PTO Problems

   / PTO Problems #21  
DHS said:
I had a similar problem couple years ago with my PTO solenoid. I believe the ignition switch, the wire to the switch, or the fuseholder would heat up and dropped the voltage to the PTO solenoid. When the switch got hot the lower voltage would only partially opened the solenoid. I bought a new solenoid from PT but that was not the problem. Rather than replace the switch, I installed a wire with a fuse from the battery post on the starter to the PTO switch. No more PTO solenoid problems. I intended to replace the switch but I have had no problems and it slips my mind.

Try powering the PTO solenoid directly from the battery. Best to use a wire with an inline fuse.

Dale

Dale, Do you still have your PTO switch wired direct? The reason that I am asking, is because I remember something about the PTO switch being wired up in a fail safe mode, otherwise, so one would not start the PT with power applied to the PTO switch , and cause the attachment motor to run as soon as the engine is running.

On my 1445, my PTO output, which is manually activated, and if left in the wrong position, could stall the engine, and cause a pump failure if dead headed, or the hydraulic motor would come on as soon as you start the engine.
 
   / PTO Problems #22  
woodlandfarms said:
The brittleness is so bad that when I straightened my driveline hoses to pull them through the outer shell cracked right off. You could hear everything creaking and groaning. The PTO hoses are no exception. Plan to replace them all once I can get this darn hose undone...
OK that can't be good..:eek:
 
   / PTO Problems #23  
woodlandfarms said:
The brittleness is so bad that when I straightened my driveline hoses to pull them through the outer shell cracked right off. You could hear everything creaking and groaning. The PTO hoses are no exception. Plan to replace them all once I can get this darn hose undone...

You need high temp pressure and suction hoses. They are a little more expensive and more difficult to find, but sounds like what you need. I'll post hose part #'s when I get to my shop. I'm waiting for my daughter to drag her but out of bed.
 
   / PTO Problems #24  
J_J said:
Dale, Do you still have your PTO switch wired direct? The reason that I am asking, is because I remember something about the PTO switch being wired up in a fail safe mode, otherwise, so one would not start the PT with power applied to the PTO switch , and cause the attachment motor to run as soon as the engine is running.

On my 1445, my PTO output, which is manually activated, and if left in the wrong position, could stall the engine, and cause a pump failure if dead headed, or the hydraulic motor would come on as soon as you start the engine.


JJ,

The way I have it wired does not allow the ignition switch to start the tractor with the PTO switch on. It does allow the PTO solenoid to be energized with the ignition switch off if the PTO switch is on. If the PTO switch is accidently left on it could drain the battery. The couple of years since the modification I have never drained the battery. The first time I do, I believe I will change the switch.

However, the problem could be a high resistance connection in the fuse holder or the wiring. Something caused a voltage drop to my PTO solenoid. I believe the additional PTO current flowing accross a higher resistance point causes it to heat and increase the resistance even higher which caused the voltage drop to everything on the downstream side of the high resitance point.

The voltage drop allowed the PTO solenoid to just barely open which allowed the mower to spin very slowly. The same problem existed with my tiller. Since I installed the jumper I have had no problems with the PTO.

You would think a retired guy would have all the time in the world to track down and fix his PT voltage problems. Sometimes it doesn't work out that way.

Dale
 
   / PTO Problems #25  
Wayne County Hose said:
You need high temp pressure and suction hoses. They are a little more expensive and more difficult to find, but sounds like what you need. I'll post hose part #'s when I get to my shop. I'm waiting for my daughter to drag her but out of bed.

Actually, after thinking about it, you would be better off with an oil cooler. High temp hoses would be expensive and would just put a band-aid on the real problem, oil that's too hot.
 
   / PTO Problems #26  
So far, my oil has not gotten over 170. But no extended bush hogging at 95° temps.

Ken
 
   / PTO Problems
  • Thread Starter
#27  
I don't think heat is the issue. This tractor did not run for at least 3 if not 5 years. In its restoration the hoses initually looked passible but were not.

It is also quite possible that it did run hot at one point (or at many points) as it was used in a professional mowing operation.

Carl
 
   / PTO Problems #28  
woodlandfarms said:
I don't think heat is the issue. This tractor did not run for at least 3 if not 5 years. In its restoration the hoses initually looked passible but were not.

It is also quite possible that it did run hot at one point (or at many points) as it was used in a professional mowing operation.

Carl
Carl,

I bought my 1845 new in May of 2003. The hydro link for the treadle was not yet yet introduced into production. My recollection, based on reports on this site, is that it was introduced the following year--2004. You have reported that your machine has the hydraulic connection for the treadle. That leads me to believe that it was built in 2004 or later.
 
   / PTO Problems
  • Thread Starter
#29  
The hose list I have is dated January 2003.

It would be interesting to get a historical timeline of PT Manufacturing process...

Will ask Terry on Monday as I look into some new bearings...
 
   / PTO Problems #30  
woodlandfarms said:
The hose list I have is dated January 2003.

It would be interesting to get a historical timeline of PT Manufacturing process...

Will ask Terry on Monday as I look into some new bearings...


Carl,

Are you sure there are bearings in the articulating joint. They could be replaceable bushings. They could also be steel against steel, with grease, much like the pin on a backhoe joint. I guess it could be considered a bearing. A tube rolling around a steel pin. Is that a bearing? Maybe. My 1445 bounces and clunks sometimes. It has been is use from the early 90's.
 

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