Problems connecting flat-face connectors

eddie48 · Apr 17, 2014

Is there a tool that will allow me to relieve the pressure in the connectors so I can hook up my grapple without having to first loosen up the connector from the hose? I'm getting awful tired of having to have a couple of wrenches in hand every time I want to change the bucket to the grapple. BTW I have tried relieving the pressure by moving the control lever back and forth with the tractor shut off. The pressure buildup seems to be in the attachment, not in the tractor hoses.

J_J · Apr 17, 2014

Yes, the build up is probably in the attachment cause by heat.

Flat faced connectors are difficult, but if you use a wood or brass dowel and tap the center part of the QD, that should relieve the pressure. Use a rag over the QD.

You could also install a tee and needle valve on the attachment or use a dummy QD half, so the pressure never builds up. You could screw in a short piece of PVC into the QD and stuff it with rags to absorb any leakage.

Ed L · Apr 17, 2014

My guess is you are moving or mounting the attachment before connecting the hoses, it doesn't take much to put pressure on a connector.

Close the grapple and let all pressure off before unhooking the hoses, is usually all it takes. The other option is to couple the hoses together before you unhook.

Ed

k0ua · Apr 17, 2014

Just some thoughts, I don't have flat face couplers, I have 1/2 inch AG's but this is how it works for me:
I have a male and female each on my grapple hoses. In this manner I hook them together when I store it, as there is less chance of contamination and I don't have to mess with caps on the implement.

So before I put it away, I hook them together and then immediately unhook them so that they "puke" a slight amount of fluid out, then I hook them together for the final time. This allows for a deficit of fluid in the hoses so if they heat up there should be less pressure in the hose system. I have never had to "crack" a fitting to get them hooked up. I realize the flat face have less "puke" factor so this may not work for you, and you may not have both sexes of connectors on your hoses. I am just offering up what works for me.

Another idea is to have a short 1 foot hose with the proper *** and type of connectors on each end to put in series with your two hoses. Put it on immediately as you take them off of the machine. The hose will be empty but some fluid from the grapple hoses will flow into this empty hose segment. This will also keep you connectors clean. As your grapple will now never build up much of any pressure as it has the empty hose to fill. Every once in a while you will need to drain your connector hose as it will eventually fill with expanded fluid from the grapple.

These ideas are free, and worth every penny you paid for them

FatTire · Apr 17, 2014

I have the same problems with Parker Flat Face. I think the fact they don't leak much makes it worse. After I disconnect my plow (the only thing I have that uses the flat faced couplers) if I walk by on a cold morning I will plug/unplug a couple of times to let a few more drops out. This is easy if it is significantly colder than when you last disconnected the couplers, and after you do bleed a few extra drops it will be easy even on a hot day.

eddie48 · Apr 17, 2014

Some good ideas. Thanks for taking the time to answer. I have tried most of them but not with much success. The idea of pushing in on the seal with a rod is good but I haven't figured how to hold the fitting, the rod and a hammer with only two hands.

I think I may try to build something like pliers to hold the fitting in one jaw and push in the seal with the other.

whis · Apr 17, 2014

swap fittings to ag style

jmc · Apr 18, 2014

I think fluid gets trapped between the tractor connectors and the tractor valve. Then, while technically there is no pressure after relieving per owners manual, the fact that a "piston" component of the connector needs to compress that trapped volume makes it hard to connect. What usually works for me is to turn the engine off after depressurizing but leave the ignition switch on* and then hold the valve open while connecting. The fluid is then no longer trapped. What was before almost impossible would then connect very easily.

What's not easy is holding the valve open from 4 feet away. An assistant, bunge cord, or a c-clamp.

*my valves are electric/hydraulic

If I were someone like Waxman or 4shorts, I'd mount an electric switch up by the connectors to hold the valve open.

