PTO Quick Connect

[Farmer495]

Guess I'm old school, no reason the normal setup doesn't work if properly maintained with grease, including the tractor stub.

Anytime I've had issues, it was on something new to me that I had to clean and lubricate.

I've had several brand new PTO shafts, i.e. had to cut to fit brand new, zero issues changing implements.

Wear gloves if you don't want to get your hands dirty.

 

[Dog Gone It]

Another thing to do is before you get near the tractor slide the PTO shaft back and forth and make sure it telescopes freely. Yes many times grit on the splines is the cause of the problem but if it takes a lot of force to telescope the shaft it greatly adds to difficulty of hooking things up.

Yes sir I always do.

I like the strap/bungee idea and must try that.

Better to mount your PTO implement on the Three Point Hitch, then raise the implement with TPH hydraulics until the PTO shaft is exactly level with the tractor PTO splines, so you can slide the PTO shaft straight on the tractor splines with the shaft and splines exactly aligned and level.

With a bungee, the shaft bobbles around and you still struggle to align PTO shaft and tractor splines.

Clean tractor male splines and clean PTO female fitting are also important. I use a Blaster solvent soak and a rag to clean about once per year. (I keep the rubber spline cover on when PTO is not in use and secure a feed bag around the female female fitting with a bungee to maintain both parts clean.)

Lube is important too. I use Boeshield wax lube regularly for male splines and female fitting. (There are many brands of wax lube.)
WD40 is OK but it is not primarily a lube. WD40 evaporates quickly from warm or hot parts.

All this does nothing to help with sliding back the coupler or pushing the button.

Connection does become easier as parts wear in.

Age: 73

Sounds great

The bungie cord takes the weight of the shaft so you're not trying to hold it up while lining up the splines. Even if you have the shaft level you still have to support it.

Some PTO shaft couplers with the push button release will slide a short ways onto the tractor's PTO stub before you need to push the button in. That lets you concentrate on getting the splines lined up without having to also hold the button in. Some folks here have taken the button mechanism apart and used a weaker spring to make it easier to operate. Some lube probably helps too.

My Branson's two speed PTO has a neutral position which allows the PTO stub to rotate freely. If yours has a two speed PTO it might work the same way.

Now that I understand what many are saying about the advantage of a bungee cord and I realized thats not what I need. I can start my pto on the spline just fine. Its pulling the collar back and continuing from that point thats the problem.

Here is a developed thread from the T-B-N ARCHIVE on your topic:

PTO Link - Anyone using it?

Does this thing work well? At $400 and another $225 per shaft for additional pieces, I want to know that this thing works as advertised and isn't just another piece of junk.

www.tractorbynet.com

I will check that out.

Guess I'm old school, no reason the normal setup doesn't work if properly maintained with grease, including the tractor stub.

Anytime I've had issues, it was on something new to me that I had to clean and lubricate.

I've had several brand new PTO shafts, i.e. had to cut to fit brand new, zero issues changing implements.

Wear gloves if you don't want to get your hands dirty.

Im old school too but was taught to be respectful of others and give the benefit of the doubt.


To everyone else thanks for all the help.

 

[ericm979]

The "pull the collar back" type PTO shaft latches are the hardest to operate. Swap it for one with a button or a collar that you twist.

It's best to leave politics out of posts here. We all have common interests here even if our politics differ.

 

[hube2]

Yep, the bungee only helps while getting the shaft started. Getting it lined up and started was the hardest part for me until I started using the bungee.

As I get older I am noticing that I'm loosing my grip and I imagine that eventually that pull back collar will give me a problem. I'm assuming that the PTO shaft will not last forever and I'll need to replace it. When I do I'll be looking at shafts with other types of mechanisms that are easier on the hands. The other end of my shaft that hooks to the attachment has a push button which is much easier to manage.

 

[Dog Gone It]

The "pull the collar back" type PTO shaft latches are the hardest to operate. Swap it for one with a button or a collar that you twist.

