PT 1445 first hydraulic filter change?

[2manyrocks]

My 1445 has reached 50 hours. I have a new hydraulic filter to install, but what's the procedure to do the first 50 hour service? Do I replace all of the hydraulic oil in the hydraulic oil tank along with installing the new filter?

 

[ponytug]

The 50 hour service is just a new hydraulic filter, and bleeding of the charge pump. The procedure is in the manual. You need to hook the bleeder hose to the bleed port on the variable volume pump, and put the other end in the tank, uncouple the engine electrical connector (left rear of the engine) to shut the fuel solenoid, and then crank the engine 15 seconds of cranking with 45-60 seconds of cool off time for the starter. I only prefill the hydraulic filter from the outside holes, so all of the oil gets filtered. I admit to a phobia of getting any particles in the hydraulic pumps.

I did take the time to paint the bleeder cap on the variable volume pump with a bright paint so I wouldn't unscrew the wrong cap.

I would take the time on this first 50 hour service to check the tightness of each and every hydraulic line fitting. The first few cycles of cold / hot, no pressure / high pressure seem to have a way of slightly loosening fittings. For future services, I use the 50 hour reminder as a reminder to double check for hydraulic leaks or weeps.

I do an 8 hour grease at the same time, and check the engine oil.

One thing I have started doing for all my oil filters about four years ago is cutting every old filter can open, and opening up the filtration paper looking for debris. It only takes a couple of minutes, but I figure it is an early warning for something deteriorating. I bought a cheap oil filter cutter online that makes quick work of cutting the canister open. I also have strong magnets on all the oil filters, just in case. Cheap insurance in my book.

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

Thank you. Very much appreciated.

How do you add a magnet to a filter that didn't come with one? Not sure how I'd add one without it interfering with the gasket?

 

[ponytug]

I use high strength magnets and put them on the outside of the filter. You can get special made magnetic filter wraps that probably work even better.

A few other tips on the suction filter change; one, I put a leftover plastic food tray below the filter before I start to catch drips, and then I slip a one gallon ziplock bag onto the bottom of the filter. Once the seal is broken on the filter, I pull the ziplock up all the way and loosen it the filter while keeping the bag up. That keeps all the oil in the bag. (Thanks to @MossRoad) Second, use a chain wrench to get the filter off. I use a strap wrench to tighten the filter as you want the filter on pretty darn tight to prevent an air leak (check for bubbles in the main tank with the engine running after the filter change), but for getting the filter off, a chain wrench works wonders. I will usually recheck for bubbles in the main tank after a few hours, just in case.

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

What are you using for a bleeder hose? Do i need to use a hydraulic hose with a SAE fitting to attach it to the variable volume pump?

 

[ponytug]

What are you using for a bleeder hose? Do i need to use a hydraulic hose with a SAE fitting to attach it to the variable volume pump?

My tractor came with one. I would be quite surprised if yours didn't. Could it be in the engine compartment? It has a SAE/JIC female flare swivel fitting on one end (3/8?) and an unterminated hose on the other end. (If yours turns out to be in the compartment, I would give it a really, really thorough cleaning inside and out before using it. I'd use some foam "pigs".)

To use it, as the engine cracks the charge pump for the variable volume pump sucks air/oil through the (new) filter. The bypass fitting on the variable volume pump dumps the charge pump oil into the hose, flushing the air back to the main tank. The idea is that as you crank the engine, you watch the unterminated end in the main hydraulic tank to see when it is putting out just oil, i.e. no more air bubbles. Word of caution, as the charge pump moves the air through, the end can spurt oil that can really splash oil, so I tend to have the hose well into the tank until it is just down to tiny bubbles.

My bleeder hose gets wiped down, and wrapped in fresh paper towels after each use and stored in a clean ziplock until the next filter change.

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

Yeah, it should have come with the machine. Mine did. I also wipe it down, and put it in a ziplock back for next use. Now that I have a bypass hose (my vintage machine requires it as no tow valve) that will double as a bleed hose as well.

 

[2manyrocks]

The hose was packed inside the box with the new filter. It looks like a 1/4 hose about 39" long.

There is some kind of retaining ring packed inside the shrink wrapping on the new filter. Never seen this with a filter before. Is it something that is supposed to be installed as part of changing the hydraulic filter?

 

[MossRoad]

The hose was packed inside the box with the new filter. It looks like a 1/4 hose about 39" long.

