Pushing back the woods

rwarner · Apr 5, 2001

So here's what I want........about 1/2 of our 11 acres is in woods. We have a fairly large area cleared around the house, but I want to remove some of the brush/saplings along that border so that the yard "blends" into the woods. I'm having trouble deciding the best (and least expensive) tool for the job. I have a JD 4300 w/FEL & 60" MMM. Would a 3 pt bush hog type mower "backed" into the edge of the woods along the perimeter be the right tool? Or should I rent something like a DR brush mower for this job? I could probably justify the cost of the bush hog with the CFO of our household, but not the cost of a self-propelled brush mower.

cowboydoc · Apr 5, 2001

If I was doing it I would just buy a heavy duty bush hog. Alot less strain than the trimmer and definitely you could do alot more alot faster.

rekees · Apr 5, 2001

>>Would a 3 pt bush hog type mower "backed" into the edge of the woods along the perimeter be the right tool?<<

The owners manual for my 513 JD brushhog says not to back it up into brush. I ignored that warning and now it's bent. They aren't very strong and mine was bent just back into a heavy thorn patch. No way it could handle saplings going backward.

Chuck in IN

Knight9 · Apr 5, 2001

I would think the bush hog would be a much more practical tool, especially since you would have it long term for maintenance. I'm banking on that actually, as I intend to buy one to do basically what you are doing! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

The whole issue of "clearing brush/sapling" has raised a question for me though. How does one ensure that nothing of substantial density and mass (read 'big rock') ends up under the rotary cutter if the deck is set to say 6" cutting height? I have a lot of fairly tall grass with rose bushes etc but I'm concerned that if I use one of these I might catch something hidden in the grass. Any thoughts from those that have used these items? Is the "stump jumper" enough to protect it along with shear pin or slip clutch?? I was thinking about hanging something off the FEL and dragging it up front, or even using the FEL bucket in float. Course either way you end up bending over all the grass you are hoping to cut /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Kevin

gerard · Apr 5, 2001

I wouldn't try the float option, the bucket will tend to catch and "ride Up". I cut a whole field of 3ft tall weeds/bushes and small trees and didn't know what was there. First time cut I just kept the cutter as high as it would go and kept the front bucket just above the ground but not in float. I figured if there were any large obstructions the bucket would hit first and if they were small enough to go under the bucket then the sutters would pass over them. After the first cust you can see a lot better and lower things the next time you cut. Even then it's still a little bit of a c**shoot but thats what they make shear bolts for. (I must have done ok 'cuase I haven't lost a bolt on the cutter yet. More than I can say for the post hole digger!!!!!)

scotd1 · Apr 5, 2001

gerard has the right idea. In your original post you don't mention what size saplings you have. I have done a lot of clearing by backing into brush/saplings and you want to go in with the cutter as high as reasonable (most of the time 12-18 inches works OK). Then, when you have the tops cut off, lower the deck on the stalk/stump. I would think you could get away with cutting down saplings up to 1.5 inches like this (I've done most of mine using a 609 and it's tough).
You don't want to go banging into trees with a 513 as you'll tear up the rear of the deck and possibly the 3 pth braces.

Bird · Apr 5, 2001

Brush hogs come in light, medium, and heavy duty models and are priced accordingly. I was a little surprised to read Chuck's message that the JD513 manual says not to back it into brush. I've backed mine into stuff that was too tall, thick, etc. to drive through forward. Of course, if I don't know and can't see what's in there, I try to go slow. Depending on how tough the stuff is, I may simply back into it with the mower lowered, or I may raise the mower, back over the brush and slowly lower the mower onto it. And yes, I've mowed into a pile of old lumber at least once, hit a big concrete block once, and found a log or two, but so far have not even sheared a shear pin. Of course, I have worn out and replaced a set of blades once./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird

cowboydoc · Apr 5, 2001

Same here Bird. I back mine up all the time into brush and such. It hasn't bent it yet. I have hit stuff as well and bent and replaced blades, pins, bolts, etc. but not the actual mower.