It's best to leave politics out of posts here. We all have common interests here even if our politics differ.

Agreed and done. It was obvious he didnt take the time to read all the posts.
Yes the spring loaded collar is a pain. Of course I never had a problem until after my injury.
I will consider the suggestion of a swap out if my idea doesnt pan out. Ive never done one before but Im guessing they are similar to any other universal joint.

Yep, the bungee only helps while getting the shaft started. Getting it lined up and started was the hardest part for me until I started using the bungee.

As I get older I am noticing that I'm loosing my grip and I imagine that eventually that pull back collar will give me a problem. I'm assuming that the PTO shaft will not last forever and I'll need to replace it. When I do I'll be looking at shafts with other types of mechanisms that are easier on the hands. The other end of my shaft that hooks to the attachment has a push button which is much easier to manage.

No doubt.
I was lucky to have my wife around the last couple of time to assist but my pride was slightly skewed when asking her to help.

 

[Williy]

Pat's quick connect on Amazon $214.99 plus
free delivery

willy

 

[Dog Gone It]

Pat's quick connect on Amazon $214.99 plus
free delivery

willy

Yes I currently have a set of those and they have been a blessing.
Its the pto quick connect Ive been contemplating.

 

[DieselBound]

If I ever need a new pto shaft I will check into these. I have to grease the shaft for my snow blower constantly with the number of hours I move snow, at least twice a week, and I have to take it off the tractor PTO to get to the zerk. It's a PITA to do it so much. Would be nice to eliminate that step.

I believe that you can get just the safety guards (retrofit): I needed new shafts, so bought as complete.

Note that these cannot make up for zerks that are outright positioned poorly. They can allow you to get access to the joints, but as to whether the zerks are accessible w/o decoupling is, unfortunately, another matter. I think that most people know what I'm talking about with regards to this.

 

[hube2]

I believe that you can get just the safety guards (retrofit): I needed new shafts, so bought as complete.

Note that these cannot make up for zerks that are outright positioned poorly. They can allow you to get access to the joints, but as to whether the zerks are accessible w/o decoupling is, unfortunately, another matter. I think that most people know what I'm talking about with regards to this.

Thanks, I will look into it, there is a dealer that carries them not far from me. The zerk on the tractor end points away from the tractor, I need to bend the joint to the side to get to it with the shield on. I'll look at it closer but I'm pretty sure that it would be easy to grease if I could slide it back. The angle of the zerk is one of the things that makes in impossible to grease attached to the tractor because it's pointing into the shield.

 

[LD48750]

Yep, the bungee only helps while getting the shaft started. Getting it lined up and started was the hardest part for me until I started using the bungee.

As I get older I am noticing that I'm loosing my grip and I imagine that eventually that pull back collar will give me a problem. I'm assuming that the PTO shaft will not last forever and I'll need to replace it. When I do I'll be looking at shafts with other types of mechanisms that are easier on the hands. The other end of my shaft that hooks to the attachment has a push button which is much easier to manage.

Take the shaft off & turn it around.
Put the button end to the tractor.

 

[TheMan419]

You must be having a lot more trouble connecting a PTO to consider spending $700 or more for three implements.

Will your PTO shafts accept closing up five inches, or will you have to shorten them?

or you know there are those of us with disabilities that in fact do have trouble with things you find easy. I hope you never find yourself in such a position. I also hope you find some compassion for your fellow man.

 

[LindaK]

I have it. As a small "ish" woman, I really liked it. But it broke! The splines that attach to the tractor chipped off. So, I didn't feel like it was worth the money.

 

[sunandsand]

"just not strong enough"

Me either (sometimes). I'm finding things that I need to do that take me to the absolute limit of my strength. The button on the tractor end of the PTO shaft is one. I've been able to do it, but it is NOT easy for me. I've used the level-it-with-3pt-hitch trick plus a bungee and the hook on the bush hog, but sometimes I just do not have enough strength in my hands to juggle the end of the PTO shaft, align the collar, press the (blankety blank) button and push it into place. I've cleaned and lubed the stub, and I use a dust sleeve on it when I'm not using a PTO driven attachment. I have also noticed the zerk fitting in the U joint is exactly backwards - the way it points now, I have to disconnect the PTO shaft to grease the zerk. Next time it is off, I'm going to reverse the U joint so the zerk points to the rear and I can lube it quickly and easily, with everything still attached.

I also cannot get the lock nut on the right side adjustable 3 point link to move. I can get a wrench on it (just), but beyond that, it flat isn't letting go. There's enough other "stuff" in the area so I need to be careful. If the wrench slips off while I am putting the grunt on it, I may damage other stuff, including myself.

In all fairness, these are actually very minor quibbles. I'm still very glad I bought the tractor and it has done a LOT of otherwise impossible work for me.

I think that since I am not a "big guy", that might be part of the problem. In three months, I'll be 75 (how the heck did THAT happen?) and am healthy, but I accept that I'll never be able to bench press a railroad locomotive. (Lionel maybe, but General Electric? No way.)

Best Regards,

Mike/Florida

 

[CoyPatton]

I looked into that and considering the distance my Pats Quick Hitch added, I dont believe so.

The lessened distance of the added coupler and the increased distance added by Pat’s QH should to some extend offset one another. The coupler means you need a shorter shaft, while Pat’s QH requires a longer shaft. Are they the same distance? I do not know!

 

[lpakiz]

I fabricated a small U clip out of 3/16 rod. I bet a piece of welding rod wouid work. One leg of the C is about an inch long, and the other leg is maybe 3/8” long. The main part of the C is whatever dimension it takes to hold the collar in the unlocked position.

Before I attempt to engage the splines, (and out in the open, where I can get at it easily) I hold the collar back to its unlocked position and place short leg of the clip over the front edge of the collar and the longer leg in behind the cross of the U-joint. This holds the collar back and unlocked until you can maneuver the shaft onto the splines.

Get the splines on PAST the point that it would lock, then dislodge the clip. The spring loaded collar tries to engage while you pull the shaft slowly back off. It will catch at the right place.

 

[oldpilot]

Yeah, the PTO is the most miserable chore of spring and fall. I finally had to get a socket extension so I could remove the shield on my Mahindra 1626. That helped a lot, but I still have to hire a lad with stronger hands than I to do the actual changeover. I'll be 90 in November, which may have something to do with it.

The brush hog is ten years old, but everything else was new last year, and still there's one quick-connect for the snow plow hydraulics that even the young lad has trouble with. Mahindra Baba is very badly designed, and the connection is placed where it's quite impossible to get a good grip on it.

 

[TheMan419]

"just not strong enough"

Me either (sometimes). I'm finding things that I need to do that take me to the absolute limit of my strength. The button on the tractor end of the PTO shaft is one. I've been able to do it, but it is NOT easy for me. I've used the level-it-with-3pt-hitch trick plus a bungee and the hook on the bush hog, but sometimes I just do not have enough strength in my hands to juggle the end of the PTO shaft, align the collar, press the (blankety blank) button and push it into place. I've cleaned and lubed the stub, and I use a dust sleeve on it when I'm not using a PTO driven attachment. I have also noticed the zerk fitting in the U joint is exactly backwards - the way it points now, I have to disconnect the PTO shaft to grease the zerk. Next time it is off, I'm going to reverse the U joint so the zerk points to the rear and I can lube it quickly and easily, with everything still attached.

I also cannot get the lock nut on the right side adjustable 3 point link to move. I can get a wrench on it (just), but beyond that, it flat isn't letting go. There's enough other "stuff" in the area so I need to be careful. If the wrench slips off while I am putting the grunt on it, I may damage other stuff, including myself.

In all fairness, these are actually very minor quibbles. I'm still very glad I bought the tractor and it has done a LOT of otherwise impossible work for me.

I think that since I am not a "big guy", that might be part of the problem. In three months, I'll be 75 (how the heck did THAT happen?) and am healthy, but I accept that I'll never be able to bench press a railroad locomotive. (Lionel maybe, but General Electric? No way.)

Best Regards,

Mike/Florida

one tip I use for the button is put a dime in the thumb of your glove. Use that thumb to press the button. Just that extra bit of rigidity from the dime help a ton.

 

[N7HEVN]

Hi all.
I've been contemplating one of these for over a year as well. Have just been keeping my 72" mower attached, since it's too cumbersome to take on / off.

As someone noted in an alternate reply (or it may have been one of the other linked forum discussions), a reference to this situation being difficult, is having a Quick Connect on... Holy-moly, that thing is just difficult to get your arms / body around, when trying to get the PTO connected, it definitely adds a physical impedance of 'in the way', that I believe many of the people replying and commenting about "you're just making it harder than it has to be", are overlooking.

A couple items I'd like to throw out for consideration / discussion, and see if anyone has thoughts on -
1) The property I bought, is in eastern Oklahoma, and it is the land of ROCKS....... I have some hesitation that these add-on PTO items to make it easer for connect / disconnect, if I hit some big stinking rock(s) that I couldn't see in the grass and junk growth, is this device going to hold up to that beating over time? Yes, I know the mower blades are supposed to take that impact, and the stump jumper underneath too, but you just never know how much the impact(s) could play on these add-on parts.
2) The two primary vendor products that have been mentioned, are quite different in their design (one with four holes, one with a more gear-like interlock). I noticed someone mentioned that they have concerns about rust / corrosion, etc, building up, in the metal-to-metal contact. That jumped out to me as well, that there's no reference from the vendors, to putting any kind of lubricant or similar product, to keep the metal pieces from getting worn, and end up potentially trying to seize up. Any others have thoughts about that?

This is my first tractor, and land (owned now for 2 years, for retirement in about 10 years), so I'm not a well-skilled guy like many of you may be, growing up on a farm, having your property for years, etc. I just have enough time from work to get there (3 hours away), mow to keep the scrub and stuff from getting out of hand.
I do admit, the PTO difficulties has been a bane of mine, and has been such a pain in the butt, that I just keep the mower on. If the PTO was easier to handle, I'd keep the mower in the workshop, and not drag it around on the tractor all the time.
...A small caveat worth noting on my situation too though, is the rocks. So, I decided to keep the mower attached, as rear extra weight / ballast, when loading up the bucket, and hauling the rocks to a dump spot...

Sorry for the long-write, just always like to explain myself properly.
Happy Memorial Day to everyone!

 

[ericm979]

I don't know if it's true of all PTO shafts but mine (all button type) will engage with the splines before the button is pushed in. Its only a little bit, maybe 3mm. But its enough to feel that the splines are engaged by rotating the PTO stub with one hand. Then I can push the button in and slide the coupler on the rest of the way.

Some folks here have disassembled their PTO shaft coupler to get at the spring that holds the button out and replace it with a less stiff one.

 

[swamphouse]

Anyone have first hand experience that can suggest one over the other for ease of use ?
or suggesting a different manufacturer.
Thanks

Easy PTO quick connect for tractor attachments

Has it ever been easy to hook up a tractor's PTO shaft? It is now! The PTO Link™ system turns a difficult and time consuming process into an easy task.

tractorptolink.com

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I have Titan PTO Quick connect. I've been using it for a while. I find very disappointing the way they are designed. Personally for me using it was more frustrating than without it. I removed it and take my time connecting using just arm links which doesn't take much more time, at least you can tighten your implements properly unlike using Quick connect. If it was something like front FEL Quick attach system I probably would reconsider.