barrowed a 3PH model from the sketchup library and scaled it to proper specs.

so far I machined the 1/4" 'disks' that go inside of sch40 pipe and did some threading for the spinny part.

chain sprocket 'weld hub'.

Will show more details when I mill the keyways. (hopefully this goes smooth as this will be my first time milling a keyway on a shaft! )

Will have more updates periodically.

 

[Doorman63]

Pre keyed solid shafts can be ordered from garage door supply companies.
If you were close to Illinois I’d give you an 1-1/4” 10’ keyed shaft for free!

All your keys/sprockets/bearings can be ordered from Grainger/motion industries/etc. Taper lock sprockets are incredibly strong and easily changed.

 

[eCRX]

I think I'm a bit too far down the road to look into keyed shaft .

What is the purpose of a tapered lock bushing? Can I safely use it without a key or is it more to keep the sprocket from sliding axially?

 

[Doorman63]

I think I'm a bit too far down the road to look into keyed shaft .

What is the purpose of a tapered lock bushing? Can I safely use it without a key or is it more to keep the sprocket from sliding axially?

Not sure about the non keyed part.
Ours are always keyed. Because the bushing is split and clamps to the shaft as you tighten it, the load is spread across the entire bushing/shaft area. Axial play is practically eliminated. Removal to adjust location or change gear size is relatively easy.

 

[eCRX]

Finally ready to start welding. Everything so far was manually cut\milled\drilled\spun\sanded. I still need to make the side shields and top bar "aperture" stuff but the welder is looking lonely. Those are snowblower tires\rims if anyone was wondering, they are modified to be centered on a caster

The 'drum' is cut but didn't feeling like hauling into this pile. I should have the teeth (AR400) laser cut by the time it starts to resemble a power rake.

Pretty much maxing out my skill level every step of the way, no turning back now!

 

[MELEON]

Nice looking pile of parts! looks like you are off to a great start.

 

[ArlyA]

Neat project!

 

[eCRX]

Things are moving fast. Would greatly appreciate feedback from the welders on the forum.

GMAW feedback please

I'm building a power rake and don't have much welding experience. I'm maxing out my fabrication skills to be perfectly honest and most of the reason for building my own power rake is to learn how to weld. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/power-rake-build-54.467414/ Would...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[amhicks21]

I've got a suggestion concerning your tooth selection. One of my primary jobs for the past 15ish years is finish grading. I use an 80" ati preseeder most of the time that originally came with steel teeth similar to the ones you're considering. when new these teeth are 2" tall and have to be replaced once they wear down to 1/2". what I found is that when they're new they comb through dirt without pulling enough along and once they wear they have a hard time penetrating hard soil because the wear profile causes them to slide across the top of the ground. That sliding action causes the implement to bounce and causes a bunch of shock load to the drivetrain that wears things out. Over the years Ive had to replace every single moving part. so, what I did that absolutely solved every problem that I had was use 1 1/4" sharktooth carbides. You can see in this picture that i took about 7 years ago 2 sets of worn out steel teeth with the carbides welded in front of them. The steel teeth lasted 2 years each. 7 years later the carbides still look great and I haven't had to do any major repairs. At the time, I found those carbides for 3.50 a piece and there are 108 to replace. price looks like its probably a bit higher now but I promise its very worth it.

 

[eCRX]

amhicks21, i had no idea those existed, that's pretty neat!

I already spent money on the (AR400) teeth and my applications are fairly light duty, so it's too late for me. This method looks so much more appropriate than how the name-brand companies implement carbide teeth. I think they're just used to copying each other? If I get enough use out of the rake to wear out the teeth I'll at least of a good mount for them.