QA FEL Snowblower
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skyhook
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2013
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- Location
- Canada Ontario
- Tractor
- 1996 Kubota L4200 GSTC,(sold) 1994 JCB 210S 4x4x4
Oh, I forgot it was originally a 3 point blower, 
leonz
Super Member
The Hanson engine driven snow caster was a chain driven unit.
The problem is torque and the lack of it as the impeller did not have
adequate torque to overcome the heavy load on the impeller as the
open cross auger force fed the snow to the center and the speed of
the truck affected its efficiency.
The only way to overcome this is to install a fly wheel to increase
the available torque to the impeller.
Using the old engine driven three point hitch MOTT flail mowers in the example
they had a 4 cylinder Wisconsin engine for power and they never lacked for power
or torque.
If you used a Wisconsin engine there would be no problem as the engine has enough
torque to use a chain drive system. A belt drive will slip and continue to slip due to heat
and melt water from the snow being cast away.
The manual throttle setting would allow you to use a radar speed gun or hand held tachometer
gauge to find the original 540 drive shaft speed to deliver the proper RPM to create the torque
needed for the work.
The impeller is doing most all the work and the open cross auger is simply loafing along.
If a closed auger was used with narrow flighting 2 inch height with 4 inch spacing with a
15 degree slope it would require even less energy to operate and be a very efficient
single or two stage stage snow caster and the snow would be cast over a much
longer distance as the snow is being fed into the impeller at a much lower rate
preventing flooding/clogging.
The problem is torque and the lack of it as the impeller did not have
adequate torque to overcome the heavy load on the impeller as the
open cross auger force fed the snow to the center and the speed of
the truck affected its efficiency.
The only way to overcome this is to install a fly wheel to increase
the available torque to the impeller.
Using the old engine driven three point hitch MOTT flail mowers in the example
they had a 4 cylinder Wisconsin engine for power and they never lacked for power
or torque.
If you used a Wisconsin engine there would be no problem as the engine has enough
torque to use a chain drive system. A belt drive will slip and continue to slip due to heat
and melt water from the snow being cast away.
The manual throttle setting would allow you to use a radar speed gun or hand held tachometer
gauge to find the original 540 drive shaft speed to deliver the proper RPM to create the torque
needed for the work.
The impeller is doing most all the work and the open cross auger is simply loafing along.
If a closed auger was used with narrow flighting 2 inch height with 4 inch spacing with a
15 degree slope it would require even less energy to operate and be a very efficient
single or two stage stage snow caster and the snow would be cast over a much
longer distance as the snow is being fed into the impeller at a much lower rate
preventing flooding/clogging.
Last edited:
I'm a little confused on your post - I'm not sure if you're trying to make suggestions on how to improve it or simply saying it won't work?
I've used this engine and blower setup last year and it cleared a record snowfall in the UP of MI. The problem was it wasn't "geared" correctly. I could only run about 1/2 throttle on the engine. The engine to blower was entirely belt driven will very long ~48" belts. It was hard to keep enough tension on them to keep them from slipping. It worked, just not as well as I would like it to.
This "redesign" seems to work much better, the first test run I made with the blower worked fairly well - the engine didn't bog down and I didn't observe any belt slipping as the engine was running close to full throttle so I had adequate power. We'll see if getting the final drive up to 540 rpm resolves my issue.
I thought about going entirely chain driven, however, the belts have a safety factor.
I'm working on a cover to protect the belts / engine from blowing snow, which would make the belts slip.
My setup also has a manual throttle so I can set the correct speed. I'm "geared" too low right now, full throttle only turns the blower at ~500rpm. I used an electronic tach. gauge to get the RPM.
An interesting side note, this graph from briggs shows that last year I was probably only getting around 18hp, less with power transfer loss.
View attachment briggs dyno graph.pdf
I've used this engine and blower setup last year and it cleared a record snowfall in the UP of MI. The problem was it wasn't "geared" correctly. I could only run about 1/2 throttle on the engine. The engine to blower was entirely belt driven will very long ~48" belts. It was hard to keep enough tension on them to keep them from slipping. It worked, just not as well as I would like it to.
This "redesign" seems to work much better, the first test run I made with the blower worked fairly well - the engine didn't bog down and I didn't observe any belt slipping as the engine was running close to full throttle so I had adequate power. We'll see if getting the final drive up to 540 rpm resolves my issue.
I thought about going entirely chain driven, however, the belts have a safety factor.
I'm working on a cover to protect the belts / engine from blowing snow, which would make the belts slip.
My setup also has a manual throttle so I can set the correct speed. I'm "geared" too low right now, full throttle only turns the blower at ~500rpm. I used an electronic tach. gauge to get the RPM.
An interesting side note, this graph from briggs shows that last year I was probably only getting around 18hp, less with power transfer loss.
View attachment briggs dyno graph.pdf
leonz
Super Member
I mentioned the 4 cylinder wisconsins as they are a go to source for both power and torque
If you used a Hilliard slip clutch with a double roller chain drive housing
(used for go carts as standard equipment)
to power the gearbox shaft which rotates the impeller you would solve all your
problems.
have you checked the space between the impeller paddles and the housing??? that is a major issue
and you may need one of "Clarence's Iimpeller Kits to make it work better.
If you used a Hilliard slip clutch with a double roller chain drive housing
(used for go carts as standard equipment)
to power the gearbox shaft which rotates the impeller you would solve all your
problems.
have you checked the space between the impeller paddles and the housing??? that is a major issue
and you may need one of "Clarence's Iimpeller Kits to make it work better.
Thanks, if the Briggs can't do the job I'll keep an eye out for one of the wisconsins.
Do you have a link to a Hilliard slip clutch? I used surplus center to order my pulleys / sprockets. It was easy to filter on bore size, tooth count, etc. The slip clutch is a good idea, just need to see one and also have to consider the price.
I haven't measured but I'm working on getting some belting / heavy rubber to bolt onto the paddles.
Do you have a link to a Hilliard slip clutch? I used surplus center to order my pulleys / sprockets. It was easy to filter on bore size, tooth count, etc. The slip clutch is a good idea, just need to see one and also have to consider the price.
I haven't measured but I'm working on getting some belting / heavy rubber to bolt onto the paddles.
leonz
Super Member
Home - Hilliard Corporation
It will be faster for you to buy a "complete" kit from Clarence as it is $33.00 from what i remember
It will be faster for you to buy a "complete" kit from Clarence as it is $33.00 from what i remember
I looked at that Hilliard site, also saw some of their products on surplus center. Didn't see anything with a 1 1/8" bore, 60p double sprocket...
Something like this:
3/4" BORE 40/41 PITCH 10 TOOTH CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH
would work if I could find the right HP rating, pitch and bore size.
It's easy to say XXXX is the best way to go. Finding that exact part is the challenge, then seeing what the cost is, is the second.
I could have just bought a commercial version of what I'm using (which is also belt driven), but they cost around $7000.
3/4" BORE 40/41 PITCH 10 TOOTH CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH
would work if I could find the right HP rating, pitch and bore size.
It's easy to say XXXX is the best way to go. Finding that exact part is the challenge, then seeing what the cost is, is the second.
I could have just bought a commercial version of what I'm using (which is also belt driven), but they cost around $7000.
Everhard
Gold Member
If you stick with the belts how about adding in a tensioner pully? (kinda like on a fan belt setup?) Thanks for all the info. I just picked up a blower, this winter I'll use it on the back but I might try to fab something up for next winter. Please keep us posted with any changes you make!
E.
E.
