Pulling with the Drawbar

[Caretaker]

I'm pretty new at tractoring, and I need some guidance on pulling with the drawbar. I've read some of the other posts about safety, and I seem to recall a couple of folks talking about pulling out stumps, etc. with a chain hitched to the drawbar.

My understanding is that one should never hook something to the drawbar that has any chance of not coming loose - because the high torque of a tractor can cause it to flip over faster than you can think about it! I believe I also read that one doesn't loop a chain around the rear axle for the same reason. As I recall, an old farmer told me that the proper way to pull something that might not want to give is to hook the chain to the front tow point, with the said tow point being tied permanently to the frame. Am I disremembering here?

My uneducated understanding is that the drawbar is reserved for pulling implements ONLY, those not designed for 3-Pt mount. But, the more I can do with my tractor, the more valuable it is to me - I'm up to 10 different implements and counting. As a wise person once said - "Learn the Rules so that you know WHEN and HOW you can break them, and get away with it".

These safety posts have been very useful so far. I blush now as I think of operating the FEL joystick from beside the tractor, instead of having my ignorant rear-end firmly planted in the seat! And far worse, my tendency to try to wear out the rockshaft control while standing beside the 3-Pt implement. At least I am consistent about wearing the seatbelt and trusting the ROPS, and I do stay out from underneath lifted buckets. Good thing that someone usually watches out for fools!

Any thoughts, suggestions, experiences ?

 

[Thomas]

Caretaker,
When pulling stumps etc..and do to the circumstances a rule of thumb should always be common sense,so if your not sure than don't try it.

Chain around the axle for pulling, /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif one asking for trouble far as damage to the tractor also themselves.

Stump..stone etc.. when pulling out w/ the draw bar I like to use a short hitch,but thats after I loosen the object up or cut it free and I never jerk the tractor hard.

The older tractor like Farmall C&H&M with the trike front end were known to raise the front end,and most of the time the front end would go to one side or another,and yes over backwards or even roll. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

I wouldn't put and object free w/ the front end,I would rather use the FEL instead....but thats just me. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

I agree its the on lookers than can cause one to take a deep breath sometimes. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

We all learn one way or another about tractor safety,and still will until the day come we can no longer turn the key or the crank. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Kick back and relax enjoy the evening.


Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[Bird]

Caretaker, the drawbar is exactly what I use to pull hard (stumps, dragging heavy items like logs, etc). At least theoretically, if the rear wheels have enough traction, the tractor could rear up and go over backwards, but I consider that to be a very remote possibility when using the drawbar, which is below the centerline of the rear axle. Instead of rearing up, if the tractor can't pull it, I just spin the wheels. Of course, I do use a slow steady pull, not a jerking motion, and could stop quickly if the front end tried to raise up. There are lots of warnings about using the 3-point hitch to pull by, and that's primarily because if the hitch is raised, then you would be pulling from a point above the centerline of the axle and greatly increase the probability of the tractor front end coming up.

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Caretaker: Bird is correct. I have pulled lots of things both stationary and mobile with the drawbar. Your tractor will not flip over backwards. Look at the guys at tractor pulls. Tremendous horsepower and speed. They don't flip over backwards. Usually the worst thing situation when pulling with the drawbar is wheel hop. The back tire in some situations will begin to spin and hop. This can create a wild ride and the rear end will begin to bounce. This is stopped by disengaging the transmission (ie push in clutch, quit pushing on hydrostat). If the hop continues, you could lose control, be thrown off the tractor, break your transmission or drawbar etc. It is not wise to hitch to your lift arms or any point higher than the drawbar. Drawbars are made for pulling.

 

[gordon]

Ditto that!!! As usual Bird hit the nail on the head./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

If your going to be doing any kind of heavy pulling make sure to use a good high grade chain!!! Go slow and safe.
Gordon

 

[TomG]

I use a 1" clevis to hook chain to the drawbar. I took the top plate off the drawbar so I just have the bar and 1" holes in the bar. Putting a clevis in the bar gives me a good steel loop to run chain through. I secure the clevis end of the chain with a grab hook, and what goes on the other end of the chain depends on what I'm pulling.

Almost everybody around here has a story about hooking up their tractor at some convenient point other than the drawbar and having the tractor ‘rareup’ looking to do them in. Usually I just leave the clevis on the drawbar so I’m not tempted to pull with anything else.

 

[MarkV]

Help me with some terms. I refer to a draw bar as one that works like a reciever hitch mounted below the 3pt at the rear of the tractor. I have also heard people refer to a draw bar as one that mounts between the lower arms of the 3pt and has various holes for mounting/hooking what ever. What is the proper name for the later type of bar?

 

[Bird]

Therein lies the problem, MarkV./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Because they are both called "drawbars". I've noticed in their catalog, Tractor Supply Co. calls the one that goes between the lower links of the 3-point a "cross drawbar." I've also heard them referred to as the "3-point drawbar" vs. the regular drawbar.

Bird

 

[TomG]

The drawbar is the one mounted below and between the 3ph lower arms. There usually is a plate that provides a slot to receive the tongues of pulled implements and two holes for a pin. Most drawbars have two positions. The first position is 'retracted,' and is the position that is usually seen. The drawbar also may be extended a foot or so to accommodate pulled implements that require PTO power.

I'm not sure what the device that goes between the hitch arms should be called--3ph-drawbar maybe. The devices can be convenient since the hitch can be used to lift or level a load. However, pulling from the 3ph is not as safe as with the drawbar. It's a matter of geometry. Hitch arms attach above the rear axle. No matter how low the hitch is, a load on the 3ph arms still can have the leverage to lift the front wheels when the load is pulled. Pulling with the drawbar tends to force the front wheels down since the attachment is below the axles. The issue here is the pulling force, not just the weight of the load. The safety issue becomes apparent if a pulled load on a 3ph gets hung up. The forces tend to pull the rear wheels down, giving even more traction, and the tractor winds itself up on its own axles. It only takes a half turn of the rear wheels to flip a tractor, and it can happen real fast.

 

[Caretaker]

Thanks for the replies, everyone - very helpful! I see what you're saying about the original drawbar - yepper, it's below the axles of the tractor, and if you tie it to something nice and low, you're gonna tend to pull the tractor down against the ground. I also have one of the "Cross Drawbars", which I've added a 2" receiver to, for pulling a small dumpcart and small trailer - BUT NOT FOR STUMPS. So far so good...

Thanks again for the replies.
Dave Wells