Put in a new Battery, got nothin' - I am not dumb, but maybe I'm not bright?

[anomad]

A few years ago helping a friend we had a spark and battery exploded. It was unbelievably violent and both instantly deaf and sprayed with sulfuric acid. We ran to a nearby water hydrant, used baking soda and deaf for a long time.
Luckily acid didn't spray our faces. We found battery case probably 100ft from truck.

When I was in high school and working in the maintenance shop one day the tractor wouldn't start. I wheeled out the charger, like always, and we left to the cafeteria for lunch. After lunch we came back and my boss said, where is the battery? Why is everything wet? We found fragments of the battery all over the shop. Glad none of us were in there when she blew. No one used PPE back then unless arc welding.

 

[SPYDERLK]

When I was in high school and working in the maintenance shop one day the tractor wouldn't start. I wheeled out the charger, like always, and we left to the cafeteria for lunch. After lunch we came back and my boss said, where is the battery? Why is everything wet? We found fragments of the battery all over the shop. Glad none of us were in there when she blew. No one used PPE back then unless arc welding.

There is another possibility to explore. In my life I have had 2 new batteries that measured correct V with no load, but collapsed to virtually Zero with only a small load. Im talking about maybe a Watt or two -- fractional amp load.

I took them back of course.[[[ The only thing I can think of is there was a cracked internal buss conductor and acid sufficed to bridge the crack sufficient for a few milliamps - plenty for a voltmeter. If this condition exists it will behoove us to find the characteristic early and stop. I can imagine tiny sparks happening in a Hydrogen - Oxygen environ. (EEK) ]]]

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'm often puzzled at my own store of useless information.

Ya know? ... The free storage makes it a huge bargain when you find pieces fitting into lifes jigsaw puzzle. ...

 

[Timmy1957]

A neighbor called me about same thing. He had a newer John Deere. He had voltage going into a fuse block but not coming out. No fuses blown in the fuse block. Removed the fuse block and hidden behind it was a blown 250amp fuse. Replaced it and problem solved. Used a $10 test light to find the problem

 

[sixdogs]

Does anyone else think this thread could be morphing into the new Stuck Drain Plug or Pallets in Field Thread? That's a good thing...

 

[Racer4]

Someone should make a sticky with the specific steps to take if a machine won’t turn over. Might save some people a lot of money. I notice lots of threads on this topic, mostly posted by people who have already fired the parts cannon at their machine with no results.

 

[4570Man]

Someone should make a sticky with the specific steps to take if a machine won’t turn over. Might save some people a lot of money. I notice lots of threads on this topic, mostly posted by people who have already fired the parts cannon at their machine with no results.

Literally every single time test the battery with a volt meter and test the battery again with a volt meter while the tractor attempts to start. It should be noted to make sure the tractor is in neutral before you stand in front of it and attempt to start it. That should be the first step in any trouble shooting before any parts are bought. Assuming the battery passes that test repeat the same process except measure the voltage from the starter terminal. Probably 80 percent of no start issues are a result of failure to maintain above 12v at the starter while it’s attempting to start. The result you get from doing those 2 test should dictate the rest of the troubleshooting.

 

[dodge man]

I’d like to see a picture of the big fuse he pulled and replaced, just my curiosity.

One thing we need to understand is all of us have a different levels of skill when it comes to fixing things. What might be obvious to some of us might not be to others. Not to insult the OP be he obviously had less skills then some of us. He came here for help and got it but there were a couple of comments about him not coming back with results. My understanding was the tractor was maybe some place remote.

 

[nknelsen]

you have HST and a clutch?

Yes. The kioti CX2510 has a clutch that disables the drive train. My old CS2410 had no clutch. This tractor has a clutch where the brake was on the CS (left side) and a brake on the right, beside the hst pedals.

On the CX you also need to depress the clutch to engage either front or back pto and I didn't need to do that on the CS, on the CS, I just moved a large lever on the right side.

Im not a tractor expert but I think one of them is a live pto or something like that and the other one isn't.

Not sure but always interested in learning more.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Literally every single time test the battery with a volt meter and test the battery again with a volt meter while the tractor attempts to start. It should be noted to make sure the tractor is in neutral before you stand in front of it and attempt to start it. That should be the first step in any trouble shooting before any parts are bought. Assuming the battery passes that test repeat the same process except measure the voltage from the starter terminal. Probably 80 percent of no start issues are a result of failure to maintain above 12v at the starter while it’s attempting to start. The result you get from doing those 2 test should dictate the rest of the troubleshooting.

Setting your voltmeter up to apply a ~ 1A load would go far. Put a 10 Ohm 10W resistor across a double banana plug and apply it at the V meter input. Most all voltmeter leads should carry an amp quite harmlessly.