Redneck in training
Elite Member
Temperature will not separate the water and oil. You have to boil (evaporate)water off.
Purging milky oil from system
- Thread starter Labrador Coaster
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pat32rf
Veteran Member
In my younger days I used to get water in the ATF on my 4x4's. A brisk drive down the highway on a hot day always cleared it up.
You won't be able to heat the mix above 212F until the water has boiled off. Ask anyone who has run a still.... 212F should not be hot enough to damage the oil.
You won't be able to heat the mix above 212F until the water has boiled off. Ask anyone who has run a still.... 212F should not be hot enough to damage the oil.
OP
Labrador Coaster
New member
Yeh' perhaps it's better if I use it to light my fire in the shop instead of trying to recycle it.
Unfortunately I am limited in my choices of where to buy things like oil, I live in an isolated region of Canada, it's all by ship or plane.
Last week I ordered a Makita drill combo set from Princess Auto- Newfoundland ( St Johns). The postage with Canada Post was 65.00$ !
I am curious, as we all know oil and water just don't mix, after reading the articles that JJ posted I will monitor to see if it separates ''naturally'' with gravity. I'll see -30's this winter, I would think that water should freeze?
Unfortunately I am limited in my choices of where to buy things like oil, I live in an isolated region of Canada, it's all by ship or plane.
Last week I ordered a Makita drill combo set from Princess Auto- Newfoundland ( St Johns). The postage with Canada Post was 65.00$ !
I am curious, as we all know oil and water just don't mix, after reading the articles that JJ posted I will monitor to see if it separates ''naturally'' with gravity. I'll see -30's this winter, I would think that water should freeze?
You won't see separation, at a temp a little above the water boiling point you will see water vapor rising and fluid should lose the milky look.
I'll take that bet. Ever see a turkey fryer? Doesn't cost that much to get a lot of oil above water's boiling point
+1:thumbsup:
Problem is he'll buy new oil several times to get the moisture out of the system, he already changed it once (4 gallons) without fixing the water issue...
J_J
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You might drain 4 or 5 gal of emulsified fluid, but the new oil will mix with the old 1/2 gal of water saturated fluid still in the cylinders, and lines /hoses, and it will also look milky with in about an hour of changing.
Soundguy
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I'll take that bet. Ever see a turkey fryer? Doesn't cost that much to get a lot of oil above water's boiling point
add in labor and the cost of a good cooking stock pot that can't be used for cooking again.. and refigure.
mind you if he lives in some place that they have to deliver stuff by polar bear, moose or camle, then 'maybee' it's cheaper to dewater the oil than get new.
I guess i'm fortunate to have a store that sells 20-25$ cheap utf oil 15 minutes from my house / 5 m from my work.
soundguy
J_J
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I agree with Soundguy on replacing the fluid thing.
Even if you could boil all the water out, you are still left with the other compounds that hae been generated by the water combining with all the other chemicals in the fluid. How would you even know when all the water is gone. If this principle of cooking the fluid to remove the water was that good, and cheap, I am sure a lot of people would be doing it.
Perhaps someone on TBN will cook up about 4 gal of water saturated fluid that has been in a tractor hyd tank for about 6 mo, and then send it to a hyd testing lab and post the report, I think you will understand not to take the risk of reusing the fluid.
Not only that, a lot of the add in's have been depleted by the chemical action of the water. I am sure someone can remove just about all the water with heat, centrifuge, absorbing, etc, but it is only economical for the large 100+ gal users.
I have a 20 gal hyd tank on my machine, and I would hate to replace all that fluid. So far, the fluid looks like new fluid, and I don't think any PT owners have had trouble with water in the hyd fluid. By the way, we use 10W-40 as the hyd fluid on our Power-Trac's.
Some may say but why use motor oil, and all I can say is that it has proven itself since about early 90.
I know of other large hyd machines that also use motor oil as the hyd fluid. I believe it can take more heat that most standard hyd fluids.
My Case skidsteer uses 10W-40 plus a qt of Case additive, or Hytrans fluid. So apparently someone has found out what works best, and just sticks with that product.
Even if you could boil all the water out, you are still left with the other compounds that hae been generated by the water combining with all the other chemicals in the fluid. How would you even know when all the water is gone. If this principle of cooking the fluid to remove the water was that good, and cheap, I am sure a lot of people would be doing it.
Perhaps someone on TBN will cook up about 4 gal of water saturated fluid that has been in a tractor hyd tank for about 6 mo, and then send it to a hyd testing lab and post the report, I think you will understand not to take the risk of reusing the fluid.
Not only that, a lot of the add in's have been depleted by the chemical action of the water. I am sure someone can remove just about all the water with heat, centrifuge, absorbing, etc, but it is only economical for the large 100+ gal users.
I have a 20 gal hyd tank on my machine, and I would hate to replace all that fluid. So far, the fluid looks like new fluid, and I don't think any PT owners have had trouble with water in the hyd fluid. By the way, we use 10W-40 as the hyd fluid on our Power-Trac's.
Some may say but why use motor oil, and all I can say is that it has proven itself since about early 90.
I know of other large hyd machines that also use motor oil as the hyd fluid. I believe it can take more heat that most standard hyd fluids.
My Case skidsteer uses 10W-40 plus a qt of Case additive, or Hytrans fluid. So apparently someone has found out what works best, and just sticks with that product.