Price Check DK45Se HST

[RJJR]

Ok folks, if you've been following my thread you'll know that I've been comparing the DK40SE to the Grand L 3940 an looking quotes on the 40. But today I had an interesting conversation with my local dealer. He doesn't have a DK40 on the lot but did have a DK45HST that is a current year but is pre-the April price increase so it's been on the lot 3-6 months.
He offerd me the tractor at 24,500 but with a $3500 rebate unitl June 30th which makes the tractor 21K plus tax. That's a cash or financed price but the finance price is at 5.4% not 0%. This is with the 401 loader, front brush guard (may be standard) and R4 tires.

Seem fair?
Thanks

 

[Reg]

Fair.

Maybe Fair Plus.

 

[tnewbern]

So you get 3 HP for free by taking the tractor on the lot. Sounds like a good deal.

By the way the pricing I sent you was for the 0% finacning. It would have been almost $5,000 less at the time for cash. If you are not paying cash take the 0% you will make out better in the long run. If you get Kioti financing you can get insurance to cover your tractor on or off property for a couple of bucks a month. If you don't most finacne companies will require you to provide proof of insurance. Oh and your home owners does not cover your tractor to thier satisfaction.

So you never responded to the big question. Which tractor did you like better? I am assuming from all the activity on the Kioti form its the DK. Don't hold back give us the like and dislikes of both. Who knows mabye you will pay it forward to the next guy in your shoes.

 

[ecruzin]

Sound like your getting closer to a good deal. If your getting it with a loader, you definately want the dealer to load the rear tires for you.

 

[tnewbern]

Loaded tires are good for traction not loader ballast. Putting the weight at the rear tires just transfers the load to the front axle. These tractors have almost all the traction you will ever need. Do youself and your tractor a favor and buy a ballast box or use a suitable 3pt implement for heavy loader work. Not to mention the safety issues of handling loaded tires when you have a problem or need service.

While on the subject of tires I would suggest you have the dealer set the rear wheel spacing to the max. It really adds stability and gives the tractor a great stance. You can do this yourself as did I but not with loaded tires. Those rear wheels are big and heavy stock I could not imagine handling one with several hundred pounds of liquid.

Sorry ecruzin I am not attacking you just trying to provide useful information. To many of us are lead to believe filled tires are the answer to heavy loader work. I know I was before I was corrected.

 

[DK35vince]

Loaded tires make a big differance for ballast.
When I first got my tractor the rear tires were not loaded.
The tractor was tippy and unstabale doing loader work on anything but a perfectly flat surface.
I loaded the rear tires and the differance was huge. Much, Much more stable.
I can go places now with a heaping loader bucketfull that I would have never tryed to go with unloaded rear tires.

 

[RJJR]

I appreciate the informatin on the whell spacing. Not sure what to do on the tires. Dealer offered to put a water antifreeze mix in for $150. I was considering it primarily for the times I run a small bottom plow to turn garden spots or food plots, etc. Can I get the traction I need without filling the tiers for that kind of work. It will not be the primary work but it is one reasin I'm buying the tractor so I don't want to hook up to a plow and then spin the tires. They are R4 by the way.

I understand the counter ballast issue. I drove it today with no ballast and it hopped and drove pretty bad with only the loader up front. Drove another without and it felt goo. I'd rather buy an implemetn than a ballast box. Is there a good medium duty 6" bush hog that will serve this purpose? The book says it has to be 1048 lbs. thanks.

 

[k0ua]

I appreciate the informatin on the whell spacing. Not sure what to do on the tires. Dealer offered to put a water antifreeze mix in for $150. I was considering it primarily for the times I run a small bottom plow to turn garden spots or food plots, etc. Can I get the traction I need without filling the tiers for that kind of work. It will not be the primary work but it is one reasin I'm buying the tractor so I don't want to hook up to a plow and then spin the tires. They are R4 by the way.

I understand the counter ballast issue. I drove it today with no ballast and it hopped and drove pretty bad with only the loader up front. Drove another without and it felt goo. I'd rather buy an implemetn than a ballast box. Is there a good medium duty 6" bush hog that will serve this purpose? The book says it has to be 1048 lbs. thanks.

I have both ballast barrel and loaded tires, and recommend both, here is why I think that way, When mowing with the rotary cutter, the loaded tires really help on the slopes we have here. When doing loader work, well the loaded tires help keep the rear on the ground, and so does the homemade ballast barrel. It makes loader work fun not scarey!. Now as to the ballast box vs. the useful implement. Well you need to decide, but consider this, Where I live I work around a lot of trees, and some buildings, and for instance my rear rotary cutter sticks out a lot compared to my ballast barrel. And it is a pain to keep from hitting trees while turning or backing. If you work in more open fields, then this would be less of a factor. Others will say my ballast barrel is "useless" well I would beg to differ, It is helping keep my tractor "shiny side up" and I keep all my handle tools and chains and water, etc in the top of it!
So if you want to buy an implement instead of a ballast box, then cool, but just be aware of the differences and decide which is best for you and your operating conditions. Regards

James K0UA

 

[tnewbern]

Well the 1048 lbs is for full lift capacity. I can't imagine you running out of traction with the proper tires on these machines. If you do load the tires use RimGuard its much heavier per pound and safe to use.

I am not saying that loaded tires don't help. It will make a big difference on the feel but you don't relize how much strain it puts on your front axle. With weight added at the rear tires the front axle is the fulcrum. With the weight rear of the tires load is transfered from the front axle to the rear axle and weight is properly distributed.

Don't take my word for it search the forum. Its a heated topic and in the end you need to make you own choice. I know I was dead set on loading the tire until I was informed. I also questioned and went searching and very glad I did.

 

[ecruzin]

tnewbern; no offense taken. I'm no expert by any means, but all the dealers recommended loaded tires when I bought mine. I shopped numerous used as well as new JD, TYM, Kubota, New Holland and Kioti. I am in the Shenadoah valley so I do have some elevation change on the property. Maybe that had something to do with the loaded tire recommendations. Traction has never been an issue. I also normally keep a 5 ft King Kutter bush hog on the 3 pt. Bottom line is that he gets the best deal possible on the tractor (or more tractor) than he needs. I know my DK45SE is more than I'll ever need but it sure is nice to have it!!!