'Professional' grade saws vs. 'Homeowner' saws

[Hay Dude]

ho ya that not a deal, that's pretty much what they go for new ... you can get good deals sometime but it is hard to take their word on the amount of usage it has, I bought mine used a 359 husky which are highly praise, I went and check it out, a older guy in a small town and I knew someone who knew him so its not like he could lie too much about it, I can't remember exactly how much I paid for it but I believe it was $600 if I remember correctly, I thought at the time it was expensive but he wouldn't budge on the price and said he only used it for a few years and only cut a few cord a year with it. I know they all say that but I took his word for it and gave him his price... that's been almost 10 years now and never had a problem with it.

What about buying new for the contract then selling it?

Very possible. Also looking into getting the Makita/Sachs rebuilt, but would like to have somethin other than my 261 ready for this week. I’m used to having 2 or ever 3 saws, not just one.
Helpers have saws & knowledge, so not super important.

 

[Skeans1]

While Kicking around the idea of buying used, I realized it’s pretty sketchy way of saving a few hundred bucks and really know it’s not worth it because it either stolen or somethings wrong with it.

Since I will mainly use this saw for one big job, then it’ll get used about 15 times a year thereafter, it‘s kind of tough to buy new, too.

Found a used 460 with a 28” bar. Guy wants $750! Seems too high.

Decisions…..

You don’t need that big of a saw to pull a 28 heck a 60cc will do it. If I was in those shoes I’d be looking for the lightest option you can with good anti vibe that way it’s more likely to get used.

Also what bars do you already have?

 

[Hay Dude]

You don’t need that big of a saw to pull a 28 heck a 60cc will do it. If I was in those shoes I’d be looking for the lightest option you can with good anti vibe that way it’s more likely to get used.

Also what bars do you already have?

Im looking at the Stihl 400 Has real nice power to weight ratio and the price is real good. Will run a 25”, which is fine.
Currently have 261C with 20” and Makita/Sachs 6401 with 24” (scored piston/cylinder)

 

[2manyrocks]

If you forsee a future use for the saw beyond the current cleanup job, today's price may seem like a bargain compared to what it might cost in a year or two. I think the little arborist top handle Echo saw I bought back in March has already jumped in price.

 

[Skeans1]

Im looking at the Stihl 400 Has real nice power to weight ratio and the price is real good. Will run a 25”, which is fine.
Currently have 261C with 20” and Makita/Sachs 6401 with 24” (scored piston/cylinder)

Something like a 372w or even an original 372 will run that 24” bar you already have same with a 562 all with better anti vibe vs the 460’s that are rubber mounted. If you’re dead set on Stihl I’d look at a 462 they’re a nice short bar saw, mine I’ve ran 32 but it’s not the happiest especially if the grind is aggressive. I put the Stihl 462 and the Husky 562 in about the same class I do prefer the way the Husky feels myself plus I’ve put a lot more hours on one vs the 462. I haven’t ran the newer Huskies like the 572 or the 592 so I can’t comment on how they handle longer bars but the original 372’s when they were hopped up they’d pull a 36 nicely, where the 385/390’s we’d go up to a 42 some guys would put 50’s and the 395’s would pull 60’s.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

A thought... And it involves Home Depot... So it may not work. I have had good luck a couple of times buying used rental tools. This one is a 64cc 20" Makita. Just a thought. There may be semi local rental yards that might sell you something that will work well for you at a discount from new?

 

[Darth_DMack]

Great thread!

I am a new property owner, creating our retirement home and "hobby farm". I recently inherited my late Dad's Stihl MS280 chainsaw. My brother is a 30 year Master Mechanic with our home county's Fleet Maintenance department. He recently completely rebuilt that MS280 and gifted it to me.

I must say, that saw cuts well. But, cold, it is a BEAR to start. Very finicky, but once you learn the secret, it runs well. Plenty of saw for what I need as a hobby farm.

I also purchased the Skil 40V chainsaw. I have several of the 40V PowerCore lawn tools from Skil, that I really enjoy using. This 40V chainsaw is perfect for firewood, and cutting the limbs and such from trees that the MS280 takes down.

Learning is a daily occurrence for me. I appreciate those of you who share your knowledge.

 

[5030]

The best way to start ANY saw is to keep the ignition OFF and roll it through a couple revolutions bring it to just past TDC on the final roll over and then switching it on and starting it. Carbs on chainsaws are mostly pumper carbs so rolling them over with no ignition, pumps the fuel into the carb so when you do apply the ignition, it's there and ready to get inducted.

Pretty easy to 'feel' where TDC is as there will be a resistance in the starter rope. Additionally, because I don't use my saws all that much, I run 'canned fuel' in them. Canned fuel has a much longer shelf life and because it comes premixed with oil (always JASO rated) no worries about mixing in bottled oil and possibly getting the mix ratio wrong.

I use Echo Red Armor 50-1 canned fuel except when 'breaking in' a new saw, then I run 40-1 canned fuel for the first couple tanks.

 

[kenmbz]

That would flood my 620p, ask how I know.
choke on, switch on, pull 2 times when cold. choke off, pull to start.

 

[sea2summit]

Been staring all my many Stihls the same way for…dang near 40 years. Full choke, one or two pulls it will caugh, choke off throttle lock, it starts. If it hasn’t started by the fourth pull something is wrong, normally some knuckle head that looks like me left the tank empty.