Buying Advice Questions about potential purchase, not sure where to start

[Carl_NH]

Yes! I have truck - I'll look into this further if I decide to go this direction. There's an equipment rental business similar to what you described in the area, I guess I'm more anxious about doing this on my own and would prefer paying a premium for help to avoid introducing chaos / danger to the public.

How did you make out in your tractor search this weekend? Was the kubota 7510 a buy or pass? Then tym or other Machines peak your interest?

 

[Yander]

@Yander doesn't the SA series have it's own proprietary Quick Attach system?

I wouldn't consider that pin-on.

I've got to say, for these smaller machines John Deere's quick-attach is my favorite.

It is a pin but it's made not to require tools. It's about like pulling two Hitch pins with a cotter key. I can do it in under two minutes. Probably under a minute if I tried.

They are made to hook to the implement using brackets on the back of implement that line up the holes so no concern with lining things up.

 

[WinterDeere]

It is a pin but it's made not to require tools.

Exactly. So what are you even arguing about? You come here saying that anyone can swap pinned-on buckets, as if JDQA and SSQA have absolutely no value, but the example you hold up in support of that is not a common pinned bucket arrangement at all.

Yes, there are systems other than JDQA and SSQA that offer the ability to remove the bucket. There's Global, and Yanmar's proprietary tool-less pin system, among others. But this is not what anyone is talking about, when discussing pinned buckets, in general.

 

[Yander]

Exactly. So what are you even arguing about? You come here saying that anyone can swap pinned-on buckets, as if JDQA and SSQA have absolutely no value, but the example you hold up in support of that is not a common pinned bucket arrangement at all.

Yes, there are systems other than JDQA and SSQA that offer the ability to remove the bucket. There's Global, and Yanmar's proprietary tool-less pin system, among others. But this is not what anyone is talking about, when discussing pinned buckets, in general.

I'm not the one who is lumping the modern Yanmar tractor into the pin on bucket category, that was you.

Telling people to only consider SSQA like it is the only viable option. Go reread your post.

 

[WinterDeere]

Telling people to only consider SSQA like it is the only viable option. Go reread your post.

I wouldn't do that. I know JDQA is better than SSQA.

j/k. And sorry if my wording came across other than intended, so let me correct it: You want some way to be able to quickly remove your bucket and install other attachments. JDQA and SSQA are generally the best way to do this, in terms of finding attachments pre-configured for fitting your tractor, but there are other less common options out there.

 

[fattylumpkins]

How did you make out in your tractor search this weekend? Was the kubota 7510 a buy or pass? Then tym or other Machines peak your interest?

It went ~okay~ - the TYM / LS dealer was closed and it almost looked abandoned, so probably not an option.

I ended up testing positive for covid on Saturday, so I cancelled the visit to the tractor until I'm better. Prior to feeling poorly and realizing I was sick, I did go to see JD / Kubota with my dad. If we're going with how I felt about the dealer, I preferred the JD - they were really helpful, and even showed me used 1023e (with loader and upgraded seat) that is a couple years old and has 88 hours ($12K). They were pragmatic about what I needed and was comfortable with / had space for, and didn't pressure me into making a decision.

The Kubota was an more intense sales pitch versus just trying to figure out what I was comfortable with / needing for my property. Thanks to you guys, my eyebrow raised when he dismissed the B series I was looking at and walked me over to a enormous L series to assert I'd regret not spending $40K on the equipment I needed.

That's how it went - I have already purchased a mower from the JD dealer and I've had a good experience with them, getting my mower serviced annually, getting parts / customer support on my other equipment issues when I mess something up, etc. I have some thinking to do when I'm on the up and up.

Thanks for the continued discussion, everyone! I have learned so much!

 

[WinterDeere]

I have already purchased a mower from the JD dealer and I've had a good experience with them, getting my mower serviced annually, getting parts / customer support on my other equipment issues when I mess something up, etc. I have some thinking to do when I'm on the up and up.

Another factor to consider, if you already have a machine thru one dealer, is cost of transport. I've only ever had the dealer pick my machines up once, the year I was building a new shop, but IIRC the cost to pick up two machines was the same (or nearly the same) as retrieving one. You're paying drive time, not machine count.

