PT422 will not stay in float

[BobRip]

I would be concerned about having it jammed into float while mowing [or whatever job you had to do ] on a hill going around the slope and the wedge vibrates loose just enough for it to drop out of float but not enough for it to come out of the down pressure it might start lifting the front of the machine if you were in a tight place by the time you get the wedge out it would have enough time to bow the machine as far as the stroke on the lift arm jacks would go and that on a slope might cause a tiping problem but then again it might not but any time a machine makes an unintended move the danger risk raises, that is just my thoughts others might not feel that way and that is ok too.

Thanks for the input. I will find another way.

 

[Beechwood]

Bob ;
These pictures show the longer cap housings at the bottom of the valve. You can see the hex head screws on the side of the housings. The one to the far right is the OEM float spool . I added the second float spool for special applications like allowing my snow blade to float in the tilt postion.
Your joystick uses a swivel adaptor plate that attaches to the top of the spools.

 

[BobRip]

I had another idea to correct this jumping out of float. It involves a bungee cord and piece of wood. I have not driven around with this since it's raining, but it seems to work pretty well in the shop. It also can be left in place when not using it. See attached pictures.

The block is made of a 1/5 by 2 inch piece.

 

[johara1]

the handle is too long and too heavy for the detent to hold it. the 180 uses two short levers,the long ones on the rest are to make them easer to control.but to get something you have to give up something.......jim

 

[BobRip]

the handle is too long and too heavy for the detent to hold it. the 180 uses two short levers,the long ones on the rest are to make them easer to control.but to get something you have to give up something.......jim

Good point. PT has an upgrade for this, but it was around $60. My solution was cheaper.

 

[BobRip]

I had another idea to correct this jumping out of float. It involves a bungee cord and piece of wood. I have not driven around with this since it's raining, but it seems to work pretty well in the shop. It also can be left in place when not using it. See attached pictures.

The block is made of a 1/5 by 2 inch piece.

I have been using this modification since April 2007 and it has worked very well. When not being used the block can get in the way a little bit. Today I made a simple change to correct this. I took the end of the block with the hole in it (not the slotted end) and took it off of the control lever. Then I ran the bungee cord through this hole. It was necessary to trim the bungee cord to get it through the hole. Of course I could have enlarged the hole. I tied a wire through the bungee cord and pulled it through the hole. The act of pulling stretched the cord and thinned it out so it went through the hole easier. I can store the block in front of the pedestal when not needed. I have attached two pictures.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Bob, the thing is looking like Franken-tractor. What is the 12volt supply supplying?

Carl

 

[BobRip]

Bob, the thing is looking like Franken-tractor. What is the 12volt supply supplying?

Carl

It runs up to a 4 switch panel. The panel controls the headlights (one for each side), the backup light, and the flashing light on the back on the ROP. I have moved the headlights to under the ROP. This works much better if you have the bucket on as you can see over the bucket.

 

[J_J]

It runs up to a 4 switch panel. The panel controls the headlights (one for each side), the backup light, and the flashing light on the back on the ROP. I have moved the headlights to under the ROP. This works much better if you have the bucket on as you can see over the bucket.

Bob, I have to ask, did you ever try and fix the detent/float part of the valve?

 

[BobRip]

Bob, I have to ask, did you ever try and fix the detent/float part of the valve?

No. PT has a fix, but I was just being too cheap to pay $60. I suspect as has been mentioned that the arm is too long for the existing detent and a bump can knock it out of detent from the long moment arm of the arm. (Is that clear? big weight on long stick = big force during jaring of the machine). I guess that I was also concerned that the PT fix would not work. Has anyone tried it?