Problems getting Yanmar tractor running.

[winston1]

I'm still leaning toward the rack being stuck or possibly plungers but since they are pumping a tiny bit I doubt that.

 

[Neat 1500]

Has that model got an electric fuel shutoff? could be the culprit.

 

[deepNdirt]

Have you been able to verify that any amount of fuel is getting into the cylinders? a slight bit of smoke from the exhaust perhaps?
Now that you have eliminated the components from the fuel filter up, perhaps you should try back tracking from the cylinders back, being sure you have good compresion in the holes, It seems like it's lacking fuel delivery and you may be right on the spot with checking out the injectors, But I'd want to see if it could combust fuel, something besides starting fluid of course, Ive not done this myself but have been told that WD-40 can burn and is not harmful to the engine,
In the video the engine turns over very quickly when the comp. release is open, how would you say it turns over when closed? does it choke at all? or still a consistant wind over?

I just read back through the post and seen Car Doc and carey has already advised the same thing, got to be certain the cylinders have good compression,:thumbsup:

 

[Car Doc]

The only thing that I can add at this point is I see a lot of hoses! What I mean is there is 3 at the fuel bowl alone and there is another round housing that's I presume either a transfer pump or another filter, is anything misrouted maybe or leaking air I dont see any clamps?

I wish I could offer a more definitive solution but thanks for the new pics it should help someone help you I hope.

edit: I wonder if that round housing happens to be a fuel heater it would have coolant running thru it somewhere probably the rear?

 

[clemsonfor]

supposedly the new wd40 is not good, the old version had a different base or lube or something and could be used but something about thenew one is not good.

How come you cant put deisel in a squirt bottle and mist it into the intake? I do this on 2 stroke outboards all the time to diagnose starting/ignition issues, i know gas is way more flamable than deisel but i would think if you mist it then have decent compression it will light off??

 

[deepNdirt]

supposedly the new wd40 is not good, the old version had a different base or lube or something and could be used but something about the new one is not good.

Hmmm... yup! your correct clemsonfor, my research shows wd40 had
25%: Liquified petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant
Carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)

 

[Car Doc]

We used wd when I worked at Gm dealers in the early 80's to start 5.7 diesels and 6.2's it worked great then, those motors would fly apart pretty easy with ether also. Haven't tried it that I remember lately but that's what I understand also from this site the recipe is different oh well.

As far as getting some oil in that engine to oil the rings up. I see the intake opening is almost ideal for some spray oil since we are on the topic. I would spray some penetrating oil in while its cranking w/comp release pulled. Now that's me and what I would do someone else may have a different idea though. It also may just fire on it so be advised of that now.

 

[Sharkhunter]

Has that model got an electric fuel shutoff? could be the culprit.

^^^^This is what the problem was. There is a lever on the backside of the IP that was connected to a solenoid. I disconnected the linkage from the lever, and she fired right up. I had thought the lever was some type of governor, and didn't pursue that as a problem until you said that about the fuel shut-off. THANKS!! :thumbsup:

Now...on to the next problem. After it started I could hear a pretty noticeable knock. I let it idle for a couple of minutes and it completely went away. I let it idle a good 10 minutes. I then threw it in gear and drove it around the property while slowly bumping up the throttle every minute or 2. It seemed to be running pretty good. Then the knock came back when I had it at about 3/4 throttle. Black smoke poured from the exhaust and I shut it down. Popped the hood to find LOTS of oil blew out the breather. :banghead:

I thought maybe if I'm lucky the rings just needed time to re seat so I de-greased everything. Checked the oil level and found it was overfull and very watery. Not a good sign, although it didn't smell like diesel. I went ahead and drained the pan and filled it with fresh oil. Restarted it and it sounded fine. I bumped the throttle up a few rpms a little at a time with the tractor just sitting. At about half throttle, the knock came back and she was again blowing dark black out the exhaust. No more oil came out the breather. I just went ahead and shut it down. I'm guessing as others had mentioned that I may have some damage from the starting fluid. It will run fine without any knock until it gets some rpms going, then the knock starts and won't go away even at idle unless the machine sits for a few minutes before a re-start.

edit...I've had it running for 30 minutes just a little faster than idle with a heavy dose of injector cleaner added to the fuel. It sounds perfect with no visible smoke. It is firing on all 3 cylinders. Breaking loose each of the 3 lines at the injectors bring the rpms down equally.

 

[winston1]

Maybe it has healed itself.

 

[clemsonfor]

yanmars have a distinct fuel know although this is a 3cyl and there not as noticeable. I think that may have been fuel knock though either from overfueling or incomplete injection?

 

[Car Doc]

Good she runs now I think you are on the right track getting some injector cleaner thru it. Id keep using it fact I personally recommend Power Service fuel additive. I run gray bottle in every tank @ double strength it has the most cetane boost (helps knock) and injector lube. good luck

Oh and I would put some clamps on all those hoses sooner or later that will bite you.

 

[Sharkhunter]

It may be running, but something is very wrong. Tractor runs great at idle, but under any load at all including just driving it, it knocks bad and blows a combination of heavy black and white smoke. The knock always coincides with the smoke. It doesn't run hot. What research I've done online seems to point to some head damage. Possibly the swirl chambers? Any suggestion what I should do next? I also learned that I'm the 3rd person to work on this tractor, and the prior 2 guys both used ether in an attempt to get the thing running.

 

[Car Doc]

Sounds like over fuel do you have a diesel pump shop handy? If so have the injectors pop tested and rebuilt as necessary.

 

[Sharkhunter]

Sounds like over fuel do you have a diesel pump shop handy? If so have the injectors pop tested and rebuilt as necessary.

I don't have anyone local that I'm aware of. If you or someone else knows of a good reliable shop, I could probably just mail them the parts. Thanks Car Doc.

 

[California]

Find a shop that maintains big over-the-road diesels, or farm diesels if you are in an ag area. Or since you are in Florida, maybe a boat shop? They can refer you to an injector and pump shop.

 

[clemsonfor]

What california said. These small yanmars were put into boats. There are many of these little yanmars even 1 cyl versions in sail boats.

Do these heads even have a "swirl chamber" the pics of them i have seen they look pretty basic and flat to me? Not a head guy or even a pro mecanic but can figure things out though.

Not sure how much time you want to put into it but these heads look and are very easy to pull. You can pull it to rule out the head or valve damage or rings for the price of a new head gasket and a few hours labor.

 

[Car Doc]

Ok here is something that came to mind for me. Could you run the engine at the rpm its acting up and if so crack an injector at a time you may find the one(s) that is acting up and go from there?

I also am wondering about the coolant overflow bottle any big bubbles when its first started or anytime its running?

 

[medic0648]

Make sure you have a good torque wrench if you pull the head. They hav to be torkued to the 225-230ft lb range on a lot of them.

 

[Sharkhunter]

I started the tractor up last night to try what Car Doc had suggested about breaking the bleeders loose while the engine was acting up. I hadn't had a chance to start it or try anything else since Sunday afternoon. She started right up and actually seemed to be running pretty decent. I decided to take it on a quick run around the yard. I was able to run it wot and didn't have that billowing smoke like I did last time I ran it. I drove it for a good half hour and the only times it's smoking now is upon acceleration. The knocking was minimal and would only do it at low rpms. Even then, it didn't last more than a few seconds.

All I can figure is that the injector cleaner must have done some good sitting in the injectors and/or injector pump for a few days. I know mechanical problems don't heal themselves. I called my neighbor who owns the tractor to come over and have a look. I gave him the option of having me pull the injectors to get them rebuilt, or to just take the tractor home and run it. He opted to take it to see what happens. The fact that it improved about 80% since the last time it ran without turning a wrench on it and just sitting leads me to believe that it might just clear up on it's own. I told him to top off the half full tank and put a double or triple dose of cleaner in the fuel. Keeping my fingers crossed.

A BIG thanks to all of you guys who have helped me out with this thing. :thumbsup:

 

[Car Doc]

Its amazing what the right stuff getting to the right spot will do I hope its all better now! :thumbsup: