Put in a new Battery, got nothin' - I am not dumb, but maybe I'm not bright?

   / Put in a new Battery, got nothin' - I am not dumb, but maybe I'm not bright? #41  
If the ground wire is really just grounded to the battery tray try somewhere else. That’s a terrible place to ground to. Did you pull fuses and check them?
 
   / Put in a new Battery, got nothin' - I am not dumb, but maybe I'm not bright?
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Just got back in here is an update:
Pulled every fuse, all looked find, still intact.
Checked for the plastic around the plugs, none found, posts are clean.
Got a Multimeter from AutoZone, set it to DC, pulled in a 12.63 which is a good result.
I wiggled, tightened, and loosened every connection, then tightened them again.
Everything I inspected checks out.
I still have zero dashboard activity. This is the weirdest thing I have had to deal with in awhile. And I own a jeep prone to death wobble. All of the ideas you all have had are great. The only thing I havent done yet is jump it, and the reason is because if I am getting charge on the test, I should at least get some light to turn on somewhere.
 
   / Put in a new Battery, got nothin' - I am not dumb, but maybe I'm not bright? #44  
Just got back in here is an update:
Pulled every fuse, all looked find, still intact.
Checked for the plastic around the plugs, none found, posts are clean.
Got a Multimeter from AutoZone, set it to DC, pulled in a 12.63 which is a good result.
I wiggled, tightened, and loosened every connection, then tightened them again.
Everything I inspected checks out.
I still have zero dashboard activity. This is the weirdest thing I have had to deal with in awhile. And I own a jeep prone to death wobble. All of the ideas you all have had are great. The only thing I havent done yet is jump it, and the reason is because if I am getting charge on the test, I should at least get some light to turn on somewhere.
Not sure about your tractor but my New Holland has a main 40 amp fuse by starter plus fuses in fuse block. If 40 amp blows entire tractor is dead. Maybe check manual to see if a main fuse in another location
 
   / Put in a new Battery, got nothin' - I am not dumb, but maybe I'm not bright? #46  
So check continuity from the negative post of the battery to the point where the negative cable is connected to the battery tray. If good, check from the negative post to a bolt or bare metal bracket on the engine. Both should be good.

or, you can check for voltage from the positive post to the ground points. Either way, you're just working your way down the circuit and checking that wires of ok.

Check for voltage from the negative post on the battery to the other end of the positive battery cable. If you still have 12+ volts you know that cable is good.

If those basic tests indicate cables are ok, and nothing happens when you turn the key, I'd start looking at the key switch.

Wasn't everything working ok before you changed the battery?
 
   / Put in a new Battery, got nothin' - I am not dumb, but maybe I'm not bright?
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Not sure about your tractor but my New Holland has a main 40 amp fuse by starter plus fuses in fuse block. If 40 amp blows entire tractor is dead. Maybe check manual to see if a main fuse in another location
Ok so I read about that here (attached) but maybe it was snowing too hard or whatever but I couldnt find it - I was 100% traveling down this path of thought
1762729121254.png
 
   / Put in a new Battery, got nothin' - I am not dumb, but maybe I'm not bright?
  • Thread Starter
#48  
So check continuity from the negative post of the battery to the point where the negative cable is connected to the battery tray. If good, check from the negative post to a bolt or bare metal bracket on the engine. Both should be good.

Check for voltage from the negative post on the battery to the other end of the positive battery cable. If you still have 12+ volts you know that cable is good.

If those basic tests indicate cables are ok, and nothing happens when you turn the key, I'd start looking at the key switch.

Wasn't everything working ok before you changed the battery?
It was starting slowly which is why I changed it out - so ok is a good word but I could tell the battery/charge/power was waning.
 
   / Put in a new Battery, got nothin' - I am not dumb, but maybe I'm not bright? #49  
Just got back in here is an update:
Pulled every fuse, all looked find, still intact.
Checked for the plastic around the plugs, none found, posts are clean.
Got a Multimeter from AutoZone, set it to DC, pulled in a 12.63 which is a good result.
I wiggled, tightened, and loosened every connection, then tightened them again.
Everything I inspected checks out.
I still have zero dashboard activity. This is the weirdest thing I have had to deal with in awhile. And I own a jeep prone to death wobble. All of the ideas you all have had are great. The only thing I havent done yet is jump it, and the reason is because if I am getting charge on the test, I should at least get some light to turn on somewhere.
Test from +Batt clamp to tractor chassis Neg. Ignition ON and OFF. Same 12.6 result for each?
 
   / Put in a new Battery, got nothin' - I am not dumb, but maybe I'm not bright? #50  
A helper would be good. Fill in the blank: (first one is filled out).
1) meter across battery ____12.63V___V
2) meter across battery cranking______V
3) " " " headlights on _______V
4) meter black neg lead grounded to engine or frame, red pos lead battery ground _________V
5) same as above but cranking or lights on______V
6) step 4&5 above should be 0v or close. If not, you have a bad ground. If it's zero, voltage at other end pos. battery cable (starter), there to ground _________V.
7) meter still at starter, try cranking or lights ___________V.
8) last step is main power lead there to fuse block.
 

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