Purchasing a 1023e. Need attachments help.

[Noodlez914]

Hello everyone.

I am about to pull the trigger on purchasing my first SCUT. I have a home with lots of property with lots of chores and ideas but I also have a budget, so my wife will not allow me to buy every attachment John Deere offers (although I would like to).

I am definitely purchasing the Bucket and mower deck, thats a given. But here is where I am on the fence and hope some people that have been doing this forever can help me....

My projects for the immediate and far future are as follows: Moving some dirt around and reshaping a back area of my home. Not major earth moving, just leveling down uneven areas, filling in ruts, moving brush, leaves and rocks etc. Moving snow in the winter. Have a huge snowblower but wouldn't mind using the tractor as well. Have very wooded property that has rutted trails to fix as well as wanting to make some new trails. I cut my own firewood, so i need to go in and out of the woods. Will also be moving some nice size boulders out of areas of the property.

With all that in mind and you had to choose a 3rd attachment (already will have bucket and mower) what would you go with? Rear rake, Rear Blade, or something else I am not aware of??

Any input would be helpful. I am new to this and want to make every cent worth it that I spend on this tractor and utilize its full potential.

 

[stlbill]

A box blade.

Also consider a rear blade for snow, but you may get too much snow for a rear blade to be practical. I guess it all depends on how fast it comes down and how much time you have to plow.

What are you using for ballast with the loader?

 

[engine29]

Agree, box blade.

 

[Martian]

Moving some dirt around and reshaping a back area of my home. Not major earth moving, just leveling down uneven areas, filling in ruts, moving brush, leaves and rocks etc.

The best attachment for leveling land is a box blade, the best for brush is a grapple, but I'm not sure if you can get a grapple on a 1000 series. I think, as long as it's only minor brush/leaves, pulling it around by hand/rake would be fine. There's no one implement to do both of these jobs, though. I would definitely go for the box blade, though.

Have a huge snowblower but wouldn't mind using the tractor as well.

How deep is your snow? For up to under a foot average, I think a rear blade works great, over that you'd need a blower for the tractor.

Have very wooded property that has rutted trails to fix as well as wanting to make some new trails.

The best for this is a box blade as well, as I mentioned above.

I cut my own firewood, so i need to go in and out of the woods.

A set of pallet forks with a custom pallet set up would be nice to move the wood. Plenty of people have done that on here.

Will also be moving some nice size boulders out of areas of the property.

By good size what do you mean? Your best luck to move a bolder would be slipping it on some pallet forks, but they can be heavy and if they get to big your best bet is to rent a larger machine for a weekend to clean them out.

With all that in mind and you had to choose a 3rd attachment (already will have bucket and mower) what would you go with? Rear rake, Rear Blade, or something else I am not aware of??

I think your best option for one other attachment is a box blade as it fits a lot of what you need to do and works as a great ballast. I would look into a set of pallet forks as well as they are very handy.

 

[tjwoody]

If you are planning to do any digging you might consider a toothbar for the loader.

 

[Noodlez914]

Hey thanks everyone for all the input. Well I am definitely gonna look into a Box Blade for sure then. I don't know why I thought a box blade was just for grooming gravel. Our winters are pretty brutal (except this one). East of Lake Ontario snow belt. I figured a tractor bucket or rear blade wasn't the best for snow removal but figured it could be put to use. Especially when the snow mounds start to mount up, figure i could use the loader then. The ballast I'm getting is the John Deere one. I will look into the tooth bar as well. I guess I will learn as time goes on what the most effective tools for the job.

 

[s219]

If you are going to be driving in the woods on rutted roads or chasing firewood as you say, you may want a tractor with more ground clearance. I was very serious about the JD 1023E/1026R, and came close to buying one, but ended up going with something a little bigger with a lot more ground clearance. And let me tell you, in the woods, that makes a huge difference. I have been doing a lot of firewood cutting in the last few weeks, and appreciate every bit of that extra ground clearance. I think I would have been cramped with the 1023/1026 -- they're just too low to the ground with tires that are too low profile. These tractors are really intended for working on land that has already been cleared/improved.

 

[Sawdust102]

Pallet forks I think are a must. Great for moving brush. And with a pallet firewood too.

Look into the 1026r too. You are getting a better tractor with a little more HP and for very little extra. The extra lights I am sure would serve you well in the woods.

You could also look into a rear blower if you feel you need it for the snow.

 

[Noodlez914]

If you are going to be driving in the woods on rutted roads or chasing firewood as you say, you may want a tractor with more ground clearance. I was very serious about the JD 1023E/1026R, and came close to buying one, but ended up going with something a little bigger with a lot more ground clearance. And let me tell you, in the woods, that makes a huge difference. I have been doing a lot of firewood cutting in the last few weeks, and appreciate every bit of that extra ground clearance. I think I would have been cramped with the 1023/1026 -- they're just too low to the ground with tires that are too low profile. These tractors are really intended for working on land that has already been cleared/improved.

Well these rutted trails I am hoping to clean up so I won't be dealing with constant rutted trails. And going into the woods and having clearance issues will only be about 10% of what the tractor will be used for. I am trying to balance a very complex scale. I have looked at other tractors a step up (Which really go above my price range) And they just seem too big and the tires seem like they would really put a hurting on my lawn. And cutting the lawn with it will be very often. I know that there is no magic bullet of a tractor that will fulfill the exact needs for what I want so it seems like the 1023e so far seems like the one. As far as the 1026R...... I feel like i am shelling out 1,000 extra for 2 more HP. Seems like everything else are just luxury items and I have no plans to be working in the dark. At the end of the day I need a tractor that will cut a pretty soft lawn as well as handling some dirty tasks.

 

[s219]

Well these rutted trails I am hoping to clean up so I won't be dealing with constant rutted trails. And going into the woods and having clearance issues will only be about 10% of what the tractor will be used for. I am trying to balance a very complex scale. I have looked at other tractors a step up (Which really go above my price range) And they just seem too big and the tires seem like they would really put a hurting on my lawn. And cutting the lawn with it will be very often. I know that there is no magic bullet of a tractor that will fulfill the exact needs for what I want so it seems like the 1023e so far seems like the one. As far as the 1026R...... I feel like i am shelling out 1,000 extra for 2 more HP. Seems like everything else are just luxury items and I have no plans to be working in the dark. At the end of the day I need a tractor that will cut a pretty soft lawn as well as handling some dirty tasks.

There are some really worthwhile upgrades in the 1026R -- in fact the engine horsepower is really only a minor detail.

I had started looking at the 1023E for the price, but realized the 1026R is a better value when you consider all the extra features. The big ones are position control on the 3PH, cruise control, more PTO power, and *much* better seat (the one on the 1023E is worse than what I have on my 10 year old Deere riding mower). If you consider this to be a long term purchase, then I'd strongly urge you to consider the 1026R.

The only problem then is that puts you in a price range where larger compacts are viable options too, so be careful before spiraling out of control. I got a price quote of $14600 for a 1026R with H120 loader, and suddenly the Kubota B2620+loader at $14700 was the better choice (I ultimately went with the B2920+loader for $15400 to get extra PTO horsepower).

I do think the sub-compact 1023/1026 will be better mowers than a compact would be, but be sure to consider turf tires if hurting the lawn is a big factor. The 1023/1026 ship with R4 tires, no different than many larger tractors. Generally the tire pressure (which goes hand in hand with tractor weight and tire footprint) is going to tell you how a particular tractor will do for lawn damage with a given tire type, so it's entirely possible a larger tractor with bigger tires would do less damage!

The R4s on my B2920 do fine on my fescue lawn, but have torn up the field behind my yard a little bit, where the ground cover is not as consistent (who would've thought a fescue lawn would be hardier than a field -- not me). So factor in your grass type and lawn condition when thinking about tires. For my uses, on the lawn and in the woods, I am really liking the R4. If I had a more fragile lawn, I'd want turfs.

 

[Slimson]

I would go with a rear landscape rake.
I've had one since last fall and have found it not only useful for cleaning up tree debris- it can move dirt and gravel. A lot more fogiving for a beginner like me in maintaining a gravel drive.
Sounds like you won't be doing major dirt moving, so the finesse a landscape rake allows might be just the thing.

