Pressure switch on well PLEASE HELP!

[jgh]

20050202

Folks around here like the Pressure switches with the "low water cutout" safety lever. It prevents pump burnout if the well water level goes down too far. To get things started after the water comes back (or to check and see if that has happened after things come to a halt) you pull the switch lever up part the way (it's on the right as you view a Square D from the top, cover on) and let go when water pressure starts to build reasonably. It will cut you out again if that has not happened.

Both kinds versions were on that page URL'd from Grainger. FYI, I paid $20 or less last month when I bought one with the low cut, so don't assume Grainger is cheap. TSC did not have the low cut version nor did Southern States Co-op, recently.

As Rat said, be mindful of 208-240 v and many amps going thru that little box. I watched my neighbor (a pump and well guy then, now at Lowe's) get a little uppity with my box one day and pretty much melt his nut driver, not to mention a shower of sparks. And watch out for water, not a friend of open wiring. She's HOT.

Pls keep in mind that the wells I have are all deep (100 ft and down--almost said up /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif), so what works for you may be different.

I bought a hose bibb pressure meter in Tractor Supply, a few bucks, which should do it for now if you need to. The trick sometimes is finding the right bibb near enough to see while you tinker.

As a restaurant owner, I am pretty familiar with good ole NSF, National Sanitary Foundation. I believe one of the other posters was right when he said what that PVC was OK for was "drain and waste". To my knowledge CPVC is the potable water pipe material, not PVC. But the rest of you check me on that and everything else, too /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Good luck and hope you can get things in order,

Jim

 

[Westonium]

Yes, there are two separate switches. Why? Who knows. One may be faulty, or it was intended as a failsafe - beats me. The guy that did it is also the guy that would just install a new (crappy) valve in front or behind one that failed instead of removing the one that failed.

I didn't get a true picture of how they are wired, but they are definitely both wired to the pump.

I did notice that there were hot wires attached to screws VERY close to where I would have to adjust the springs. Fortunately there is a service switch there in the pump house I can throw, make the adjustment, and throw back on.

I think that the well is pretty well set for water. I would seriously doubt it will run dry anytime soon. I'll be building some cisterns this summer anyway so I don't use well water for irrigation and washing off the tractor and cars so much.

I'll try to get some pictures online tonight. They won't be up for at least 6 hours though.

I sure appreciate the advice and help!

 

[Westonium]

Pictures requested, pictures delivered. Pic #1

You can see the pump, the union connecting the pump to the main, the anti-siphon valve, various "anti freeze wires (nonfunctional I think), and a lovely black cable draped carelessly going to the pump.

It is a *3 HP* pump (told you I thought it was beefy) and uses 14.5 amps at 230V. A lot of juice carelessly hanging there. It scares the **** out of me and I think I'll have that in armored conduit real soon.

 

[Westonium]

This shows the service breaker (lower right), the pump controller (above the service breaker), what I assume is a hammer arrestor (the blue tank), 2 pressure switches, and a non-functioning pressure gauge.

 

[Westonium]

Naked pressure switch #1 closeup (this is the lower one that looks like it is wired in series to the other one).

I adjusted this one, and it has alleviated the pressure a fair bit. I was going to blow a water heater or something soon if I didn't try something.

 

[Westonium]

naked pressure switch #1 side view of springs (I adjusted these out a bit).

Not very scientific, but I will do a better job this weekend.

 

[Westonium]

Naked pressure switch #2 side view. There appears to be an adjusting screw to widen or narrow the working pressure range. I adjusted the top nut out (up) a bit too. I don't think this did anything though since it was the other switch that kicked on the pump. You can hear the pressure build up towards the end of the run. There is a lot of water above this pumphouse (in the main, in the house etc).

 

[Westonium]

Naked pressure switch # 2 top view. Like I mentioned - don't really think this thing does much. Maybe it acts as a backup - I'd love opinions or advice on that. Seems odd.

 

[tc35dforme]

So the switches are down at the pumphouse, not at the house-house ??? About 100' lower than your house ???

Are the two switches wired in series..wire from one goes to the second then to the pump motor box ???

You also have an 80 gallon well tank at the house correct ???

 

[Egon]

I would think the second switch is in series with the first one. It may affect low pressure or high pressure, don't know which.

As others have mentioned perhaps try a new pressure switch and change the piping to accomadate a gauge.

Suggest wearing rubber boots with two layers of socks, rubber gloves inside leather ones and use a voltmeter to check for power if you do any work on the system or even do some adjustments. The errant heat tape lying around doesn't impress me.

The whole system looks like it could use an upgraded piping and electrical system.

A certified plummer and electrician may be in order to get it all up to snuff. That would be my recomendation as the present system seems like a haphazard installation. Electricity and water together can make for interesting happenings. Exspecially with the heat tape laying around.

Best of luck and be carefull.

Egon