J_J · Apr 18, 2014

eddie48 said:
Some good ideas. Thanks for taking the time to answer. I have tried most of them but not with much success. The idea of pushing in on the seal with a rod is good but I haven't figured how to hold the fitting, the rod and a hammer with only two hands. I think I may try to build something like pliers to hold the fitting in one jaw and push in the seal with the other.

You put the barrel in the palm of your hand and use thumb and fingers to hold the dowel and then tap the dowel.

Scooby074 · Apr 18, 2014

There was a guy/company making a flat faced connector tool. Will post if I find it

Browneyesvictim · Apr 18, 2014

There are a lot of different styles of quick couplers for different applications. They all suffer from the same symptom you describe getting them re-attached when fluid pressure is trapped on one side or the other of the fittings. There is one specific type that is "supposed" to be able to overcome this that is designed to be coupled/un-coupled under pressure. WP77196 High Pressure Coupler Set - Grainger Industrial Supply
This type has a threaded collar (versus the pull-type) on the female side that you can use to thread on the male end forcing the internal ball checks to unseat. In my experience with these type of couplers it is still difficult if there is A LOT of pressure there. But for a few hundred psi of residual pressure should work perfect. Just make sure that the threaded collar is seated completely on to the male end to ensure they are connected fully and properly! (Don't ask me how I know)

eddie48 · Apr 18, 2014

J_J said:
You put the barrel in the palm of your hand and use thumb and fingers to hold the dowel and then tap the dowel.

Note to self: Hold the sides of the dowel, not the end. Doesn't hurt as much

Actually, it is going to take more than a tap, but I will try as you suggest. Just didn't think I could hit it hard enough while holding everything. Thanks

J_J · Apr 18, 2014

Most flat faced couplers are supposed to connect under pressure.

Parker Snap-tite

74 Series
Flush Face, Dry Break, ISO 16028 Interchange, Hydraulic Quick Connect/Disconnect Hose Couplings
ISO 16028 Interchange Connect under Pressure Capability available in 1/2" size 3/8" also meets HTMA specifications Push-to-connect design Available in Sizes 1/4" thru 1" Working Pressures to 4,568 psi (315 bar) Steel Construction Optional Safety Sleevelock

Browneyesvictim · Apr 18, 2014

"Supposed to" is right... maybe with enough lead in my shorts to push that hard against the pressure. That's the beauty of the threaded collar type... you get the mechanical advantage. You can even use a tool to get more if you need it. But hey... the tapping on it thing works too but is also messy and not really that safe

jenkinsph · Apr 18, 2014

When my connectors won't fit up I double up a thick rag over them and tap them with a ball pein hammer. The rag reduces the fluid danger, the oil mess and cushions the hammer blow. So far in nine years it hasn't deformed the flat face connectors either.

GPintheMitten · May 29, 2014

I don't know whether my quick connectors are flat or not. Please see picture.

I can't get them connected. Blast it!

This is on a Kubota B2620 and Kubota BH6500 backhoe. I got the tractor quick connects from Kubota to plumb a used BH6500. There should just be air in the tractor side, and fluid on the backhoe side. I've wiggled all the levers on the backhoe.

They sure look like matching hardware.

Here's a pic showing them after I attempted to connect.

aczlan · May 29, 2014

Put a rag over the male end, then push it against the ROPS, does the piece sticking out on the end go in?
Put a dowel into the female side and see if you can push in the matching center piece on that one.

Aaron Z

GPintheMitten · May 29, 2014

Thanks Aaron. I did something similar and got them connected. I just came back to the house to post success. Yay.

J_J · May 29, 2014

Flat face QD don't have any protrusions, so you have to push in or tap the dowel on the Male QD center.

A rounded bolt head or a rivet head will also work.

Last resort is to cover the QD with a rag and loosen the QD from the hose.

lostcreekranch · May 30, 2014

Looks like a good solution. Anyone bought one of these?

http://www.farmshow.com/a_download_page.php?aid=MTg2NTk=

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