There is some kind of retaining ring packed inside the shrink wrapping on the new filter. Never seen this with a filter before. Is it something that is supposed to be installed as part of changing the hydraulic filter?

Interesting that your hose has two fittings. Mine only had one with just a cut-off end on the other.

Maybe it can be used for something else as well? Just asking.

 

[2manyrocks]

Idk why it has fittings at each end. For brake bleeding, I’ve always used translucent hose to watch for air bubbles. Seems a little odd to be using a pressure hose for bleeding the pump ?

 

[2manyrocks]

I am just not understanding PT's directions which I am quoting so we're all on the same page as to what instructions came with my unit.

Hydraulic Oil filter Replacement Instructions

"1. Remove floor plate to gain access to filter element." ?? The filter element is right behind the fuel tank. What floor plate do they mean?

"2. Remove right side tram control hose at treadle and pump." There are three hoses connected to the treadle. Which one am I supposed to disconnect? If I am supposed to disconnect it at the pump, too, which hose is it? And why is it necessary to disconnect the hose at the treadle and the pump? If I disconnect one end of the hose at the treadle, that should open the system by itself?

skipping 3-11 for now.

Tram pump bleeding instructions

"1. Remove engine harness from left side of engine to prevent engine from starting." Is the engine harness the connector I have shown in the attached photo?

"2. Remove floor plate to access tramp pump." ???? Isn't the pressure port cap accessible from the side of the machine as shown in the attached photo".

"3. Turn engine over.....until air free oil escapes from bleeder hose in tank." Happened to look in the hyd. oil tank, and I saw bubbles before even starting to change the hydraulic oil filter. (photo). Is this normal?

 

[ponytug]

I am just not understanding PT's directions which I am quoting so we're all on the same page as to what instructions came with my unit.

Hydraulic Oil filter Replacement Instructions

"1. Remove floor plate to gain access to filter element." ?? The filter element is right behind the fuel tank. What floor plate do they mean?

"2. Remove right side tram control hose at treadle and pump." There are three hoses connected to the treadle. Which one am I supposed to disconnect? If I am supposed to disconnect it at the pump, too, which hose is it? And why is it necessary to disconnect the hose at the treadle and the pump? If I disconnect one end of the hose at the treadle, that should open the system by itself?

skipping 3-11 for now.

Tram pump bleeding instructions

"1. Remove engine harness from left side of engine to prevent engine from starting." Is the engine harness the connector I have shown in the attached photo?

"2. Remove floor plate to access tramp pump." ???? Isn't the pressure port cap accessible from the side of the machine as shown in the attached photo".

"3. Turn engine over.....until air free oil escapes from bleeder hose in tank." Happened to look in the hyd. oil tank, and I saw bubbles before even starting to change the hydraulic oil filter. (photo). Is this normal?

View attachment 1800176 View attachment 1800177 View attachment 1800178 View attachment 1800179 View attachment 1800180

Hmmm...I'm going to suggest that you talk to Terry on the instructions. They may have new/different plumbing or pumps from my older unit. I can't think why you would need/want to remove the floor plate to access a hose there, but perhaps it is a better way, or something that is required by a different model pump.

Nice photos. Yes, the cap in photo #3 is the right one for the pump that I have. Yes, the connector in photo #4 is the one you want to disconnect. You will get lots of bubbles while cranking.

While you are on the phone with Terry, I would ask him about the extra o-ring. My suspicion would be that it goes on the threaded central section of the filter housing in the tractor, but I've never seen that o-ring before. Then again, I have been buying 3rd party filters because the shipping out to my places made the filters rather pricey. I know of similar filters that have the inner o-ring to prevent fluid from bypassing the filter. If that is the case, be careful putting the o-ring on as getting o-rings beyond threaded sections risks nicking or cutting the o-ring. What are the dimensions of that o-ring?

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

I don't understand why the instructions would say to disconnect a hose from the treadle. I've never had to disconnect any hoses on other equipment in order to replace a hydraulic filter.

Oddly, it's not an O-ring. It's some kind of metal similar to what you'd use for a key ring or parts ring. But it is sealed inside the filter shrinkwrap.

I emailed my questions to Power Trac just now.

 

[ponytug]

If it is metal, I do not have a single idea.

 

[2manyrocks]

Talked to Terry. Part of the written instructions about removing the floor plate and removing the tram control hose were intended for a different model and do not apply to the 1445. He is going to get them revised.

