Put in a new Battery, got nothin' - I am not dumb, but maybe I'm not bright?

[GS650GL]

you have HST and a clutch?

Weird, but some Kioti models with HST but no electric pto switch, have a clutch pedal to manually disengage the pto clutch.

 

[TMGT]

you have HST and a clutch?

Ive had 3 HST tractors with clutches, all Kubota.

Sent from my SM-S921U using TractorByNet mobile app

 

[Mtsoxfan]

you have HST and a clutch?

My NH did, clutch was for PTO

 

[SPYDERLK]

My NH did, clutch was for PTO

But disengaged motive as well... right??

 

[Mtsoxfan]

But disengaged motive as well... right??

Assuming you meant motor, and yes, I would need to push in clutch to start easier in cold weather.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Assuming you meant motor, and yes, I would need to push in clutch to start easier in cold weather.

Yes. I meant motive force, from whatever inherent source, to move the tractor. In this case probably an engine.

 

[D&D]

Weird, but some Kioti models with HST but no electric pto switch, have a clutch pedal to manually disengage the pto clutch.

Ah, thanks

 

[Mtsoxfan]

Yes. I meant motive force, from whatever inherent source, to move the tractor. In this case probably an engine.

LOL... while I know lots of stuff, almost Cliff Claven like, I wasn't familiar with that term.
My wife is puzzled at times with my knowledge of seemingly useless information.

 

[SPYDERLK]

LOL... while I know lots of stuff, almost Cliff Claven like, I wasn't familiar with that term.
My wife is puzzled at times with my knowledge of seemingly useless information.

I still use E as in the original OHMs Law; I=E/R. When I was a kid looking at my dads Physics book I asked him about it. He said it was voltage : the ElectroMotive Force. Iv always thought it a "neat" term.

 

[lilranch2001]

Maybe he's moved on to a stuck drain plug or pallets in fields.

I always enjoy a good resurgence of the pallet in the fields thread

 

[FreddyFlynn]

I have a feeling he is one of those one hit wonders that come in make a post and then you never see or hear from him again.

No, its one of those guys who works his ass off

 

[FreddyFlynn]

Sorry everyone, I had a hella week of work. Put it in frame for you, tariff changes affect the company I work for and between China, the US, and Canada, its been a year in 7 days.
Here is the update:
I got a hold of the tractor repair guy, they said they could not come out to the house but they knew a guy named Dan. Dan however was not there and to send pictures. I sent pictures and they said oh it sounds like the main fuse is blown, check that. I said you should know that I do not know where it is, but I think it is this inline plug capsule, but it doesn't look like any fuse I have ever seen and it truthfully, I do not know what in the heck it is, but it does look like it would hold a fuse. They said yeah, thats it, open it up and send a picture. I did, they haven't gotten back to me. So Saturday is my attack the problem day, more to come!

 

[FreddyFlynn]

1) You have a tractor that everything works. Starting, running, gauges, lights, everything.
2) One day it cranks over very slowly...then click, click, click.
3) You remove battery, install a new one
4) The tractor is dead...100% dead

Ask anyone with an I.Q. greater than a turnip what's wrong.
I mean no disrespect to anyone.
Putting the old battery back in will take you to step 2).
Yes all sorts of things, corrosion, bad connection, etc. can mimic a bad battery, but putting the old battery back at least take you to step 2). Otherwise something wrong with step 3).

As a member of the turnip brain appreciation society, we have altered the local chapter of hell's cauliflowers and they will be bringing the beets. Sound approach, but you were missing some data. Putting old battery back in -not possible - battery was already brought in. DO I wish now i HADNT done that, yes, however if ifs and butts were candy and nuts we would all have a better day. Or diabetes. No corrosion. Not a bad connection. If I can post a video on here when I am trying stuff tomorrow I will.

 

[FreddyFlynn]

Wonder what happened to ole FF

Ye Ole FF stick F'd with a batteryless blue bear - work happened, but tomorrow is back under the hood!

