Pulling out shrubs safely

[LHS Inc]

I'd like to safely pull out some good size shrubs this week with my JD 3520. I plan on having the FEL on and a 72" HD scrape blade on back. I will pull with the drawbar and slip hook chain. I will dig around each plant to cut some of the roots and pull on level ground. I probably wouldn't seek any advice but after reading some of the stories on TBN I'll take any advice on the subject. This is my first compact tractor. I have always used 100 hp + tractors on the farm without any problems of tipping or rollovers as the compact tractors are prone to do. ROPS are always up and the seat belt is fastened at all times with common sense ruling the day. I'd send some pics if I knew how to post them, I'll take pointers on that too. Thanks

 

[k0ua]

You should be good to go, pull from the drawbar. (not the 3pt hitch) but the solid drawbar below the axle. Also if the shrubs are small you can use the FEL to pull straight up on them with a chain. Just be aware of lifting the rear tires. try to center the chain around the bucket, and centered over the shrub.. Just use common sense. If you can get the 3pt hitch right over the shrub, and pull straight up, that is ok too. again use common sense, go slow, and be ready to reverse course in what ever way you do it. Just dont pull horizontally from your 3pt top link or something dumb like that. The leverage is all against you, and the front end can come up. Think through every operation and you will be fine.
( I aint turned one over yet, but not for lack of trying)
James K0UA

 

[kennyd]

A neat rick I read about is to use a old truck rim. You hook the chain onto the plant/shrub then OVER the rim then to the drawbar. This allows the tension to be placed in a upward direction to help pull it out.

 

[Zebrafive]

Unless the ground is real hard, or the shrubs real big, I don't think you will need to do any digging or root cutting. Use a strong enough chain. :thumbsup:

 

[RoyJackson]

A neat rick I read about is to use a old truck rim. You hook the chain onto the plant/shrub then OVER the rim then to the drawbar. This allows the tension to be placed in a upward direction to help pull it out.

I'll remember that one...it's a good idea.

Now mine (which has been posted on TBN before):
Get an old firehose (if you live around a volunteer firehall, shouldn't be a problem) and thread the chain (works with cable too) through it.
The hose is stiff enough to prevent the chain (or cable) from snapping back if it slips or parts when under tension.

 

[FarmerSam]

I recently took up some shrubs and a small River Birch tree using my loader with a "Quick Spade" attachment which is basically a heavy dty shovel that mounts on your loader. You can do a google on "quick spade" and get more info in you're interested.

 

[beenthere]

LHS
Good comments you have received from others.
I'd like to just add that you want to avoid the temptation to back up and get a run at it, to try to jerk the shrub out. That is when things go awry, and even break or get out of control.

I've a 4300 and I remove a lot of 30+ ft spruce trees with my forks primarily. I stab into the ground each side and curl the forks up to sever the roots. They are long and tough. When I have several broken off, I push on the tree about 5-6' up and usually the root ball will roll out when the tree tips over. Then I put the forks under the root ball and lift while pushing. That usually does the trick. I then shake as much dirt off the rootball as possible and drag the tree off to the brush pile. Rabbits think it is a large safe castle for them where the coyotes can't get them.
I'm leaving the red oak interplanted between the spruce, and will be done when I remove about a thousand more.

 

[NOTV8]

I'm leaving the red oak interplanted between the spruce, and will be done when I remove about a thousand more. [/QUOTE]

I wish you're a little closer... I'll help you dig it out so I can plant it on mine.

 

[Johno Geo]

I am with you NOTV8 !
I love Blue Spruce (Colorado Spruce)!
A 30ft tree costs a bundle and when you transplant a more than 8ft tall the survival rate goes way down, according to the Arborists I have spoken with.
I guess... One mans Jewel is anothers trash......

 

[tglass]

I'll remember that one...it's a good idea.