 

[jenkinsph]

Noodle,
I think you have too small of a tractor in mind for the property you need to maintain. According to your profile 21-50 acres, that is alot to expect a 1023 to handle. You aren't going to like this but I suggest you get a mower for the lawn and a larger tractor for other tasks. I have an x749 which is very similar to the 1023 in abilities and would not expect it to take on that amount of acreage.

 

[Martian]

I'd agree with Steve. I didn't realize you had so much property before. You would be better off getting a used machine for the same amount if you haven't already got the 1023e.

 

[jenkinsph]

I'd agree with Steve. I didn't realize you had so much property before. You would be better off getting a used machine for the same amount if you haven't already got the 1023e.

When I started back into this lawn and tractor stuff I bought a riding mower with bagger and a used Deere 820 30hp utility. Added attachments as I could afford them. Later bought a Deere 110tlb, L130 mower, 4520 and last a new x749. Point being it is hard to buy an all in one machine to do everything. It is also hard for most of us to buy it all at one time.

My suggestion is to buy a good lawn tractor based on your lawn needs and them consider what you really need for the other jobs. I worked on my lawn areas with what limited time I had and then ventured further outwards.

 

[Noodlez914]

Well as far as my acreage...
Out of the 36 I have, only about an acre is grass. The rest is woods and trails. You do have me thinking about maybe keeping my riding lawn mower and just finding a work horse tractor maybe with a loader.

 

[tractchores]

Well as far as my acreage...
Out of the 36 I have, only about an acre is grass. The rest is woods and trails. You do have me thinking about maybe keeping my riding lawn mower and just finding a work horse tractor maybe with a loader.

I looked at the JD 1 series and kubota BX when tractor shopping for my 5 wooded acres. I ended up going to a bigger Kubota B series for the clearance for work in the woods. The little ones are nice, but if you have room bigger seems to be better since you get more capacity in about every respect and the cost difference between the two is minimal compared to the overall price. Plus the bigger ones are more flexible when you find new jobs to do (and you will). You can always do a small job with a big tractor, but can't always do a big job with a small one...

 

[Martian]

Well as far as my acreage...
Out of the 36 I have, only about an acre is grass. The rest is woods and trails. You do have me thinking about maybe keeping my riding lawn mower and just finding a work horse tractor maybe with a loader.

That's a good idea in my opinion. You can find a used tractor that is much more capable than the 1 series for about the same $$$. For around $15k there is a lot of really nice used tractors with front end loaders for sale. That much acreage I think it will be you best bet.

Good luck on you search!

 

[s219]

Well as far as my acreage...
Out of the 36 I have, only about an acre is grass. The rest is woods and trails. You do have me thinking about maybe keeping my riding lawn mower and just finding a work horse tractor maybe with a loader.

Ah heck, keep the riding mower and get a little bigger tractor -- that's what I did. My JD LT-150 riding mower does a great job on the grass, and my Kubota B2920 is awesome for moving materials in the FEL, ferrying trailers around, and going in the woods to do tree/firewood work.

 

[Noodlez914]

While were on the subject or riding mowers........ John Deere LX255. Getting a whining (only way I can think to describe it) type noise whenever the tractor faces the littlest resistance or when forward or reverse is pressed to the fullest. Even get it when I'm backing it in the barn and just has to go over a small concrete lip to get in. Transmission oil is full. Belt maybe?

 

[Martian]

While were on the subject or riding mowers........ John Deere LX255. Getting a whining (only way I can think to describe it) type noise whenever the tractor faces the littlest resistance or when forward or reverse is pressed to the fullest. Even get it when I'm backing it in the barn and just has to go over a small concrete lip to get in. Transmission oil is full. Belt maybe?

I've noticed it on my LT160 for the little while I've had it. I think that's just the way it is with the automatics - heck even my eHydro 345 whines when put to the medal at first, but then goes away. I think it just does it, as long as it goes away after the first bit of 'acceleration' (if you can call it that) than it should be fine.