PTO Problems

[J_J]

Carl,

On that hose list did you make up that list? I thought it was unusual that the measurement was just the length of the rubber, and was that the visible rubber. Whenever I have asked the hoseman to build a hose, they take the old hose with fittings and lay it out on a table, and pull out some hose with the fittings laying in the installed position, and then cut the hose, and then crimp.

Andy,

If I asked you for a hose assembly that was 102 in, would you not cut the hose shorter to include the fittings, for a total length of 102 in.
I noticed that some of the fittings cover the ends of the rubber anywhere from 1.5 to 2 in.

On some of the hose assemblies, when you do not have the old hose, and it has a 90 degree bend in the fitting, do you ask the customer if the length is to the middle of the bend or does it include the total bend. My thinking is that the middle of the bend would be the true distance.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Andy,

If I asked you for a hose assembly that was 102 in, would you not cut the hose shorter to include the fittings, for a total length of 102 in.
I noticed that some of the fittings cover the ends of the rubber anywhere from 1.5 to 2 in.

On some of the hose assemblies, when you do not have the old hose, and it has a 90 degree bend in the fitting, do you ask the customer if the length is to the middle of the bend or does it include the total bend. My thinking is that the middle of the bend would be the true distance.

Okay, I just happen to know these off the top of my flat head, so I'll give this example.

102" overall length, -8 (1/2") hose, -8 female JIC fittings. Cut-off factor on a Weatherhead crimp fitting for a -8 hose by -8 female JIC is 1.5". So, using 2 crimp fittings, I would cut 99" of hose. Add on the 1.5" of fitting from where the hose ends and the fitting then extends on each end, (1.5" + 1.5"=3") would give the 102"overall length.

There is something on every crimp fitting called a "cut-off factor." This cut-off factor is the measurement from where the hose would end inside the crimp fitting to the end of the fitting. On anything but a straight fitting, the cut-off factor is measured from the center of the fitting opening, no matter what angle the fitting is.

When I make a hose, I measure the overall length. I then subtract the cut-off factor from the o.a.l. Then I cut my hose. I always ask what the hose is off of before I start. On the times when hose length is critical, I place the new assembly next to the old assembly, before crimping of course. I'll make sure the length is correct.

Whenever a hose is listed, it should be in overall length, not the cut or exposed hose length. I hope this is understandable. Any questions, fell free to ask, Andy.

 

[woodlandfarms]

JJ

On the 1850 there are 2 connectors, an upper and lower.. The upper is a long bar with two bolts. The first bolt would be in line with the lower bolt (like the 425 - coming off the back half of the PT) but the this bar goes forward and is bolted say where your feet rest.

It has a Radial Bearing

The bottom section assemble looks just like the 425's. It has a tightenable nut, just the same as the 425.

It also has Ball Bushing and a spacer (along with snap rings to hold it in place).

I do not know how easy replacing these bearing is going to be.

I asked Terry for a parts list for the PT because I have to replace some hoses. I just wanted to be able to pull the replacement through, but I needed lengths. This is what he sent me. Yes, Hand written, And no, i do not know the dealio with the length. But I feel it is just the length of rubber needed to be cut, and then the ends ad to the length (at the top is says rubber Length and PT is very literal)

 

[J_J]

JJ

On the 1850 there are 2 connectors, an upper and lower.. The upper is a long bar with two bolts. The first bolt would be in line with the lower bolt (like the 425 - coming off the back half of the PT) but the this bar goes forward and is bolted say where your feet rest.

It has a Radial Bearing

The bottom section assemble looks just like the 425's. It has a tightenable nut, just the same as the 425.

It also has Ball Bushing and a spacer (along with snap rings to hold it in place).

I do not know how easy replacing these bearing is going to be.

I asked Terry for a parts list for the PT because I have to replace some hoses. I just wanted to be able to pull the replacement through, but I needed lengths. This is what he sent me. Yes, Hand written, And no, i do not know the dealio with the length. But I feel it is just the length of rubber needed to be cut, and then the ends ad to the length (at the top is says rubber Length and PT is very literal)

Carl, on the hose thing. Did you order your new hoses from that list, or did you take the old hose in for comparison. When you gave them the dimensions, without a hose to compare, did the finish product fit. I remember something about one hose being to short.

In the above post, Andy explained the procedure for cutting and crimping the fittings. His explanation is the way I thought it should work.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I did not have this list when I made up hoses. I just used a string and a tape measurer. Honestly, I am way off... The hoses are a bit short all the way around..

Carl

 

[woodlandfarms]

Well, here is the update....

Unless there is something plugging up my Aluminum block (I feel I have checked it) then my Solenoid is bad.

I have replaced all the hoses (there were rock hard) except for the return lines as I have to drain the tank to do that and they are not under pressure...

So, the solonoid activates, but I don't think it is strong enough to fully activate. That is why I am getting these weird results...

But, I leave for LA tomorrow so this part is going to have to be replaced later....

 

[ponytug]

Carl,

A tip that I think Terry suggested was to hook up a shop vaccuum to the oil tank and turn it on. It apparently generates enough suction not to leak much while you change reservoir hoses. I can say that I have tried it.

All the best,

Peter

Well, here is the update....

Unless there is something plugging up my Aluminum block (I feel I have checked it) then my Solenoid is bad.

I have replaced all the hoses (there were rock hard) except for the return lines as I have to drain the tank to do that and they are not under pressure...

So, the solonoid activates, but I don't think it is strong enough to fully activate. That is why I am getting these weird results...

But, I leave for LA tomorrow so this part is going to have to be replaced later....

 

[woodlandfarms]

WOW. That is a WAY cool idea. I have 3 hoses that are original that have me concerned. All are low pressure but the are hard as a rock (PTO Return from PTO Actuator - PTO Return from Implement - 1" Source hose from tank to filter).