question about hydraulics. Log splitter

[allen in texas]

I'm new here but I read a lot so I thought I would make my first post and ask a question. Or several as the case may be...
I have a 3240 and I want to build a log splitter for the 3pt and run it off of one of the remotes.
First, I am wondering about what cylinder to use.
I am considering a 4 inch with an 18 in stroke.
Big enough? Too big?

Would the cycle time be too slow, ie to extend and retract.
Would it have enough power? (most likely)

Not much else to ask right now.

allen

 

[ToadHill]

4" should be big enough for most splitting, but I think you'll want a longer stroke. Most I'm familiar with use 24" stroke or more.

 

[allen in texas]

I can go 24 inches on the stroke. I haven't bought the cylinder yet.

 

[bx24]

Most splitters I have seen are 4" (as mine is), but you would get 25% faster cycle times with a 3" ram. This should split most of the wood varieties out there. While I always prefer more power, time is becoming more and more important to me

 

[WayneB]

I can go 24 inches on the stroke. I haven't bought the cylinder yet.

Although I have a gas-powered splitter it does have a 4" x 24" cylinder with a two stage 16 gpm pump. With my splitter it splits anything I can lift onto it. I hear a lot about speed of splitting and from what I have found out it will keep me busy all day long and there are no moments that I am waiting on the splitter. Actually, I am happy to get ahead of it once in awhile just so I can catch my breath.

Few things that you might want to consider while you are building the splitter:

Log cradle: This is just a platform on each side of the splitting wedge that catches and holds the split log. Makes for less bending over once the piece is split into sections. Just pans on each side of the splitting area.

4 way wedge: I have one on my splitter and use it some of the time if the wood is the right size and only needs to be split into four pieces. They also make a 6-way wedge, not sure what kind of stress this puts onto the machine?

Log Lift: If you have an extra hydraulic line you could build a lift to move those big logs onto the splitter. I don't have one on my splitter, but there sure have been times when I wish I did.

Not sure just how much you plan on spending on a 3P hitch splitter, but when I was looking the price started at around 849 for 24" splitter. They had splitters ranging from 24" up to 48" in the 3P hitch models. Only had the 4 way wedges on the horizontal models.



I got mine from American M.S.R., Inc.
there websites:

Log splitter, wood conveyor and firewood processor by American CLS

 

[B2400]

You really need to know: gpm output and hydraulic operating PSI of tractor to decide what cylinder size to use. Most tracors run at or above 2000psi line pressure but the pump outputs vary widely. My guess would be if your under 11gpm your going to be happier with a 4" cylinder, if it runs higher than that then a 5" will produce more force for the same line pressure.

 

[bross]

I used a 5" cylinder with a 24 inch travel. It has enough power to split anything but it's a little on the slow side. It's fast enough for me because I do most of my splitting by myself but if you are lucky enough to have a helper you'll have to wait on the splitter. If I build another one I would probably go with the 4" cylinder and give up some power for a little more speed.

 

[mpowrd]

A question I have that is related to this is about hook-up.

We're getting a BX24 next week with a 2-spool valve for remote tilt and top cylinders.

Could a log splitter be plumbed into either the backhoe connections or the tilt/top valve?

Doesn't the circuit to the splitter need to be "live" all the time so that the control valve on the splitter functions properly?

 

[ovrszd]

I'm new here but I read a lot so I thought I would make my first post and ask a question. Or several as the case may be...
I have a 3240 and I want to build a log splitter for the 3pt and run it off of one of the remotes.
First, I am wondering about what cylinder to use.
I am considering a 4 inch with an 18 in stroke.
Big enough? Too big?

Would the cycle time be too slow, ie to extend and retract.
Would it have enough power? (most likely)

Not much else to ask right now.

allen

I built mine with a PTO 21 gpm pump, 4.5"cyl barrel with 2" ram, 24" stroke. I used a PTO pump to get speed. The pump cost me $429. I put a high value on speed so it was worth it to me. Cycle time of 4-5 seconds. I also built a catch platform for the split pieces. I love my splitter. For those logs you can't lift I simply lower it to the ground and roll it on. For normal sized logs I have the splitter at a height that doesn't kill my back. I don't like vertical splitters for that reason. When you are done splitting the wood is laying on the ground. I've attached a couple pics. I really enjoyed building mine, hope you do too.

Question for everyone using remotes,,,, how do you reach the remote lever while holding the log on the splitter??? Hmmmmm.....

 

[ovrszd]

I used a 5" cylinder with a 24 inch travel. It has enough power to split anything but it's a little on the slow side. It's fast enough for me because I do most of my splitting by myself but if you are lucky enough to have a helper you'll have to wait on the splitter. If I build another one I would probably go with the 4" cylinder and give up some power for a little more speed.

Bross, I notice you have a valve on your splitter but are running it from the tractor's hydraulics. How do you do that??? Do you tarp strap the remote valve handle in an open position?? Thanks in advance for the clarification.

 

[rbargeron]

I'm new here but I read a lot so I thought I would make my first post and ask a question. Or several as the case may be...
I have a 3240 and I want to build a log splitter for the 3pt and run it off of one of the remotes.
First, I am wondering about what cylinder to use.
I am considering a 4 inch with an 18 in stroke.
Big enough? Too big?

