Get a pipe cutting edge from Rob Piro at Michigan Iron Equipment (do a search on the forum). It's a iron pip welded to a cutting edge that bolts on to your plow. It will never wear out and will not pick up gravel. 72" is not too big for a bx if you ballast the front and make several swipes. I used a 72inch RB (pushing and pulling) and it works fine in Northwestern CT with 12 inch storms.
Snow Q's on Using the BX for Snow Removal
- Thread starter robertm
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dodge man
Super Star Member
This is where I got my rubber edge. Its pretty thick, should last me a lifetime. Polyurethane Snow Plow Blades and Cutting Edges I ended up getting a rubber edge, not a polyurethane edge.
gotcha
Gold Member
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- Mar 4, 2007
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- (07) B26, (83) B7100D
Even though we had frost and a low temp of 31.8 degrees today, I'm not thinking about snow again until at least August.
I second that one. I have all my snow removal stuff put away after all the maintenance was performed for the next snow season. I run only the bucket and 7' Moose snow plow on the QA plate that I had made up for my forks, trailer moving and the snow plow.
The Gotcha Man
LBrown59
Super Star Member
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- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
*Make that Nov or Dec for here.1*Even though we had frost and a low temp of 31.8 degrees today, I'm not thinking about snow again until at least August.
2*Don't know why people assume snow is all a blade is for
Jeff H
Gold Member
I just bought a new BX25. The majority of the snow removal discussions seem to involve very long driveways, gravel driveways, and deep northern snows.
My driveway is only 50' long but 3 cars wide, it is concrete. We only get 3-4" inches at best lately in NJ it seems.
I would like to get some input from people in a similar situation as mine.
I am thinking at the point to use a rear blade and pull the snow forward. I read enough discussions already about bending the arms by pushing backwards, I don't think I will try that.
I don't want to grind down my FEL on the concrete.
My driveway is only 50' long but 3 cars wide, it is concrete. We only get 3-4" inches at best lately in NJ it seems.
I would like to get some input from people in a similar situation as mine.
I am thinking at the point to use a rear blade and pull the snow forward. I read enough discussions already about bending the arms by pushing backwards, I don't think I will try that.
I don't want to grind down my FEL on the concrete.
I doubt you'd bend the arms unless you are oversized on the blade, or you hit something hard or frozen. For that reason alone, I think I will cut down my RB1572 Land Pride to 60". It weighs a ton already, and is sometimes hard to maneuver. I pushed with the backblade for years without issues. Pulling the rear blade down a driveway of any length over 50' requires a severe angle on the blade to move wet snow away, or you lose traction and the snow builds up under the tractor.
Last season with the B7510, I scraped alot of ice off asphalt, and this spring I noticed the wear edge of my bucket was torched with the edge curling up from abrasion. I am looking into a replaceable bolt on wear edge, and maybe a polyethelene edge for winter. The wear edge from H&H to match the bolt pattern of the toothbar I already have from H&H is $500. Ouch! Alot cheaper than a new bucket or welding in a new edge, but certainly way overpriced. I can get a 5/8" X 6" X 66" wear edge for $120.
Jeff H
Gold Member
It might not look "Kubota Kool" but I am looking at the 46" blade from my Troy Bilt mower and I could easily adapt that to the 4 brush guard holes on the front of the BX. I figure that costs me $0 since I already own it.
Now I wonder if I could add some hydraulics to it cheaply, at least a cylinder to lift it!
Now I wonder if I could add some hydraulics to it cheaply, at least a cylinder to lift it!
coveredbridge
Gold Member
D) Push snow with the loader. That's what I do. My driveway isn't paved so I can't scrape it bare anyway. I just curl the bucket a little and put it in float position. It gets the job done for me.
drag_slick
Bronze Member
The answer is, as always, "it depends". I live in ND and we've just come off a near record setting winter. I have 900ft of gravel road between me and the highway. My main snow removal tool is my 1/2 ton GMC crew cab 4x4 with a Snow Sport blade. The problem with blade only is, at some point you run out of places to push it, or simply, you cannot push through a 6ft tall, 12ft wide, 30ft long drift.
I ended up buying a 50" Buhler rear blower as I didn't want to lose my loader. As some have mentioned, it's not bad running it side saddle. I'm very impressed with how well the tractor handled it. Hydro is a blessing there, much easier to feed the blower without sucking the guts out of the engine. I did put tire chains on the back and that made a world of difference. I would recommend that.
Again, it really depends on how bad things get where YOU are at, but after last winter, I wouldn't be without a blower.
I ended up buying a 50" Buhler rear blower as I didn't want to lose my loader. As some have mentioned, it's not bad running it side saddle. I'm very impressed with how well the tractor handled it. Hydro is a blessing there, much easier to feed the blower without sucking the guts out of the engine. I did put tire chains on the back and that made a world of difference. I would recommend that.
Again, it really depends on how bad things get where YOU are at, but after last winter, I wouldn't be without a blower.