Power Trac vs 4wd Tractor

Gravy · Apr 30, 2006

Chad,

I've got really rocky soil (or maybe dirty rocks). If I didn't have the reversing valve, I'd likely have several permanently installed PHD augers as yard ornaments. The 6" auger is particularly adept at threading itself in between the rocks like a big woodscrew. I've learned to recognize when it's happening and back off on the pressure, but I'd still be uncomfortable without the reversing option.

I also plan to use the same valve for the winch, just as soon as I find that big bag of Round Tuits. I want to put quick-connects on both ends of all the hoses, each motor, and each valve, so it will all be modular and interchangeable.

The only PT improvement I've managed this weekend was reversing the stump grinder. I'd hoped to try the next phase of the filtration project, but spring weather is better for using a PT than for modifying it. (Gee, life is tough, ain't it /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

Dave ("Gravy" - short for "Gravy Davy", a mechanic's nickname that was more ironic than accurate) /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

MossRoad · May 1, 2006

When you say a large PT would handle a scrape blade are you thinking about the 425 or someting larger like a 1430/2430? 

I'm thinking the units that are larger than the 400 series. The 400 series are not very heavy, and therefore, it is much easier to spin the tires when you hook up an implement with the soil. I just cannot see how my PT425 could pull a scraper blade with any degree of success as compared to a larger, heavier model. A box blade is different because you can bust up the soil with the scarrifier teeth and then you are moving loose material. But a scraper blade is not busting up the soil first. It is a much tougher job and requires more brute force and traction than I think my Pt425 would have.

Again, it comes down to what chores you need to do most often and getting the tractor that can best do those chores.

farm23 · May 1, 2006

One of my primary requirements is to maintain a 1/4 mile of gravel road and keep the ditches clean. Depending on the weather I am going to the factory Wed or Thur this week.

I will give my impressions and PT's input after I get back.

farm23 · May 1, 2006

Just spoke to Scott at PT about a visit to factory this week.

Scott said the diesel series of tractors were air/oil cooled and do not have glow plugs. Has anyone had trouble with starting in the winter. It gets 0 deg here often and I will need the tractor to start to remove snow. The barn does not have electricty so it is unheated.

What has been the experience of you diesel owners when the temperature drops and you need to use your tractor.

MossRoad · May 1, 2006

I think there has been some discussion about this. Some diesel owners have purchased a device that goes in the air intake that preheats the air. You may want to do a search in the Power Trac forums for "glow AND plug" or "glowplug" and you will probably find the discussions. While the device is not a glow plug, it is referenced in those discussions.

Hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Spiffy · May 1, 2006

Duetz makes a neat engine, they are oil cooled. I do wish they had glow plugs, but you can get a manifold heating plug installed.

I tried my 45 once last fall at 30F before I had the plugs installed: it started, but not very willingly. I had it at 35 in the garage all winter, no problem. Now it's back outside, but with the heater coil, haven't had any trouble - but haven't been below perhaps 25F. I've also read that gently heating the intake with a blow torch works great instead of the heater, but haven't tried it.

As far as the box blade versus the scraper blade. If you are maintaining the roadway rather than shaping it, I think you'll be fine with a scraper blade. Except that I don't know how you'd angle it, the box would be more versatile; for litterally maintaning a road, I'd want an angled blade. PT makes a 6ft blade for the XX30, so I'd sure think it could manage a 4ft.

As JJ noted too, steady ground engaging stresses are better suited for conventional machines; however, as far as being able to handle a particular task, you have to look at weight and HP: a 4WD CUT will the same weight as a given HP PT will have a slight advantage on the larger rear tires (and the fact you can fill them), but the PT does a pretty good job of putting HP to the ground too.

BTW, I liked the engine sound of the 45HP better than the 30HP; that is a pretty lousy reason to compare the two, but I do think that a 1445 would get more HP in about the same footprint as a 35HP tractor.

If the orchard is the priority, I'd be leaning to the PT. Long and short, I don't see an obvious decision for you, but think you'll have fun trying the options! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

RegL · May 2, 2006

( Just spoke to Scott at PT about a visit to factory this week.

Scott said the diesel series of tractors were air/oil cooled and do not have glow plugs. Has anyone had trouble with starting in the winter. It gets 0 deg here often and I will need the tractor to start to remove snow. The barn does not have electricty so it is unheated.

What has been the experience of you diesel owners when the temperature drops and you need to use your tractor. )

I plow driveways for pay with the 1430 and it has not failed to start down to 10 below. When it's cold you have to crank it for a while before it fires up so you need battery in good shape. That little 2 cyl will start and run on 1 cyl for up to a minute before the other one kicks in. The hydraulics are a different story. Sometimes have to let it run for half an hour before I can move the tractor.

farm23 · May 3, 2006

Thank's to everyone who has given me their input.

I just came back from seeing Scott at PT and am convinced of the quality of the product. Scott was kind enough to give me a tilt meter to check out my land.

I found most of my land is 15 to 20 deg but a significant amount is 25 to 30 deg. Scott said the 425 was limited to 20 deg because of the engine. I now have to justify a 1430 which is ok to 30 deg. I really do not want to spend the extra $3000 fot the 1430.

Any input would be appreciated.

KentT · May 3, 2006

( I now have to justify a 1430 which is ok to 30 deg. I really do not want to spend the extra $3000 fot the 1430.

Any input would be appreciated. )
Only $3000? I thought the price difference was $6000 -- from $10K to $16K...

farm23 · May 3, 2006

Oh my!! You are right. It was $3000 extra for the 2425 and $6000 extra for the 1430. That does not help with my decision. I could buy all the attachment I want plus a tralier to carry everything for the extra $6000.

Does anyone have experience with running the 25 HP gas engine on 20 deg plus inclines?