PTO electric clutch help!

[ArlyA]

The reason I'd love to use a solid shaft is to simplify the balancing and the tiller tooth cutting. If one used a 1.5 tiller shaft, then 2 or 2.250 flat iron could be used for the tines with a 1.5 punched threw its center. This is part of my KISS design program. Here's a photo of a mock up with a 1.5 OD pipe and 2.25 flat tine.

 

[farm boy00]

The reason I'd love to use a solid shaft is to simplify the balancing and the tiller tooth cutting. If one used a 1.5 tiller shaft, then 2 or 2.250 flat iron could be used for the tines with a 1.5 punched threw its center. This is part of my KISS design program. Here's a photo of a mock up with a 1.5 OD pipe and 2.25 flat tine.

Can you use tube steel as your photo shows and then stick a 1.5in shaft inside of it. Then use a sheer bolt on each end so if you hit a stump or something, the bolts will sheer and protect the drivetrain.

Can draw a picture of my idea if interested or do not understand

 

[texasranger556]

Re: electric PTO clutch and shaft size help!

6 foot span of 1.5" rod with tines beating against the ground sounds a bit light to me, but I'm not an ME.

How often do you run across stumps, rocks, etc?

 

[ArlyA]

Re: electric PTO clutch and shaft size help!

I am also worried that this is too long of a span to not get bent during a marriage with Mr Stump. Flexing would be good but a bent shaft, would be a terrible repair job and that's the reason we're looking at various alternatives.

Yes, we need this durable enough to withstand an occasional impact with something. If you assume you'll never hit a rock or stump, then you will within 24 hours. :confused2:

6 foot span of 1.5" rod with tines beating against the ground sounds a bit light to me, but I'm not an ME.
How often do you run across stumps, rocks, etc?

 

[ArlyA]

The pins you speak of must be the same as walk behind snow blowers have in there gathering augers. At least, all the ones I've owned have had shear pins there. We hope not to use shear pins,,, but to address my lame 1.5 shaft strenght, I was contemplating welding a snug fitting pipe 1.5 ID pipe between the tine sets for part of the tillers length. Maybe just for the center half? The center portion would be the weak point and if there are 100% welded on, they would reinforce the shaft. Small minds pondering much....

QUOTE=farm boy00;5400916]Can you use tube steel as your photo shows and then stick a 1.5in shaft inside of it. Then use a sheer bolt on each end so if you hit a stump or something, the bolts will sheer and protect the drivetrain.=[/QUOTE]

 

[farm boy00]

The pins you speak of must be the same as walk behind snow blowers have in there gathering augers. At least, all the ones I've owned have had shear pins there. We hope not to use shear pins,,, but to address my lame 1.5 shaft strenght, I was contemplating welding a snug fitting pipe 1.5 ID pipe between the tine sets for part of the tillers length. Maybe just for the center half? The center portion would be the weak point and if there are 100% welded on, they would reinforce the shaft. Small minds pondering much....

QUOTE=farm boy00;5400916]Can you use tube steel as your photo shows and then stick a 1.5in shaft inside of it. Then use a sheer bolt on each end so if you hit a stump or something, the bolts will sheer and protect the drivetrain.=

[/QUOTE]You can weld in parts to try to strengthen something weak but if it has problems, it will be back to the drawing board. With sheer pins, you have protection for that weak part. Just replace 2 bolts and your fine.

On a brush hog you will either have a soup clutch or shear pins as the weakest link in a drivetrain. I would try to mimic that idea if I knew where the weak part is as you do to protect it.

 

[ArlyA]

As far as I can tell, there are no shear pins being used across snow tiller industry. I'm not sure why this is, could be the tillers spin in a direction that lifts it when it strikes something. Could be they can do this because they are hydrostaticly driven... If we drilled a 1/4 pin hole in this 1.5 tiller shaft, that would very much create a weak point in it. I"ll add two more photos of manufactured tillers. The 2 belts and electric PTO clutch are added in part, to allow for a soft connection to the engine.

[/QUOTE]You can weld in parts to try to strengthen something weak but if it has problems, it will be back to the drawing board. With sheer pins, you have protection for that weak part. Just replace 2 bolts and your fine.

On a brush hog you will either have a soup clutch or shear pins as the weakest link in a drivetrain. I would try to mimic that idea if I knew where the weak part is as you do to protect it.[/QUOTE]

 

[ArlyA]

Seems we can get a Vanguard B&S or Kolher engine in the 37 HP size for around $2300 but it will need a battery, pump and fuel tank. Has anyone seem them for less??

So we're also looking for a universal, poly, fuel tank in the 10-+ gallon range with a gauge in its cap and bottom drain. Has anyone seen them? All I've found have a plain cap and do not offer the gauge type..

 

[texasranger556]

That sounds like a pretty good price for a new air cooled engine that big. Used is another option, but that size isn't nearly as common as the sub 25 or even 30 hp range, from what I've seen.

A boat fuel tank may work for you. Many have a built in site gauge. If the engine you pick has a fuel pump, it should draw from a top pickup. The fuel tanks on my zero turn draw from the top, with a vacuum powered fuel pump on the Kawasaki engine. The tanks are mounted about the same height as the engine.

 

[ArlyA]

Seems that these higher HP 999CC V-twin engines are relatively new and higher in price. The $2300 one did not have a muffler and most have been in the 2400 to 2800 range. All these do need pumped fuel to it which seems is pretty easy to do. That is, have tank draining into a filter, then electrically pumped to the engine (correct PSI of course). So far, I can't locate tank that comes with a gauge and bottom drained. I did email the company who retails this round one like pasted below and they did not sell gauges for them.... How do the people who use them, know how much fuel they have???!!!

That sounds like a pretty good price for a new air cooled engine that big. Used is another option, but that size isn't nearly as common as the sub 25 or even 30 hp range, from what I've seen.

A boat fuel tank may work for you. Many have a built in site gauge. If the engine you pick has a fuel pump, it should draw from a top pickup. The fuel tanks on my zero turn draw from the top, with a vacuum powered fuel pump on the Kawasaki engine. The tanks are mounted about the same height as the engine.