PT 1845 50 Hour Service/ Weekend work

Sedgewood · May 28, 2002

Charlie 

There wasn't any. I had less than a quarter tank and it was apparently below the filter.

Ahh.... so clever.

My plan had been just to do the change quickly, figuring that diesel fuel in the pan under the engine would help clean up some of the oil I had spilled from the hydraulic filter, the engine oil filter and the engine drain plug - no such luck.

There seems no easy way to capture spills the way things are laid out in the engine compartment, especially when the oil drain plug points AWAY from the access hole in the floor.

Charlie_Iliff · May 28, 2002

There seems no easy way to capture spills the way things are laid out in the engine compartment, especially when the oil drain plug points AWAY from the access hole in the floor.
I solved that problem by use of a clever device. I cut a quart oil bottle diagonally, so the neck protruded out the access hole, and the body caught the stream from the oil drain hole. Inevitably, of course, the plug slipped from my fingers and immediately plugged the neck of the bottle, so the first quart ran into the pan anyway. I was able to redirect the rest out through the hole into a catch can, however.
I dug out the book when I got home tonight. As I read it, the valve clearance should be measured on commissioning the engine, which I hope was before we got it, and then at 500 hours. I'm looking at the table on 5.1 of the operation manual, not the completely incomprehensible chart on 5.2 and its adhesive clone. Am I misreading it?
Incidentally, I also once again carefully blew out the oil cooler, from both directions. I mowed in 80 plus temperatures. The temp needle didn't peg, but stabilized above the middle of the top segment. Does yours run that hot when mowing at full throttle?

Sedgewood · May 29, 2002

I solved that problem by use of a clever device.
Me too. I took a compound bucket lid, cut about a one inch hole in it out near the rim, bent the lip of the hole down to act as a drip edge and laid it on the floor of the engine compartment with the lid hole over the compartment hole. The oil streamed onto the lid and ran out the hole. Worked great except for the last 1/2 cup or so that stayed on the lid.
As I read it, the valve clearance should be measured on commissioning the engine, which I hope was before we got it, and then at 500 hours.
As I read it, the valve clearance should be checked at the first 50 hour service after commissioning and then every 1000 hours. The incomprehensible chart omits the first 50 hour check.
Incidentally, I also once again carefully blew out the oil cooler, from both directions. I mowed in 80 plus temperatures. The temp needle didn't peg, but stabilized above the middle of the top segment. Does yours run that hot when mowing at full throttle?
No, but it hasn't been that hot here yet when I've been mowing. The gage seems to stay near or just above the last tick mark before the top one no matter what I'm doing.

davesisk · May 29, 2002

You guys are extremely clever with the oil-catching deal. I ordered one of the suction cans (like a so-called "Top-sider") from Harbor Freight Tools, so I intend to suck the oil right out. I know have 3 automobiles, a tractor, and a lawnmower to change oil in, so it'll serve multi-duty...

Now, question about the used oil: if you burn it in Tiki-torches, will it repel mosquitoes like citronella oil does? <g>.

Dave

Charlie_Iliff · May 29, 2002

As I read it, the valve clearance should be measured on commissioning the engine, which I hope was before we got it, and then at 500 hours.
As I read it, the valve clearance should be checked at the first 50 hour service after commissioning and then every 1000 hours. The incomprehensible chart omits the first 50 hour check.
I may not be able to do it for a few days, but I'll try to scan and post the page(s) from my book. Sounds as if we have different Deutz books.

Sedgewood · May 29, 2002

Sounds as if we have different Deutz books.
Or different engines... my fuel filter I see is a good 6 inches below the bottom of the tank and I presume fuel would flow if I remove it.

My engine is a F3L 1011F s/n 0562077, the book's title is "Operation Manual, FL 1011" uh oh - 1st edition 04/1994. Could my engine be that old too? Hmmm...

So I go to http://www.deutz.de/framee.htm and what do I find:

"The 1011F, the presently most successful industrial engine in its class worldwide will have a successor, the 2011, as of March 2001."

and

"What is new compared to the 1011F ?

• Enlarged displacement

• Up to 14% uprating

• Higher torque

• A future-proof engine concept which fulfills the exhaust emission regulations COMII and EPII far beyond the year 2004

• Extended service life of the toothed timing belt

• No more valve clearance adjustment

• A 55% higher PTO of 28 kW at 2800 min-1 for hydraulic pump drive

• Even greater reliability through optimized cylinder head cooling and broader flywheel ring gear"

and

"Your benefits:

• Compact dimensions
• More power with identical installation space
• Excellent power-to-weight ratio
• Oil cooling prevents corrosion and cavitation
• High reliability together with low wear
• Low operating costs
• Low noise emissions"

Charlie_Iliff · May 29, 2002

John:
Once again, I'm at my office and the book and Power Trac are at home. I'll check numbers, etc. this evening. Since my manual clearly sets out the procedure for adjusting valve lash, it seems likely that neither of us has the "new improved" model. My recollection is that the book covers two models, three cylinder and four cylinder, both with model numbers beginning with 1.
Since I was sending a 50 hour e-mail report to Terry Estep anyway, I included a question about valve adjustment.

Sedgewood · May 29, 2002

Gotta reply to my own post here.
Incidentally, I also once again carefully blew out the oil cooler, from both directions. I mowed in 80 plus temperatures. The temp needle didn't peg, but stabilized above the middle of the top segment. Does yours run that hot when mowing at full throttle?
No, but it hasn't been that hot here yet when I've been mowing. The gage seems to stay near or just above the last tick mark before the top one no matter what I'm doing.
To modify my response above, I was out mowing for about 3 hours today - a comfortable day, probably in the mid to upper 70's - and my gage was reading near the top of the scale this time and when I stopped and visually checked the cooler I found it partly covered with chaff. Will blow it out tomorrow and see what difference it makes if any.

Sedgewood · May 29, 2002

Charlie, it seems likely that neither of us has the "new improved" model.
Oh. That thought missed me entirely. My little mind was focused more on the thought that we perhaps just missed getting the latest and greatest rather than the soon to be passe. You did perhaps notice the "Low noise emissions" feature as well?

Charlie_Iliff · May 29, 2002

John: You wrote

Or different engines... my fuel filter I see is a good 6 inches below the bottom of the tank and I presume fuel would flow if I remove it.
Not different engines. Once again I exercised my highly developed talent for medium-term misrecollection to increase your anxiety level. I correctly recalled that after an initial splash, no fuel drained out during the filter change, but my filter also is below the tank. The hose can be looped up a bit, but I didn't bother, since I was swapping quickly anyway. I haven't a clue why it didn't run all over the place. (On yours, it probably will.)

My engine is a F3L 1011F s/n 0562077, the book's title is "Operation Manual, FL 1011" uh oh - 1st edition 04/1994. Could my engine be that old too? Hmmm...
Mine is F3L 1011F s/n 0562075. Two numbers earlier befits my earlier purchase date, right? My PT 1845 serial number is 15219.
Oh, my manual is Operation Manual B/FL 1011F B/FM 1011F. On the back cover it says 2nd Edition 3/99.
Since mine doesn't require valve lash testing for another 450 hours, I recommend you call Power Trac and request -- demand even -- a 2nd Edition.