Pushing in New Roads and Trails

[3RRL]

Anyway, I decided to take the bent drag links home for the repairs. I had to straightened them out first. I had a spare so I used it to compare what the should look like. Here is a "before photo" showing the bent ones and the spare.




Then I straightened them out on my Harbor Freight 12 ton press.

 

[3RRL]

You may have noticed some "experienced" scarifier shanks lying around the work bench? They are pretty tough and hard, being almost 3/4" thick and 2-½" x 16". I knocked off the teeth and then cut off the sharp point. Then I placed them under the drag links clamping them down. Then put several huge beads of weld on them using my old 220amp Forney buzz box with max amperage and 5/32" 6011 rod to get maximum penetration. I welded the crap out of them. Now they are very sturdy and heavier than before.

I also replaced a "U" bolt that snapped off Pat's system and four 3/8"-16 hardened set screws that broke off. I'll paint them later before putting them back on the tractor. I still need to finish the rest of the trails.

 

[Highbeam]

I don't know Rob, the very fact that those lower links bent is indication that they are the weak link. If you make them super-macho-manly-strong do you suppose that the weak link will become the cast ears on the rear end of the tractor where those links mount? It looked pretty easy to fix those links compared to a new rear end.

I notice that the dust is down so you must be getting some rain. We also are now dust free with all the burn bans lifted.

I'll have to look for the tie rod thread. That sounded fun.

 

[3RRL]

I don't know Rob, the very fact that those lower links bent is indication that they are the weak link. If you make them super-macho-manly-strong do you suppose that the weak link will become the cast ears on the rear end of the tractor where those links mount? It looked pretty easy to fix those links compared to a new rear end.

I notice that the dust is down so you must be getting some rain. We also are now dust free with all the burn bans lifted.

I'll have to look for the tie rod thread. That sounded fun.

As usual, you brought a good point Highbeam,
They were (maybe still are) the weak link. My attachment to the tractor housing is via 2 huge Ø1-½" pins that go through the bottom of the very thick tractor housing. I'm not sure, but it could be one length going completely through? I think those pins and the housing there are plenty strong to stop the tractor dead in its tracks even with significant impact shock. But I'll find out, I'm sure.
Another thing is my sway links are solid and not chains. Their attachment is via a welded bracket to the rear axle housing then pinned to the drag links. They will also absorb and assist in providing additional resistance. At this point, I'm pretty confidant that the tractor housing won't break. Perhaps the lower arms might still bend in an area I did not re-inforce?
That other thread is HERE We did get a little rain, but not as much as I'd like. Maybe only a ½" or so? I don't know if that will be enough to set off the food plot or not. Looking at the weather report, no rain has been in the predictions.
Thanks for looking.

 

[Farwell]

Rob,
This is off the subject: Did you see the ABC's World News story about the guy that has a solar panel set up for his power needs and uses the electricity generated to make hydrogen? He stores the hydrogen for use when the panels are not generating. He said his set up cost was around $110,000. Didn't count the hydrogen storage tanks but he had quite a few. He is totally off of the grid.
If you are interested in the story you may find it on ABc's INTERNET site.
Farwell

 

[3RRL]

Farwell,
Thanks for the tip. I went to the news article and read about it. It does sound interesting but at this time is over my head. I don't know enough about it yet so I will have study up on it. I think I will have to buy a few systems to get the hydrogen out via electrolysis and then make conversions to use it (like in my cars) and also to reconvert it back to electricity? It may be more than I want to get in to? LOL ... I wish I was smarter....heck, I have problems trying to push in a lousy dirt road!

I also read about the Hopewell Project:
"The Hopewell Project is making energy history with a solar-powered residence that generates hydrogen for subsequent reconversion into electricity, meeting all of its power needs, including heating and cooling, through renewable, clean energy."

 

[3RRL]

I finished painting the drag links and they are fully repaired. The "T" on the bottom should give a lot of extra resistance to bending them now. I thought about adding another support too, but have decided against it for the time being. My idea was to use the sway stabilizer mount which is welded to the rear axle on my tractor. I was going to add an adjustable stabilizer bar that goes from there over to the box blade. I thought about using the old turnbuckle sidelinks which have Ø1-1/8" threads.

It would require welding another bracket and another set of lift pins to the box blade and of course, another connection to make when I hook it up. The sway stabilizers I have are solid with pins for adjusting and help support the drag links when pushing in reverse. I thought the extra rigidity with another set going right to the box blade would help for this project. I've decided to wait because I'm not sure if the attachments would still give me the same flexibility in tilting sideways or not....and I may not need it after all? We'll see.

I need to touch them up a little, but here they are fully repaired. I like Brad's idea of the lynch pins that lock themselves on allot. Buy Special Order - Pto 3/8 Inch Locking Pin P7941U by Special Speeco Products & Save at DoItYourself.com That is a good idea and makes adjusting the sway supports much easier. Right now I have these retainer pins instead of the cotter pins. They are an improvement, but not as handy as the ones Brad got.

 

[Timber]

Now Rob have you looked into the Dozer blade for the front of your Tractor. It does require removing the fell but it is the right tool for the job. Just a thought

 

[3RRL]

Hi Charlie,
Yes, I did look into it. Even thought about a "mid-mount" blade. There is an "Experienced" tractor parts place nearby that has all kinds of heavy equipment and parts lying around. Problem is, most of the blades he had I couldn't pick up with my fel!! I am going to keep looking into that though. Maybe make a 6 way from an old blade and cut it way down? In the mean time, I'll keep trying with my "poor man's" backwards dozer blade.

When I go to push in my pond, it is obvious I will be renting a bulldozer. In the pond I will be stuck dealing with whatever pops up. Making these trails I have some leeway in the direction I choose, trying to avoid big ones when I can. I don't want to kill my tractor prematurely....I know it is not a dozer.

Thank you for the suggestion. I appreciate your ideas and input.

 

[3RRL]

I finished repairing the tractor from the damage to the lower drag links when we got to camp last weekend. I ran into a couple of problems but got started with the rest of the trails. I started down the trail to the West side clearing along and came up to the fence line.



Along the way I ran into more rocks and had to move them. When dragging the boxblade, I would constantly pop up small boulders like these.