Probably IP Gear (Control Sleeve) Failure

[countrybumpkin]

He's referring to the hood hold gas cylinder, not the loader hydraulic cylinders.

Read the first line again, he knows he has the loader off, he was telling him this for future reference.

 

[Coyote machine]

Read the first line again, he knows he has the loader off, he was telling him this for future reference.

No Need, but thanks for telling me what I already read and knew anyway. :confused2:

 

[countrybumpkin]

Say what you want.

 

[LouNY]

My current quandary is: should I (1) try to do the work in the lean-to shed with the loader on, (2) try to get the loader off (but I don't have a hard level spot), or (3) raise the loader full up and prop it against a tree to get it out of the way? I think I can get the engine to run enough to do #2 and #3.

From the OP's , post #1, he was wondering about taking the loader off or working under it.

So, yes say what you want but read before you say
Not the hood hold cylinder strut
:irked:

 

[countrybumpkin]

Now back to the repair.

I had to reuse the intake gasket on the one I did but if it were me I’d replace it. Removal of the pump is pretty straight forward, no timing issues to keep track of or anything, you could actually crank the engine over with the injection pump removed and not mess the timing up, no reason to crank it over though. The most important part is to keep all parts of each plunger together, don’t mix parts of one plunger with another plunger.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Here is a write up of a repair.

IP Removal

 

[ritcheyvs]

Thanks all for your continuing help.

I expect the IP parts to arrive today or Monday. The tractor is parked under a tin-roof lean-to because we expect rain starting Monday.

I ordered an intake gasket from MIE; waiting for that gasket that may delay reassembly. I also ordered a loader leg foot to replace one that went missing. For now, I put a steel plate under that leg so it wouldn't punch through the plywood. I just wish I ordered both parts at the same time as MIE charges about $17 per order for shipping; my bad, not theirs. I noticed that several of my old links for mail order Kioti parts no longer work. I wonder if Kioti ever replaced the dealers they lost? I don't mind saying that I was quite upset when my nearby Kioti dealer lost his franchise.

While I have the loader off I plan to mount the diverter valve I got from Brian. I didn't have space to do this jobs with the loader mounted. Then it will just be a matter of ordering hoses and running wires.

Thanks for the tip on using angle iron as a safety for a raised loader. Not a factor for this job now but it will make future routine maintenance much safer.

On this particular DK45s model there is a gas strut (like on some auto hatches) that helps lift the hood and hold it in the up position. The bottom pivot for this strut is a bracket that's bolted to the intake manifold. So I need to support the hood another way to remove the manifold. My tentative plan is to loop a piece of rope through the holes in the sides of the hood and tie it back to the roll bar. Hood removal is probably better but I don't think I can manage that solo. I envy the guys with hoists.

I'll take photos along the way but don't expect anything to rival the excellent Neches write up.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Status Report: I removed the IP today and took photos along the way. I visually confirmed that the #4 control sleeve gear is missing teeth. I'll rebuild the IP tonight or tomorrow. The intake manifold gasket tore so I'm glad I ordered a new one. The oil fill plate gasket tore but I'll live with it or make one DIY. The biggest problem was getting one of the stop solenoid screws lose. All the other screws were still under original paint and came lose easily. That SS nut rounded off and I had to chisel it lose (need to replace that nut). On the flip side that same paint on the injector lines made the flare nuts hard to remove; (binding on paint).

I owe many thanks to countrybumpkin and thepumpguysc for information and advice that probably prevented screwups on my part.

 

[Coyote machine]

From the OP's , post #1, he was wondering about taking the loader off or working under it.

So, yes say what you want but read before you say
Not the hood hold cylinder strut
:irked:

Wrong again, sorry to point it out but you seem to insist you're right, when you're actually late to the game. The OP had already dealt with and queried about the loader dilemma, in his first post. He decided to remove it. He did so- then you came in with your, described as 'future reference' solution, (by Bumkin), after the fact.

Ritchyvs later mentioned the hood hold strut being attached to the intake manifold, Here: Post #8" I am working alone and I think the hood is too heavy/awkward for me to remove/install it by myself. But I think I can just tie it to the roll bar with piece of rope to hold it out of the way. The intake manifold is also the support for the gas strut that holds the hood up so I'll have to either remove or support the hood before I can remove the intake manifold.

He also queried about whether or not to replace the intake gasket, which I suggested he do - having had years of experience dealing with baked on gaskets, when I owned my foreign auto repair and sales shop. That's what I was referring" to; he was no longer concerned about the loader- all but you, and Bumkin had moved on to the later post about the hood and intake, etc. In fact he, the OP refers to the hood strut once again being a concern since he's working alone and has to manage heavy objects like the hood by himself in post #17. NOW we can all return to the repair - which encompasses solving all issues of disassembly and reassembly to completion.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Oh my gosh will you drop it, your the one making the big deal out of it. He stated in his original post about securing the loader was for future reference because he knew OP had already had the loader removed !!!