PT-425 PTO Not Starting

[MossRoad]

I didn't read the low voltage report until I read your reply. I just had a battery replaced in my Impala. It wouldn't go past about 12V.

 

[ponytug]

@Husker34 In the minor FWIW category, Ohm's law is V=IR, or I=V/R, so 12V/5ohms= 2.4 amps, about what many solenoids draw, so you are in the ballpark on the solenoid resistance.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Husker34]

Well I spoke to Terry today for a few minutes, after I installed a new battery (no change to problem). I tested a connection back towards the switch and was getting about 2v. I had to hang up with him and pulled the panel to look in at the switches. Prior owner had ordered a new ignition switch and had not installed it, so I figured good time to do that. I reached back in (forgot I had key on still) moved the wire to ignition and there was a spark...damn! Then engine wouldn't turn at all (new fuse fixed that).

So killed power from battery and took out the plug and saw the wire running from harness to the PTO switch was hanging by a thread or two.... literally. I got all that pulled out, put new ignition key in and reattached wire to harness how it's supposed to be. Then the wires running to lights were loose and tightened them up with a new connector. Got all back together and..... engine just cranks and won't run.

So do some diagnostics on ignition key, it has same plug configuration, but figured out it's got different diagram than original one but looks practically the same. So I popped in old one after I dug it out of the trash and plugged it in and I have engine power, running lights again and PTO seems like it works again (finally heard the click when I had key on engine off and flipped on PTO switch).

I think I'm back in business but going to have to figure out a new situation for the old ignition key. Thanks for all the help and input everyone!

 

[Husker34]

Also, seems as though the key assemblies may look the same but there are different internal wiring options after doing a quick search. The new one I had has 6 posts and the old one only 5 posts. 6 post would just crank and crank and 5 post let's it fire right off.

Oh and prior owner did a little modification.....chopped a hole in the back lower to be able to pull the battery. Unconventional but it works.

 

[ponytug]

I am glad that you got your tractor running. Congratulations!

if it were me, I would keep an eye on that battery hole, as square holes in corners are notoriously weak, and sources for cracking.

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

As I recall, I had to replace the ignition switch on my 2001 425 about 10 years ago, and I had to do a little paper and pencil thinking to get the connections correct.

Glad you got it going.

As for your battery... is your's like mine in that you have to remove the muffler to get it out if you didn't have that custom access port?

 

[Husker34]

I would definitely have to take out the muffler to get the battery out. It definitely is not as good integrity strength wise as he also built a counterweight he attached to the hitch pin. It's bent/bowed because of that. I may employ my brother in law welder to strengthen it back up and create a better way to quickly attach/detach the counterweight (about 70lbs I'd estimate). It definitely helps with moving heavy dirt.

 

[MossRoad]

Mine is similar, in that I have to remove the muffler. 3 batteries in 21 years. Last time, the exhaust stud broke off instead of the nut coming loose. I had to weld a nut to the stub to get it out. Kind of a pain in the rear.

However, with all of the quirks and such, I'd buy it again. Just too handy.

 

[cqaigy2]

I don't recall what model ignition switch i got, but it seemed like a direct replacement. I think i posted in your niffty thread about replacement part Moss

 

[cqaigy2]

oh and replacing the battery for me is pulling the gas tank off, then snake it up and out through there.