question about helper springs/bags

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks for the follow up. I really want these as my truck is constantly loaded with about 1,500 more lbs than an empty truck.

Did you get the onboard compressor? I'm going to get it as an onboard source of air would be great for me.

Could this be done completely on say a full Sunday with above average mechanical capability?

I thought you were going to put dually springs on to help the sagging problem?

Chris

 

[Builder]

If you need airbags, IMHO you are probably overweight.
Have you actually weighed the truck and checked it vs the sticker on the side of the door?

Having the airbags just makes it "feel" like you are fine. The frame, brakes, suspension, etc aren't designed to handle all that weight. A properly loaded truck will still ride and drive fine even with a lot of weight, as long as it stays under that GVW. Automakers put a lot of money/research/liability into that weight label on the side of the door. It's there for a reason.

Just my opinion.

I disagree. My truck has a utility body loaded with tools. I run around typically at a GVWR of 8,500-9,000 lbs. Not overweight, but I would like to level off my truck a little bit, maybe raise the rear end up an inch or 2. Try running around with 2,000 lbs in the bed of your truck and you'll see what I mean.

 

[Builder]

I thought you were going to put dually springs on to help the sagging problem?

Chris

I would like to, but I can't find a newer DRW wreck anywhere with springs available.

I really should have bought a DRW truck for the extra capacity & deeper utility body boxes that hold more/bigger tools.

Next one will be a DRW. Problem is, I really love my truck and I got a great deal on it.

 

[allen in texas]

If you need airbags, IMHO you are probably overweight.
Have you actually weighed the truck and checked it vs the sticker on the side of the door?

Having the airbags just makes it "feel" like you are fine. The frame, brakes, suspension, etc aren't designed to handle all that weight. A properly loaded truck will still ride and drive fine even with a lot of weight, as long as it stays under that GVW. Automakers put a lot of money/research/liability into that weight label on the side of the door. It's there for a reason.

Just my opinion.

Go back to my first post. Note that I mentioned that when I bought the truck, I raised the frontend of the truck and only the front. ANY load now, without the airbags makes the truck sit low in the tail. The bags are merely raising the tail back up so that it sits level when loaded. I am not over loaded.
When I raised the front of the truck, I COULD have raised the rear also but that would have defeated the point of making the truck level when empty.
Normally, I carry about 800 pounds of tongue weight.
I plan to carry up to 1500 with my new trailer (gooseneck) and I still want to be able to level the truck. 1500 pounds will not over load it. It is after all, a 3/4 ton truck.

Diamond pilot,
I haven't gotten the onboard compressor but it's on the list as is a MAX brake controller, and a harness to move the trailer connections into the bed.
I ordered a B&W turnover ball hitch Monday and it is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. 10/8/08

The trailer I'm getting is a Maxey 83"x16' Gooseneck dump trailer rated at 14,000 pounds.

According to my PRECISE measurements, I can pick up my box blade and put it in the front of the trailer, then load my 3240 behind it with my tiller on,
set the loader bucket on the gooseneck and close the gate of the trailer.

It'll be close, but I think it will work.

 

[allen in texas]

You have your ride height set correctly when people stop flashing their highbeams at you!

Good point!!

 

[Heywood Jannockitov]

I also disagree (with Lonecowboy), GVWR is an arbitrary figure. You can increase it by simply having your motor vehicle licensing office increase it for a fee. I boosted my GVWR from 4500 kg up to 7000 kg so I could tow my 3 horse slant legally. By affixing farm plates, the cost to tag the truck every year stayed about the same. The truck itself benefited greatly by the addition of the helper springs which do in fact increase load capacity. According to 2 mechanics I know, even new 1 ton duallies are undersprung from the factory and benefit from airbags. They say no one adds helper leaf springs anymore, all airbags. The added bonus, being you can modulate the firmness.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

Has anyone put the air bags front and rear? how did it work out?

Matt T.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I did on a 1986 Toyota 2 wheel drive show truck I had. I was going after a different style. We had the frame notched and could drop the truck 9"

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would like to, but I can't find a newer DRW wreck anywhere with springs available.

I really should have bought a DRW truck for the extra capacity & deeper utility body boxes that hold more/bigger tools.

Next one will be a DRW. Problem is, I really love my truck and I got a great deal on it.

I would think twice about the DRW. Yes, if I were a transporter moving large trailers like hot shotters or camper delivery I would want a 2 wheel drive DRW. The DRW on a 4x4's that I have drive did awful in the snow, which I believe you get a lot of like me and they really suck in the mud. I have seen pics of your truck in some heavy mud. Also, most DRW truck seem to have the fenders beat up from tree branches, narrow drive up, bank machines, single car garages, ect. I know you will have a utility bed on it so it may be a different story.

Have you checked with GM just to see what they cost new. I was surprised when I needed a hitch for my F-250 years ago that Ford was cheaper than many aftermarket units and it was a 2.5" hitch, not a 2" unit like most.

Chris

 

[3RRL]

Has anyone put the air bags front and rear? how did it work out?

Matt T.

Yeah Matt, I did.
See post #2 above. They worked great.