PTO shaft stuck/jammed on tractor

[Keith_B]

Man, I am learning more than I really want to know about PTO shafts. I have located a twist release style PTO shaft on Ebay for $94 complete plus 20 for shipping. If I value my time at about 25 cents an hour it still might be cheaper to just replace the whole thing. Hate to see a piece of equipment with one small busted part turned to junk however.

I'd go with a different type of release. The push button quick disconnect is a tried and true system, and is very easy to use. I have that system on the rotary cutter I use, and on my PHD. You can push the button while guiding the yoke onto the PTO shaft or when you remove it from the shaft. The styles where you have to pull back or twist a ring to release are not as easy to use.

 

[RoyJackson]

Not much doubt that this is the "root cause" of my problem. I used the cutter/shaft combo for two years without trouble just as prepared by the dealer. It clearly needs to be a bit shorter though and the next PTO shaft will be.

That's an interesting comment. Apparently, you drove across a "V" shaped ditch which bottomed out the PTO shaft. Is this the first time you did that or drove across that ditch?

So, have you removed the jammed shaft yet?

 

[IslandTractor]

That's an interesting comment. Apparently, you drove across a "V" shaped ditch which bottomed out the PTO shaft. Is this the first time you did that or drove across that ditch?

So, have you removed the jammed shaft yet?

Well, I got the shaft off and did so without needing to destroy it. In fact, the simple removal of the PTO shield allowed me access to get a small crowbar (10" Wonderbar actually...flat style with 90 degree bend). I found that with moderate pressure I could move the coupler back towards the normal position (about 1.5 inches back) until the ball bearings were in the appropriate channel. At that point I was able to remove the shaft manually as designed. On inspection, there are 4 balls (only one was evident in the photo I posted) and all were jammed and had deformed the retainer plate a bit. I found that I can rotate the retainer ring so that the balls do not meet the deformed area and can operate the coupler normally. It also looks like by removing a retainer ring I can remove the deformed plate which is a very simple 3x3 inch approx 10 gauge plate with a 1 3/8 inch cut out. I haven't done that yet but might do so just to heat and bend the deformed areas back to normal.

I cut 2 inches off each end of the PTO shaft after measuring the operational distance from tractor PTO to gear box PTO and that should leave at least 7-8 inches still as an overlap. The shaft did not look like it had been cut before so the original dealer must not have bothered to optomize the shaft length for my tractor. I had never thought to ask that question of the dealer and don't know what the industry standard is for that sort of fine tuning. I know that I never bothered measuring even though I routinely greased and checked the PTO.

Regarding how the PTO shaft got jammed and to answer Roy's question about whether I'd ever driven across the ditch before, the answer is no. I use my tractor mostly to maintain preservation land that surrounds my home essentially to keep a Colonial era farm pasture from being completely swallowed by Mother Nature and invasive species. I can see easily where I am going and there are no big ditches. Last week I was asked to lend a hand at a nearby farm that has been bought by the perservation trust. They have about 7-8 acres of former fields that are pretty badly overgrown after 5-6 years of neglect. As I was mowing in 4 foot grass and brush with the loader feeling the way, I drove across a depression that wasn't really a ditch but was enough of a depression that I think the mower "V'd" with the tractor and shoved the PTO shaft forward jamming it. It wasn't enough to stop or stall the tractor but I definitely remembered the spot and saw the scalp marks. Everything still worked fine and I continued to cut. It wasn't until I came home and tried to take off the cutter PTO shaft that I realized I had a problem.

So, bottom line: I did not need to disassemble the coupler or universal joint. The only damage to the shaft is the retainer ring for the spring loaded retainer balls. I think I can either repair that with a little heat and hammer. The grease zirk for the universal joint did get knocked off somehow and given that it is an Italian PTO shaft I presume I'll need to track down metrick zirks. Luckily I had just greased it before the mowing job so it is OK for now.

I now know more about PTO shafts than I'd ever imagined would be necessary and must thank all of you who gave advice and explained the various options. I hope this thread is useful to the next poor slob who manages to jam their PTO shaft.

 

[RoyJackson]

Another happy conclusion for a TBNer!!!!

Good job!!!

However, I do think we can milk this thread for at least another page...

 

[IslandTractor]

However, I do think we can milk this thread for at least another page...

Well, know that you're challenging us....how many folks actually measure their PTOs and make the 1-3 inch adjustments by cutting each side and cutting the PTO safety shield etc. I must admit that I assumed the dealer had done this already (I bought the cutter and tractor together). I won't make that assumption again but wonder what the industry standard is and how many TBNers routinely optomize PTO shaft length when they get a new implement.

 

[RoyJackson]

Well, know that you're challenging us....how many folks actually measure their PTOs and make the 1-3 inch adjustments by cutting each side and cutting the PTO safety shield etc. I must admit that I assumed the dealer had done this already (I bought the cutter and tractor together). I won't make that assumption again but wonder what the industry standard is and how many TBNers routinely optomize PTO shaft length when they get a new implement.

I'll be honest...I haven't touched the two PTO shafts I have other then grease and such.
Since I added a Pat's Easy Change, I'm actually more concerned they may be too short (not enough overlap) then too long.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Another happy conclusion for a TBNer!!!!

Good job!!!

However, I do think we can milk this thread for at least another page...

Just ONE page? Why, we haven't even touched upon what COLOR the tractor is, what brand of mower, if the ROPS had been altered causing PTO issues, why loaded tires would or wouldn't have made a difference, insurance liability for future users of the mower, what sort of fuel can was used to fuel the tractor before (and after) the shaft crisis, if removing the PTO shield even for a simple repair will void the warranty, OR.... was it the DEALERS FAULT or the manufacturers fault?

We could milk 30 pages out of this, no sweat!

 

[IslandTractor]

Just ONE page? Why, we haven't even touched upon what COLOR the tractor is, what brand of mower, if the ROPS had been altered causing PTO issues, why loaded tires would or wouldn't have made a difference, insurance liability for future users of the mower, what sort of fuel can was used to fuel the tractor before (and after) the shaft crisis, if removing the PTO shield even for a simple repair will void the warranty, OR.... was it the DEALERS FAULT or the manufacturers fault?

We could milk 30 pages out of this, no sweat!

It appears that FWJ is still fiesty after his latest MF vs Mahindra post.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

It appears that FWJ is still fiesty after his latest MF vs Mahindra post.

You wanna make somethin' of it ? I'm ready to go a couple rounds! I may be the only person I know that DELIBERATELY gets up on the wrong side of the bed.

That's more of a 27 HP vs, 34 hp debate than brand vs. brand as I see it. Seems I stepped on a toe or 3 though.

 

[Cacinok]

islandtractor, good to hear it was a relatively easy fix. i for one was not aware of the need to shorten pto shafts. thanks for educating me w/ your experience.

lol @ farmw/junk.