So, if you already have one machine serviced by that particular dealer, there's savings to be had by also getting your other machines from that dealer, no matter the brand.

 

[2manyrocks]

More sales commission on $40k sale than $12k.

Hope you get well soon.

 

[Yander]

I think the 1024e is a good choice for a first tractor. Can't believe I just said that : ). Because.... I like to see people buy used and small. I'm one of the few who will tell you this but I think it is good to learn on a smaller tractor. I also think buying slightly used is good. That tractor is like new. You use it for a year or two and find that it is too small and you can easily get all your money back out of it to sell or trade.

Then you get the tractor you need. I'm on tractor #7. All have been of various make and sizes etc. I've learned what I do/don't like and now if I go buy a new one, it will be the right fit for my current needs.

Also, needs change so the tractor will also. I do not think I have lost money on a tractor yet and I always tend to buy slightly used (Under 800 hours) and keep them anywhere from 1-5 years.

I have only bought one new tractor, my current Yanmar SA425 (2022 model year), which my wife loves and told me I'm not to sell. She also uses it.

 

[airbiscuit]

Did you get to operate any tractors?

 

[WinterDeere]

I also think buying slightly used is good. That tractor is like new. You use it for a year or two and find that it is too small and you can easily get all your money back out of it to sell or trade.

Agreed. I've never lost a dime on a used tractor, in fact I have resold for more than I paid at time of purchase, more than once. I do lose a little in inflationary cost ($10k is worth less at time of sale than at time of purchase), but that is usually all.

Back when I was shopping new Deere's in 2019, the E-variants of each series had non-removable loaders, whereas the R-variants had removable loaders. There are many other things that make the E's cheaper, "E" standing for "Economy", but the removable loader was the big one for me. You may also want to check availability of 3rd channel remote on the E's, if you think you might ever want a grapple, snowplow, or hydraulic top link.

If cost were no object and this were a "forever" purchase, the 1025R is likely a much nicer machine than the 1023E. But I agree with Yander that whatever you buy today, as a first-timer, may just be a stepping stone to your more permanent tractor, and you won't lose any serious money in buying used and reselling after a few years.

 

[tacticalturnip]

So, I've not posted about this because my PC is dead, but work is slow today... so...

A lot of us started out with subcompacts, and some of us found we need/wanted larger, but many others still hold onto their subcompacts for a long time. I started with a Deere 1025R and loved it for a number of years until I decided I was set to purchase a larger machine. Now I've got a compact Kioti and I mow with a Cub Cadet lawn tractor. I learned from my subcompact that while I really liked mowing with it, I absolutely hated swapping the belly mower out- and that's the drive over system Deere had.

Anyhow you've got a mower for your finish work, so that moves some funds to purchase a 3 point rough cut mower.

I'll write more later, when I can.

 

[tacticalturnip]

Here is a collection of subcompacts to look over, compare ergonomics, etc. Not all though, as I've run out of time.

The Kioti CS-20 series is Kioti's current subcompact; the Bobcat is a Kioti CS-10 series in white with a Bobcat loader/backhoe- and a distinct hood.

Pardon Our Interruption

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LS is the OEM for CNH, or Case IH and New Holland, so the next 3 are roughly the same. Potential for better dealer and part support from the CNH machines.

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TYM also builds subcompacts for Bad Boy and previously Branson (now a part of TYM) and Mahindra.

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Mahindra recently introduced their new in-house subcompact. It's impressive on paper, but the only member I know who has one has had bad luck.

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I also encourage you to look at the Massey Ferguson GC and Deere 1 series machines.

Edited.

 

[rScotty]

It went ~okay~ - the TYM / LS dealer was closed and it almost looked abandoned, so probably not an option.

I ended up testing positive for covid on Saturday, so I cancelled the visit to the tractor until I'm better. Prior to feeling poorly and realizing I was sick, I did go to see JD / Kubota with my dad. If we're going with how I felt about the dealer, I preferred the JD - they were really helpful, and even showed me used 1023e (with loader and upgraded seat) that is a couple years old and has 88 hours ($12K). They were pragmatic about what I needed and was comfortable with / had space for, and didn't pressure me into making a decision.