 

[4570Man]

1) You have a tractor that everything works. Starting, running, gauges, lights, everything.
2) One day it cranks over very slowly...then click, click, click.
3) You remove battery, install a new one
4) The tractor is dead...100% dead

Ask anyone with an I.Q. greater than a turnip what's wrong.
I mean no disrespect to anyone.
Putting the old battery back in will take you to step 2).
Yes all sorts of things, corrosion, bad connection, etc. can mimic a bad battery, but putting the old battery back at least take you to step 2). Otherwise something wrong with step 3).

Your theory has several flaws. Most people don’t change a battery for fun. There was an underlying reason. In this case it was slow starting and not completely dead.
I doubt the op has the original battery. Most people turn them in to avoid the core deposit.
The battery cables could have been on their way out and given up the ghost when they were wiggled. I honestly doubt this is the case. Probably 3 amps would light the dash lights. The cable would have to be pretty much entirely broken to not do that. The new battery could be bad. I doubt it considering the static voltage was good. There’s the main fuse theory. I’ve personally had this happen and my money goes on this being the issue. While the other ideas could go from slow starting to zero activity in one day it’s not as probable as a fuse.

 

[FreddyFlynn]

Your theory has several flaws. Most people don’t change a battery for fun. There was an underlying reason. In this case it was slow starting and not completely dead.
I doubt the op has the original battery. Most people turn them in to avoid the core deposit.
The battery cables could have been on their way out and given up the ghost when they were wiggled. I honestly doubt this is the case. Probably 3 amps would light the dash lights. The cable would have to be pretty much entirely broken to not do that. The new battery could be bad. I doubt it considering the static voltage was good. There’s the main fuse theory. I’ve personally had this happen and my money goes on this being the issue. While the other ideas could go from slow starting to zero activity in one day it’s not as probable as a fuse.

Tomorrow the fun begins again, more to come

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Your theory has several flaws. Most people don’t change a battery for fun. There was an underlying reason. In this case it was slow starting and not completely dead.
I doubt the op has the original battery. Most people turn them in to avoid the core deposit.
The battery cables could have been on their way out and given up the ghost when they were wiggled. I honestly doubt this is the case. Probably 3 amps would light the dash lights. The cable would have to be pretty much entirely broken to not do that. The new battery could be bad. I doubt it considering the static voltage was good. There’s the main fuse theory. I’ve personally had this happen and my money goes on this being the issue. While the other ideas could go from slow starting to zero activity in one day it’s not as probable as a fuse.

After 43 years of troubleshooting electronic problems, certainly I may not have a clue what I'm talking about.
What I said was 100% accurate. Ironically, I don't have electrical problems with any of our car collection, truck, tractors, equipment, etc.
(I wonder why?)
If my help & reasoning is wrong simply disregard it. I buy batteries returning the core next day...otherwise I would simply remove a known good battery from one of our cars and try it.
There's never been a tractor, car, truck that had slow cranking then a blown fuse simply by installing a new battery unless it was done improperly...fuses just don't open for no reason.
Carry on & good luck. I'll stop trying to assist with electrical problems.

 

[CH4Ohio]

No, its one of those guys who works his ass off

That main fuse probably looks something like this. You can use your new multi-meter to test it. Testing for ohms or resistance -- if it has a setting for continuity that looks like ->+))))) you can touch your leads together and should hear a tone. That indicates a complete circuit -- there is "continuity" from one termal to the other. Remove the fuse and check across the two terminals -- if there is a tone, it's good. If not, it's blown and you've found the problem.

 

[Carl_NH]

Yes some look like that, but other times they virtually hide a round fuse in shrink tube or electrical tape the wire harness on purpose!

Had a Toro generator bad battery replaced the battery, still no start, so look at the wiring diagram theres a fuse somewhere before the starter. Well, after taking the front cover off, not there, then trace the wire harness - lo and behold a little 1/2" long glass tube fuse was tucked in a connector and wrapped with tape as part of the wiring harness.

Very hard to find these little buggers, but once replaced the battery worked fine.

 

[Erbid]

Good luck this weekend Freddy. Sounds like you have found the fuse holder. Hope that checking/replacing/reseating the fuse fixes things!