Quality drill bits for metal.

[kenmac]

I bought some of those HF bits. I know how to sharpen bits and The HF bits just aren't worth the effort.
I invested in a good set and my life is much better.

I have purchased the small sets of B&D bits from Wal mart and found they are of descent quality.
Bought some larger bits 5/8, 3/4, etc, when I have needed them from TSC and they are of descent quality

If you waste your time sharpening a HF bit, you will continue wasting your time as you will continue to sharpen that bit and not drilling the hole LOL

 

[pmsmechanic]

30 years ago my dad bought me a drill index with drill bits for Christmas. I have no idea what brand they are. I treasure that index and numerous bits are still original. When I replace I usually just go to the local NAPA store and buy individual bits as needed. They work well enough for me.

I agree that sharpening by hand is a skill easily learned and well worth learning. I don't mind sharpening any size bit. You can use fine sandpaper or a wet stone on the really small ones. For the larger ones I use the side of the grind stone. It's always dressed and a lot easier to control the bit while grinding. I don't always get a perfect point but sharpening is a lot faster than a 40 minute round trip to NAPA for a new one. The pot for cooling water behind the grinder is always wet.

 

[jyoutz]

I have a drill bit sharpener but IMO, it isn't worth the time it takes to get right.

There are good industrial quality bits out there but they're expensive. I don't do a lot of machining anymore so for bits under a half inch, I buy in bulk and toss them when they wear out.

I've had pretty good luck with these:

Amazon.com

Boy, the reviews aren’t consistent: people seem to either love or hate them.

 

[jaxs]

Boy, the reviews aren’t consistent: people seem to either love or hate them.

Isn't that the truth but same as any subject,if you weed out blowhards,strut & preeners,it start's making sense.

 

[BravoXray]

After many years drilling holes in all sorts of materials, I have made it a rule to only buy industrial grade cobalt bits, most from McMaster-Carr.
I recently had to drill 60 3/8" holes in some 3/4" thick steel bar stock for a friend's project, and the cobalt bit I used drilled the last one just as fast as the first. Proper drill speed, plenty of coolant/lube and moderate pressure get the job done.

 

[jaxs]

Correct pressure and speed will preserve bit life regardless of it's quility. Curls from mild steel and chips from cast.

 

[MossRoad]

All of my life's problems would be solved by learning to sharpen things.

The funny thing is that I've always been fanatical about sharp stuff. Cannot abide a dull knife, etc. As for drill bits its hard to say if I'm doing it right because most of the bits are junk bits. I'll get about as much drill time out of one after sharpening it as I did when it was new....which is not much. I think using the narrow belt sander is way easier than a grinder.

As mentioned, speed is critical and as shown in those videos pressure requirements vary with different metals and different bits. When hand drilling there is usually a sweet spot with both pressure and speed. I can't say if the shaving size or shape tells me much but I can usually feel the sweet spot. The issue is that keeping constant speed with a hand drill that doesn't lock at a set speed is hard. Constant even pressure is hard too when you're 58 years old, not exactly in tip top shape and lying in wet gravel.

I have an old corded black and decker variable speed hand drill that has a knob on the trigger that can be used to limit top speed. I loved that thing. The battery powered drills at my employer (Dewalt) do not have that feature. It's all by feel.

But nothing is better than lying in wet gravel. Man, that's the life!

 

[oldtimer 66]

My comments. Rule of thumb, after 1/3 of the flute length is consumed from sharpening the drill should be discarded. The web becomes to thick and causes the drill force increase. Option is to grind a split point if possible. When the drill depth is over two times the diameter it is considered deep hole drilling. When drilling copper put a small flat on the face of the cutting edges to keep the drill from grabbing. Use a 90 deg spot drill when drilling with a conventional 118 deg drill. This way you do not point load the drill, causing it to walk. You can use a 120 deg spot drill when using a 135 deg drill. I have my ENCO drill press/ belt drive with shives/ set on the slowest speed. It is mainly used on steel. I cannot remember when and if I ever increases the spindle speed for all steel/ metal drilling.

 

[RoninB4]

Correct pressure and speed will preserve bit life regardless of it's quility. Curls from mild steel and chips from cast.

Agree with your guidelines for bit life. Also agree with your examples of curl vs. chips but it can be a little more complicated than that. It's also dependent upon material being cut and the cutting edge geometry. Non-fluted carbide drills (many types) will often only produce chips due to the geometry of the cutting edge in relation to the material. Even fluted HSS drills can sometimes only produce chips, like a drill going through brass when the edges have been purposely blunted with a hand stone. Relative hardness of the material can matter as well, aluminum usually comes out in big curls but sometimes it will chatter and only produce chips. Even cast iron can produce big curls instead of just chips like in gun drilling deep holes or if it's a malleable type of iron. Each situation/cutter/material presents it's own results.

This is likely way more than anybody wanted to know but I don't know much about tractors, rural living (rather new to it), or agriculture. I've gotten a lot on this board from the collective and wanted to say thank you with the only contribution I seem to know much about, cutting metal. I'll go sit down in the back row now......

 

[newbury]

Correct pressure and speed will preserve bit life regardless of it's quility. Curls from mild steel and chips from cast.

Is quility how it fits in the quill?