PT 1445 first hydraulic filter change?

[2manyrocks]

My 1445 has reached 50 hours. I have a new hydraulic filter to install, but what's the procedure to do the first 50 hour service? Do I replace all of the hydraulic oil in the hydraulic oil tank along with installing the new filter?

 

[ponytug]

The 50 hour service is just a new hydraulic filter, and bleeding of the charge pump. The procedure is in the manual. You need to hook the bleeder hose to the bleed port on the variable volume pump, and put the other end in the tank, uncouple the engine electrical connector (left rear of the engine) to shut the fuel solenoid, and then crank the engine 15 seconds of cranking with 45-60 seconds of cool off time for the starter. I only prefill the hydraulic filter from the outside holes, so all of the oil gets filtered. I admit to a phobia of getting any particles in the hydraulic pumps.

I did take the time to paint the bleeder cap on the variable volume pump with a bright paint so I wouldn't unscrew the wrong cap.

I would take the time on this first 50 hour service to check the tightness of each and every hydraulic line fitting. The first few cycles of cold / hot, no pressure / high pressure seem to have a way of slightly loosening fittings. For future services, I use the 50 hour reminder as a reminder to double check for hydraulic leaks or weeps.

I do an 8 hour grease at the same time, and check the engine oil.

One thing I have started doing for all my oil filters about four years ago is cutting every old filter can open, and opening up the filtration paper looking for debris. It only takes a couple of minutes, but I figure it is an early warning for something deteriorating. I bought a cheap oil filter cutter online that makes quick work of cutting the canister open. I also have strong magnets on all the oil filters, just in case. Cheap insurance in my book.

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

Thank you. Very much appreciated.

How do you add a magnet to a filter that didn't come with one? Not sure how I'd add one without it interfering with the gasket?

 

[ponytug]

I use high strength magnets and put them on the outside of the filter. You can get special made magnetic filter wraps that probably work even better.

A few other tips on the suction filter change; one, I put a leftover plastic food tray below the filter before I start to catch drips, and then I slip a one gallon ziplock bag onto the bottom of the filter. Once the seal is broken on the filter, I pull the ziplock up all the way and loosen it the filter while keeping the bag up. That keeps all the oil in the bag. (Thanks to @MossRoad) Second, use a chain wrench to get the filter off. I use a strap wrench to tighten the filter as you want the filter on pretty darn tight to prevent an air leak (check for bubbles in the main tank with the engine running after the filter change), but for getting the filter off, a chain wrench works wonders. I will usually recheck for bubbles in the main tank after a few hours, just in case.

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

What are you using for a bleeder hose? Do i need to use a hydraulic hose with a SAE fitting to attach it to the variable volume pump?

 

[ponytug]

What are you using for a bleeder hose? Do i need to use a hydraulic hose with a SAE fitting to attach it to the variable volume pump?

My tractor came with one. I would be quite surprised if yours didn't. Could it be in the engine compartment? It has a SAE/JIC female flare swivel fitting on one end (3/8?) and an unterminated hose on the other end. (If yours turns out to be in the compartment, I would give it a really, really thorough cleaning inside and out before using it. I'd use some foam "pigs".)

To use it, as the engine cracks the charge pump for the variable volume pump sucks air/oil through the (new) filter. The bypass fitting on the variable volume pump dumps the charge pump oil into the hose, flushing the air back to the main tank. The idea is that as you crank the engine, you watch the unterminated end in the main hydraulic tank to see when it is putting out just oil, i.e. no more air bubbles. Word of caution, as the charge pump moves the air through, the end can spurt oil that can really splash oil, so I tend to have the hose well into the tank until it is just down to tiny bubbles.

My bleeder hose gets wiped down, and wrapped in fresh paper towels after each use and stored in a clean ziplock until the next filter change.

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

Yeah, it should have come with the machine. Mine did. I also wipe it down, and put it in a ziplock back for next use. Now that I have a bypass hose (my vintage machine requires it as no tow valve) that will double as a bleed hose as well.

 

[2manyrocks]

The hose was packed inside the box with the new filter. It looks like a 1/4 hose about 39" long.

There is some kind of retaining ring packed inside the shrink wrapping on the new filter. Never seen this with a filter before. Is it something that is supposed to be installed as part of changing the hydraulic filter?

 

[MossRoad]

The hose was packed inside the box with the new filter. It looks like a 1/4 hose about 39" long.

There is some kind of retaining ring packed inside the shrink wrapping on the new filter. Never seen this with a filter before. Is it something that is supposed to be installed as part of changing the hydraulic filter?

Interesting that your hose has two fittings. Mine only had one with just a cut-off end on the other.

Maybe it can be used for something else as well? Just asking.

 

[2manyrocks]

Idk why it has fittings at each end. For brake bleeding, I’ve always used translucent hose to watch for air bubbles. Seems a little odd to be using a pressure hose for bleeding the pump ?