Now mine (which has been posted on TBN before):
Get an old firehose (if you live around a volunteer firehall, shouldn't be a problem) and thread the chain (works with cable too) through it.
The hose is stiff enough to prevent the chain (or cable) from snapping back if it slips or parts when under tension.

Never thought of that, and a good safety tip. People like me never think about the when things go wrong and usually do part.

 

[Eric102]

If you can get to the shrub or small tree with your tractor, forks are by far the quickest/easiest way to get them out of the ground. As mentioned above just stab the forks under the root ball and curl, the bush will usually pop out of the ground without any digging and you can haul it away on the forks without ever getting off the tractor to mess around with chains, shovels, etc.

I love my forks! My most used attachment other than the bucket.

 

[LHS Inc]

If you can get to the shrub or small tree with your tractor, forks are by far the quickest/easiest way to get them out of the ground. As mentioned above just stab the forks under the root ball and curl, the bush will usually pop out of the ground without any digging and you can haul it away on the forks without ever getting off the tractor to mess around with chains, shovels, etc.

I love my forks! My most used attachment other than the bucket.

Sounds like a good idea. I'll have to look into getting some forks. I assume you're talking about the quick attach to the FEL kind.

 

[bigtiller]

After reeding a long thread here a while back, I made this "A" frame from angle iron. It is about 4 feet tall and works the same way as Kennyd's truck rim would. If I ever make another one it will be about 6 foot tall so I can get a longer pull before removing the slack out of the chain.

 

[Big Wave D]

If you have hooks welded welded onto your bucket and depending on their style, I put the bucket in its full dump/down position, put your chain around base of shrub, get lip of bucket as close to shrubs base as possible, then hook as tightly to your bucket as possible, then use the bucket's controls to roll/push on the shrub at the same time by curling your bucket up.

It's sort of a double whammy. The chain is pulling up and back while the bucket edge is pushing forward and over.

The size of your obstacle dictates whether your hydraulics alone can do the job.

If not, then go with what the others have previously mentioned. They all have their time and place where one method seems to work better than the others.

Good luck on your project.

 

[Eric102]

Sounds like a good idea. I'll have to look into getting some forks. I assume you're talking about the quick attach to the FEL kind.

Yep, I've got the Frontier AL1240 for my 3320. Takes about a minute to remove the bucket and attach the fork assembly.

 

[chickenman]

i pulled out some small trees by cutting a piece of pipe large enough to slip the chain through and back in and hooking the chain to the other end so a loop of chain could be put around the tree and when pulled the chain tightens around the tree/bush

you get a better grip on the bush that way

 

[nforktractor]

I can't find it now, but I remember seeing a company on here that sold a chain, which had a scissors type of clamp with teeth, and the harder you pulled with your tractor the tighter grip it got on the shrub, does anybody know what I am talking about?

 

[SandburRanch]

I can't find it now, but I remember seeing a company on here that sold a chain, which had a scissors type of clamp with teeth, and the harder you pulled with your tractor the tighter grip it got on the shrub, does anybody know what I am talking about?

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Those have been posted on here somewhere but save yourself the aggravation and tie a clove hitch knot around it in 10 seconds or less using the two loop method.

Another advantage is I don't have to find another tool I forgot where is.

 

[rco]

I can't find it now, but I remember seeing a company on here that sold a chain, which had a scissors type of clamp with teeth, and the harder you pulled with your tractor the tighter grip it got on the shrub, does anybody know what I am talking about?

I saw those at Northern Tool and they are listed under log skidding on the web site. ( Log Hooks + Log Skidding Tools | Logging Accessories | Logging | Northern Tool + Equipment ) If I'm not supposed to post that, just tell me and I'll remove it.

Personally, I find that if I cut off the tree/shrub with a few feet sticking out of the ground for extra leverage, and then double wrap the chain so that when I put pressure on it, it digs itself into the wood I do just fine. That is assuming I actually have enough power and traction to pull the tree/shrub. And I know it's already been stated, but don't yank it, unless you like the idea of the chain upside the head. :confused2: