Problems on home built FEL

   / Problems on home built FEL
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Hey Gary, like another member said add a line where u installed the return to go fuller into the trans. This should stop the leak and cut down on the air bubbles which is not good to have in the oil.

I guess I will have to make a new piece that is longer. I thought about just threading the inside and screwing an extension on it but the idea of it coming out and falling into the tranny is a little unnerving. I'm sure there are ways to lock the threads against that but it would always be on my mind that it could happen. I'll let everyone know if that cures the problem.

Thanks guy's for the suggestions.
 
   / Problems on home built FEL #12  
Gary,

That link I gave you may not be the best place to buy the valve, I used it only for the picture and description......there are other brands out there just get the type that is adjustable in one direction and unrestricted in the other.....don't be confused with a normal needle valve (restricted in both directions)......they are available in whatever size your hoses are (1/4", 3/8"ect)..........:)
 
   / Problems on home built FEL #13  
Gary,

That link I gave you may not be the best place to buy the valve, I used it only for the picture and description......there are other brands out there just get the type that is adjustable in one direction and unrestricted in the other.....don't be confused with a normal needle valve (restricted in both directions)......they are available in whatever size your hoses are (1/4", 3/8"ect)..........:)

Here's one for about half the dough - I think it's the same:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-5300-38&catname=

JayC
 
   / Problems on home built FEL
  • Thread Starter
#14  
   / Problems on home built FEL #15  
Just use the same size approx as your hose coming out of your work port from the valve
 
   / Problems on home built FEL
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Just use the same size approx as your hose coming out of your work port from the valve

Thanks, I'm ordering one today and should have it around the middle of next week. I'll let you know if that solves the problem.
 
   / Problems on home built FEL
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Ok, I found something else I am not sure about.

With a full bucket of damp dirt, the gauge shows 750 -800 lbs pressure max. The 3 pt with a 4' bush hog shows about 800 lbs lifted all the way up. The loader relief valve is set from the factory at 2200 lbs. Should I lower this reading to something closer to the working load of the implements or just leave it where it is? It will hit the 2200 lbs real fast when the cylinders reach max travel.
 
   / Problems on home built FEL #18  
It wouldn't hurt to back the PRV down to a manageable setting till you feel comfortable about your setup......running up to 2200 psi at end of stroke is Ok and won't hurt anything......

The mechanical integrity of your structure/frame/weight balance is what I be worried about......the hydraulics will be just fine.....a pressure guage somewhere visible when operating might make you feel more confident of the proper pressure setting.....:)
 
   / Problems on home built FEL
  • Thread Starter
#19  
It wouldn't hurt to back the PRV down to a manageable setting till you feel comfortable about your setup......running up to 2200 psi at end of stroke is Ok and won't hurt anything......

The mechanical integrity of your structure/frame/weight balance is what I be worried about......the hydraulics will be just fine.....a pressure guage somewhere visible when operating might make you feel more confident of the proper pressure setting.....:)

Thanks for bringing up the issue of the mechanical integrity. I built the loader and bucket to a size I hoped wouldn't be a strain on the tractor. I'm not an engineer so I don't know how to calculate what would be a safe working load. I built the loader using the PF Engineering plans for a SCUT and modified them a little to fit my YM1900 hoping that if a SCUT could handle that size bucket, then my tractor should be ok.

I don't know what I should lower the PRV to for a safety margin or how to calculate a safe working load. If anyone has any experience with this, I could really use the help. Thanks.
 
   / Problems on home built FEL #20  
I don't know what I should lower the PRV to for a safety margin or how to calculate a safe working load. If anyone has any experience with this, I could really use the help. Thanks.



As long as cylinder is rated for the set PRV pressure and cylinder is taking all the stress from stalling, your current setting should be fine. But if you grab a very heavy load, you might stress the structure. To fully protect the structural integrity, I would advice a work port PRV, set at whatever 700-900psi. That would protect the structural integrity, if you travel/move, bouncing, over uneven ground with a heavy load in the bucket, as well as protect from excessive pump pressure. This way you also have your 2200psi available for a future PB application
 

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