PTO shaft stuck on tractor

[pmsmechanic]

Well by now I wouldn't be patient anymore as my thought's would be along the line of once this thing is off it's not going back on. I would take a zip cut wheel on an angle grinder and cut the collar off and what ever else is necessary to remove the yoke. New yokes for compact utility sized equipment are not that expensive.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Well by now I wouldn't be patient anymore as my thought's would be along the line of once this thing is off it's not going back on. I would take a zip cut wheel on an angle grinder and cut the collar off and what ever else is necessary to remove the yoke. New yokes for compact utility sized equipment are not that expensive.

This seems to be an overly severe solution. If the OP could take some pictures of the tractor end of the PTO we might be able to identify the brand and give more information. Just a guessing game this far.

Agree with above suggestion to lube up the quick connect, engage the PTO for a minute or two. With PTO still engaged, shut off tractor, which will hold the tractor PTO shaft from rotating. Then, with both hands, pull back on the collar, and hopefully the coupling will come off.

With some good pictures, we could evaluate if the cover over the tractor end u-joint could be disconnected and slid back, exposing the u-joint. Separate the u-joint and the OP will have good access to surmise the problem.

Really early to start chopping on the PTO with a grinder?

I used to get really impatient dealing with issues on used equipment but, learned to step back, take a deep breath, and re-evaluate the situation. Not everything can be fixed with a 10# sledge hammer.

Still betting that the collar has to be pulled toward the implement to release.

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[newbury]

Another thing to try is heat.
Take a PROPANE torch (not MAPP) with a wide flame and heat it up a bit, not red hot but just so you can get stuff moving.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I'm thinking as a mechanic that bills his time out. If I spend more than an hour working on this yoke to take it off it's cheaper for my customer to have me install a new one. Granted it might be something simple but once the yoke is off do you really want to take the chance of it sticking again. If you use heat be careful of the seal on the pto shaft going into the tractor.

 

[newbury]

I'm thinking as a mechanic that bills his time out. If I spend more than an hour working on this yoke to take it off it's cheaper for my customer to have me install a new one. <snip>

The guy that "fixed" my u-joint on my dually thought the same way. Instead of soaking it overnight and trying to pound it off he just cut it off, said it would be cheaper than an hour's labor. Then found out that he couldn't get a replacement and it took 2 weeks for the dip to get in a new driveshaft and cost over a $1,000.

Make sure you have a replacement part in hand before you destroy the original part.











'

 

[pmsmechanic]

Ok Newbury fair enough and a good point.

Just remember though there is a huge difference between a proprietary driveshaft yoke and a common 540 pto one in terms of price and availability. Unless I've missed something we're talking about a tractor pto not a truck driveshaft.

Don't forget that the original part is already being rather uncooperative and in my mind it's garbage or very close to it. I can understand your frustration with your "dip" but lets say I can get it off for a customer and I manage to salvage the yoke. Two weeks later the same issue comes up again and I'm supposed to "fix" it again only this time under warranty. I've been there and believe me by that time nobody is happy.

It'll be interesting to find out what the actual reason is for the yoke being stuck. I think it'll be one of three reasons. The splines are worn and have a "hook" in them and I've run into this quite often. The balls are rusty or full of junk. Or the slip part of the pto shaft isn't slipping.

 

[Dingeryote]

Just a suggestion.

Unhook the tiller, and pull forward to seperate the shaft.

That way you have more room to wiggle, and swing a dead blow hammer.

It will come off.

I'm in the camp with the pull BACK on the collar. I have several Woods impliments and they have always been pull collars.
Yes, they can be a PITA now and then. Use the dead blow on the shaft to tap it forward, and break loose any rust.
Just get all pittbull on the thing, and cuss more.
Dirt gets to flying and sticks to grease in the wrong places and binds things up. Usually about the time the Skeeters show up to take advantage of your distraction.

Good luck!!

 

[hr3]

Thanks all I got it finely Dingeryote convinced me when he said he had several Woods implements in his stable,, It was a pull back,, I was pushing on the plastic ring that hold the return spring..

Again thanks too all,,

 

[Gary Fowler]

Glad to see you finally decided to go a different direction with the collar. Maybe you should take a paint marker and write PULL BACK TO RELEASE on the drive shaft.

 

[GPintheMitten]

I think with this episode behind him, he'll remember without printing a sign on the shaft.