The correct procedure is to remove the hydraulic filter, leave the O ring in the base, fill the filter and let it soak in, reattach the filter giving it a full turn to get it tight. It makes it harder to remove from the machine, but it prevents air leaks. Disconnect the electrical connection to the engine. Attach the bleed hose. Crank/stop at 5 sec intervals until a full stream of oil is achieved. Terry said the hose will spit and sputter and finally reach full stream depending on how full the filter was when put back on the machine.

Terry cautioned that if someone just puts the filter back on without filling it first, it is possible to score and ruin the pump in about 45 seconds.

Substitute wix hydraulic filter number is 51759 for the PT1445. Oil 51034, fuel 33195, air 46294. Also told to be sure both snap latches are properly locked in place on the air filter when changing it or dirt will be sucked into the engine.

There doesn't appear to be a recommendation for changing the hydraulic oil at a specific number of operating hours other than to change it when it appears discolored. The main source of contamination comes from dirt entering when the quick connects are attached to the tractor without cleaning them first.

Then he reminded me to grease all grease points and make sure the bottom nut on the center section is tight.

 

[SpringHollow]

Those are the same filter numbers for the PT1850

 

[2manyrocks]

Thank you ponytug for your continued help. I'm so glad I listed to you and didn't open up the lines to the tram control per the written instructions that were in error. Placing a bag around the oil filter was a great tip for which I also thank Moss Road.

Also appreciated speaking with Terry who confirmed that the written instructions to open the tram line don't apply to the 1445. His advice to fill, fill, fill, and let the oil soak in, in, in the new filter was very spot on. The new filter soaks up a lot of oil before it's actually full. Terry's advice was to crank the engine (disconnected) in 5 sec on/off cycles until oil was a steady stream from the hose attached to the charge port also made more sense than the instructions. Couldn't quite get the filter a full turn. Only got to 3/4 but I'm not seeing any air bubbles or leaks.

Turns out that a container for simple green detergent fits around the hydraulic filter. I cut it to catch whatever oil got past the bag around the filter.

Having reached the 50 hour break in, decided to go ahead and install the tire chains which made a huge difference in hillside traction.

 

[ponytug]

Thank you ponytug for your continued help. I'm so glad I listed to you and didn't open up the lines to the tram control per the written instructions that were in error. Placing a bag around the oil filter was a great tip for which I also thank Moss Road.

Also appreciated speaking with Terry who confirmed that the written instructions to open the tram line don't apply to the 1445. His advice to fill, fill, fill, and let the oil soak in, in, in the new filter was very spot on. The new filter soaks up a lot of oil before it's actually full. Terry's advice was to crank the engine (disconnected) in 5 sec on/off cycles until oil was a steady stream from the hose attached to the charge port also made more sense than the instructions. Couldn't quite get the filter a full turn. Only got to 3/4 but I'm not seeing any air bubbles or leaks.

Turns out that a container for simple green detergent fits around the hydraulic filter. I cut it to catch whatever oil got past the bag around the filter.

Having reached the 50 hour break in, decided to go ahead and install the tire chains which made a huge difference in hillside traction.

View attachment 1821109View attachment 1821127View attachment 1821356View attachment 1821122

View attachment 1821117

Congratulations on the first filter change!

Gorgeous 1445 photo! Yes, I found that those chains make a world of difference when brush hogging on slopes. @SpringHollow put me on to them. That 1445 brush mower is big, and a long way out from the 1445's center of gravity, so it gets no small amount of leverage on the tractor. Nonetheless, I find that the mower is very very effective, just much more agile and controllable on slopes. I may have written this already, but I would take the time to adjust the draft control for the brush mower once the hydraulic oil is warm, and then on slopes mow using the draft control. You will know if you set the draft control too strong if the mower starts rising by itself.

One small tip on filters; someone put me on to using a paint marker to write the hours (or miles) and dates on filters. With various engines around here, it helps me stay on top of things.

I love this forum for all of the great folks with helpful advice. I'm glad my advice helped you!

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

...

One small tip on filters; someone put me on to using a paint marker to write the hours (or miles) and dates on filters. With various engines around here, it helps me stay on top of things.

...

 

[2manyrocks]

Started up this morning and there was no delay in getting forward movement from the treadle pedal for the first time since I've owned this machine. It may have been SpringHollow who suggested in another thread there might have been air in the system.