The Kubota was an more intense sales pitch versus just trying to figure out what I was comfortable with / needing for my property. Thanks to you guys, my eyebrow raised when he dismissed the B series I was looking at and walked me over to a enormous L series to assert I'd regret not spending $40K on the equipment I needed.

That's how it went - I have already purchased a mower from the JD dealer and I've had a good experience with them, getting my mower serviced annually, getting parts / customer support on my other equipment issues when I mess something up, etc. I have some thinking to do when I'm on the up and up.

Thanks for the continued discussion, everyone! I have learned so much!

Wow!! The OP has just raised an interesting question. I don't know the answer, does anyone?

For those who say a good dealership is important, what does that mean? How do we to compare a new shop against one we have some experience with?
Ownership? Salesmen? Parts Dept? Repair Shop?

Probably not by the management; I wouldn't recognize an owner or boss unless they carried a sign. Besides, both my local JD and Kubota dealerships are both multi-store corporations, so ownership may not matter.

Judging by the personality of salesmen may seem easier, but is even also less likely to mean anything to the customer down the road. Salesman don't stay long, and many are either biased, on commission, or don't know much about their product anyway. I'd think the salesman would be the last person to judge by. Unfortunately, he may be the one only one encountered.

Parts? Service shop? These really are important.... or are they? Does anyone ever go behind the counter and talk to those guys about warranty & repair policy? How can a customer learn before buying? What about service tools and service schooling for the mechanics? How do those people learn the technical part of their job?

rScotty

 

[tacticalturnip]

OP, your experience with the Deere dealer brings up memories of my old local franchise; I miss them.

 

[California]

... Does anyone ever go behind the counter and talk to those guys about warranty & repair policy? How can a customer learn before buying?

In a different thread I just posted a photo of the Trooper I bought new in 1988.

The salesman claimed nothing ever went wrong with them. I called his bluff, said lets go talk to a mechanic. We walked around back. The mechanic sounded honest, he said 1) that flat windshield attracts stones, they replace a lot of windshields. (My experience, too). And 2) A couple of years prior they sold a shipment that must have omitted the tempering in the transmission gears, several failed soon. Repaired under warranty. No other problems.

He was right. I made it to 120k miles when the neighbor's tree fell on it 16 years later and totalled it. The under $15k it had cost was money well spent, and that mechanic's comments were credible.

So yes, go around back and talk to the shop you will rely on for maintenance. You might get a sense of whether you should do business with them.

 

[WinterDeere]

I like that story, California, and think it's generally good advice. But how many good mechanics or service managers have really bad people skills, or vice versa?

 

[California]

I like that story, California, and think it's generally good advice. But how many good mechanics or service managers have really bad people skills, or vice versa?

It's a gamble, but there's a chance you'll learn something useful. Sometimes. Good salesman, good mechanic back in the shop.

Next car after that ('99 Subaru Outback, still have it) was priced, I thought, a little high. Salesman seemed desperate but I eventually got him down to my price. Went in Monday with my check ... 'Sergei doesn't work here anymore'. Guess I beat him up for real.

But those b******* got back at me. 22 miles were put on the car between signing and Monday morning. Then I discovered no dash lights, no high beams, no horn, no brake lights! A couple of other circuits sabotaged. I took it to the dealer farther away, they said several fuses had been removed. I expect the first dealer wanted me to return and pay them to diagnose their damage. Great car. Awful dealer.

Fattylumpkins, try to appraise if the dealer is someone you want to work with long term.

 

[Williy]

mgfattylumkin covid is a virus try taking 1000 mg vit "C"
every 4 hours as every 3 to 4 hours if your system don't
use it it spits it out. Do this just while your awake for 2 or
3 days

willy

 

[WinterDeere]

Vitamin D, too. Research has shown that the reason "flu season" is a season, is at least partly because our vitamin D levels drop in winter, due to reduced sun exposure. The early studies I read on this 10 years ago showed that those taking any amount of vitamin D as a supplement caught colds and flu less frequently than those without, and beat it down quicker when they did. At the time, there were future studies scheduled to determine the ideal maintenance levels, or how much to take to achieve a given effect, but I never chased down or read those follow-ups.