Would the cycle time be too slow, ie to extend and retract.
Would it have enough power? (most likely)

Welcome to TBN posting !

The L3240 has a 8.3 gpm pump so with the engine at around 2500 rpm a 4" cylinder will go 2-1/2" per second and a 3" cylinder will go 4-1/2" per second.

The relief pressure is around 1800 psi so a 3" cylinder will work ok if the wedge has a slow taper. A 4" cylinder has 77% more ram area so makes 77% more force. That allows a faster taper on the wedge so most of your wood splits open with less travel. This means the actual working strokes may be shorter with a 4" cylinder and cycle time may not be that much longer.

On length, its always good to be able to push all the way if needed. Stringy stuff can be a pain if the ram can't go most of the way to the wedge. 24" is a good stroke length.

 

[Shantycoke]

I have a 4" valve with a 24" stroke for my B7800. Cycle time is not the greatest,but acceptable, and it is powerful enough to split almost anything.
Hope this helps, best of luck.
Pat

 

[allen in texas]

Ok I came back to check this this afternoon and there are some really good ideas out there.
First,
Thanks everyone for responding.
Second, as far as working the tractor controls from the splitter, I was just going to fabricate a lever on the splitter with a link to the control lever on the tractor.
Seems to be a really simple thing to do, and besides, the PTO driven hydraulic pump is putting this out of my price range. I strongly considered a PTO pump.

I was going to base my splitter on this one http://www.ramsplitter.com/000_0082.jpg.

I probably did the link wrong, but I'm learning

I don't have large wood to split but if I have the occasional large log I want to be able to handle it.
I've found a new 4" x 20" cylinder for a pretty good price and I already have an 8 foot piece if "I" beam to use.
I guess I just need decide if I want vertical or horizontal, whether I want to push the log or push the wedge and go buy a couple of hoses and some orange paint and then get to work.

 

[bross]

Ovrsxd, I am using the tractor's hydraulics. In the picture the hoses aren't hooked up, but when I'm using the splitter I disconnect the quick connects on the hydraulic lines to the loader and connect the splitter in there.

 

[ovrszd]

Ovrsxd, I am using the tractor's hydraulics. In the picture the hoses aren't hooked up, but when I'm using the splitter I disconnect the quick connects on the hydraulic lines to the loader and connect the splitter in there.

You are accessing the hydraulic flow prior to it going into the loader controllers?? If so that would make sense.

 

[xlr82v2]

*snip*
I guess I just need decide if I want vertical or horizontal, whether I want to push the log or push the wedge and go buy a couple of hoses and some orange paint and then get to work.

Allen,

I've used both types of splitters quite a bit... I very much prefer the wedge being mounted to the hydraulic cylinder. That way the log stays stationary while splitting, and you don't have to try to catch and hold it while it's moving. With big pieces, it makes for a lot less struggling with the wood. With the wedge stationary, you have to drag the log back into position each time for the next split.

I'd suggest you try each type, if possible, before you make your decision. I think you'll find that the wedge-on-cylinder design is the easiest and fastest to work with.

 

[allen in texas]

Thanks Brian.
I had pretty much decided to push the wedge.
Pretty much for the reasons you mention
I had decided on a horizontal but after a lot of thought, It would be pretty simple to hinge and pin it to go either way.

 

[xlr82v2]

Yep, I'd build a horizontal/vertical if it were me too. Easy enough to do.

Vertical isn't the most useful mode, but it sure does come in handy when you get into the hernia wood.

 

[gdib]

I have a Kubota L3400 with a FEL and would like to tap into the hydraulics for a Northern equipment 3pt log splitter. I am willing to deal with the slow performance. It seems the easiest and least expensive method would be to connect into one of the QD on the FEL.
I would disconnect one of the bucket (curl) connectors for the valve input (should be a Prince LS3000) on the splitter. I don't believe the valve has a power beyond and therefore I would connect the valve return to a port plug (75541-68150) which is available through Kubota for about $20. Finally I would use a bungee cord to hold the valve open on the FEL and use the valve on the splitter. The only additional expenses in this setup are the 2 hoses with QD and the port plug. If I am missing something in this design I would greatly appreciate any input . Thanks
greg

 

[Farmerford]

Greg:

You can accomplish what you want by connecting the log splitter valve to the A and B ports of the bucket spool with quick disconnects and then holding the bucket spool open with a bungee cord in the direction required to sent high pressure fluid from the pump to the inlet port on the splitter valve.

But there is a risk of at least damaging the seals on the splitter valve (and perhaps worse) if you use the three point hitch at the same time that the FEL spool is shifted, since the splitter valve has no power beyond. The pressure needed to operate the tph will also be present in the exhaust gallery of the splitter valve, and I doubt (but have not checked) if it is rated for more than 200-500 psig back pressure. You can probably get by if you return the FEL spool to neutral every time you raise the tph, but that seems like a trap for someone who is not familiar with the system.
If (and that's a big if) you are not going to use the three point hitch,