Keoke · Apr 5, 2001

Gerard's got the right idea about holding the bucket low and the bush hog high on the first pass through high brush.
Holding the bucket low works even better if you have a bucket tooth bar set at a slight downward angle. Works some what like a comb. Don't forget to go SLOW!!!

george

Joeinindy · Apr 6, 2001

I have a woods 6' med duty cutter and used it for the first time last week clearing the front field of saplings and such. Maybe I shouldn't have but I backed in most of the time and had no problems. I raised the cutter to it's highest position then lowered it after the first cutting. I just felt that all that brush and limbs were better under the cutter than hanging up under the tractor. I chopped up quite a lot of stuff in the 2" size and it ate them up with ease. I figure a shear bolt or new blades is a alot cheaper than tearing loose a hydro line or cable under the L3410. Never have been around a DR but I can't imagine it could do the job the cutter does, and I'm sure it would be tougher to use, not to metion the poison ivy.

lloydp · Apr 6, 2001

I have a DR brush mower,,,go with the brush hog. Dr works fine but only has a 26" blade, so takes lots of time and Blackberry bushes like to grab your arms and face if you aren't careful.

The only reason I use it is I don't have a tractor yet. I think you can buy one heck of a brush hog for $2,000, which is what the 10.5 DR costs.

TraderMark · Apr 8, 2001

rwarner

This is the BEST thing I have found for removing saplings up to about 4 inches. It gets the tree, root and all and there's less ground disturbance then pushing the trees over and "flipping" them out of the hole with the FEL.

I built this one myself to mount on the 3pt (added the rest of the "fingers" just this week) but it's based on the Brush Brute. I think the Brush Brute mounts on the FEL but you have to remove the bucket to mount it.

scruffy · Apr 9, 2001

Now I wonder how hard it would be to adapt that for pulling T-Posts? Or do you think it would 'grab' a t-post as is, and pull it w/o bending it? Maybe adding a flip across bar to lock onto the nubs of the t-post?

Edited by scruffy on 04/09/01 00:10 AM (server time).

TraderMark · Apr 9, 2001

scruffy

I hadn't thought about the Tposts, but I have some that have to go and I'll try pulling them with this rig and let you know how it works.

skent · Apr 9, 2001

FANTASTIC!! Looks GREAT! I'm gunna fire up the welder this weekend!

Thanks for the idea!

Steve

gordon · Apr 9, 2001

Ditto that!!! How long did you make the teeth and what are the gaps at the open ends???

Thanks in advance
Gordon

Jag · Apr 9, 2001

TraderMark, how long are the fingers, spacing, and how are they made... Thanks, I will have a local shop get started this week...

TraderMark · Apr 9, 2001

I'll do my best to give all the specs on the first try, but if I don't.... just holler !! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

The crossbar and the upright for the top link are made from 2X3X1/2 wall tubing.

The fingers are 15 inches total length (that leaves 12 inches protruding from the crossbar) and are made of 1/2X3 flatbar.
I left 1/2 inch in the center of each finger and tapered them back 11 inches. Each finger has a piece of 3/8X2 flatbar welded edge ways and welded to the crossbar to prevent the fingers from bending.

dieselpwr · Apr 9, 2001

This might be a really dumb question but... have any of you guys that cut these 1-3" dia. saplings ever punctured or cut a tire by driving over the stems in future passes or while mowing a month or three later? I would think they would be pretty rigid already when they are that big... or doesn't it leave the stems very sharp when they are cut off? Those tires are expensive! /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif I may be faced with this situation in the future & would hate to be faced with big tire repair bills.

Troy

Bird · Apr 9, 2001

have any of you guys that cut these 1-3" dia. saplings ever punctured or cut a tire by driving over the stems in future passes or while mowing a month or three later?

No, I haven't, but my neighbor sure did; on a tractor with 38" wheels and I helped him fix the flat; not a lot of fun, especially since he didn't know until he did it that his tires were filled with calcium.

Bird