Questions about purchasing a skid steer

   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #1  

Lineman North Florida

Elite Member
Joined
May 12, 2008
Messages
2,771
Location
LaCrosse Florida
Tractor
Farmtrac 360 DTC with FEL & John Deere 5093E with FEL ,Kubota SVL 75-2
I am on the verge of retiring and am interested in purchasing a used skid steer and front mounted mower and grapple for use around the farm and to possibly do some work for others as a side gig, I already have tractors and and equipment but am amazed at how much more things that can also be done with a skid steer with the right attachments. My main questions are what should I be looking out for when buying a used skid steer? How many hours are to many? Tracked unit verses tires? Any brands to stay away from? Will standard flow work or do I need to purchase one with high flow? Any assistance appreciated. Charlie.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Moderator after looking a little closer I believe I should have put this in the Skid steer section, could you move it for me if that is possible? Thank you.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #3  
Lineman just like anything else hours can be easy and they can be hard depending on the operator. Now at 2000+ it might be getting close for lines hydraulic starting to leak down in the "belly". If you're not under pressure with competing offers on a machine that your serious about, bring along a mechanic if you're questioning yourself.
I don't think I'm telling you anything that you don't know already. The SS / CTL question in my opinion is dependent on the ground conditions that you'll be operating on. I believe a lot of guys get the CTL just for the cool factor, I've read more than a few articles about the $8-$12/hour additional cost attributed to the track wear cost. Now if tracks make it useable where a SS would be sitting, that's a whole different story. I firmly believe that in the lighter operating weight machines, tracks become more important, mainly for stability. When you get up into the 2000+ pound (roc) machines, the wheelbase starts to get longer, that equals stability. The only (track) machine that I'd turn you away from for farm or personal use is the ASV or Cat's machine that uses the asv track system. Guys love them for the ride and I've heard a little better traction do to the unique design. But they are very parts and roller/idler/axles and seals "intensive" and come rebuild time, I know guys that just sell them off.
I do have a buddy that loves his Cat machines with the "multi terrain" I think it's called undercarriage (ASV based) but he's making a lot of money with it and is willing to pay the price.
I have a mower for my SS and it mostly sits, actually for years at a time. My tractor is a much better mower. I do have high flow but the mower is std flow. I have mid 20's gpm on my std flow so it's not a lack of hyd juice.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer
  • Thread Starter
#4  
RustyIron ,Thanks for the reply, I think with the places that I am going to have to go that tracks are going to be my best bet, and as you said hours can be hard or easy, I think it's a shot in the dark buying a used machine but hopefully I can find one that has been well maintained.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #5  
Everything I know about Skid Steers I got from watching Andrew Camarata.

Basically:

- Stay away from Bobcat
- Tracks (get a couple digging bars and a battery powered grease gun - buy grease by the case(s))
- Bigger be better.

All I got.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #6  
Stanley Dirt Monkey Channel can inform you quite a bit as his landscaping and snow clearing business based in the Twin cities goes through a lot of equipment.

Here is one of his videos.

 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #7  
Last fall, I bought my first skid steer. Its a 2015 Bobcat T550. It is a track machine and had about 2500 hours on it. I bought it from a rental company. So far, it has served my needs and I've put a little over 100 hours on it.

I paid $17,000 plus tax for it. I saw a very similar machine sell at auction a few weeks ago for $18,000. It was from the same rental place and had about the same hours.

I have mixed feelings about buying from a rental place. Yes, those machines get abused, but they are also properly maintained by the rental company, and they make the renters pay for repairs. Ask me how I know about that.

Mine gets used mostly for loading sand into a spreader for topdressing athletic fields. It is also nice to have around the shop for moving things around. It has a lot more lift capacity than my tractors.

I recently used a Kubota SVL 75 on another job, and after using that machine, I immediately began look at buying a Kubota. It's just a much nicer machine than the Bobcat. The joystick controls on the Kubota are much easier than the foot controls on the Bobcat. The Bobcat T550 is a very base model.

For my needs, the track machine seems to be a better fit than the tires.

Also, you need to look at a 'radial' lift vs. a 'vertical' lift. The basic difference between radial and vertical, is that at full height, the radial will be closer to the machine than the vertical. This can be an issue when loading a dump truck or something similar. Mine is a radial lift and I wish I had a vertical lift. Of course, the vertical lift cost more.

If I find a Kubota for a reasonable price, I will be selling my Bobcat.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #8  
Tracked will give you a rougher ride as there is no tire to cushion. Track also distributes weight better so if you are traveling across lawns, etc it is a must. Track is also more stable on flat and hilly terrain. Wheeled machine is best on compact, flat terrain you don’t mind tearing up (ie a build site, or a road). Track will cost you more of course. As far as implements get ready to pay more than you would for a 3PT version. Hydraulic implements are more expensive. They are also awesome. I recommend high flow just in case you grab something that will use it (mulcher, snow blower, etc).
 
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   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #9  
Unless you never plan to work off rock hard dirt get tracks. Wheels get stuck just about anywhere even remotely soft.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #10  
I am on the verge of retiring and am interested in purchasing a used skid steer and front mounted mower and grapple for use around the farm and to possibly do some work for others as a side gig, I already have tractors and and equipment but am amazed at how much more things that can also be done with a skid steer with the right attachments. My main questions are what should I be looking out for when buying a used skid steer? How many hours are to many? Tracked unit verses tires? Any brands to stay away from? Will standard flow work or do I need to purchase one with high flow? Any assistance appreciated. Charlie.
@Lineman North Florida I'm a little late to the party, but I'll address some of your questions that didn't get answered. I've been researching this topic for a number of months and am currently looking to buy a skid steer myself. The following is what I have pieced together by reading a lot and watching tons of youtube videos on the subject and this info is specific to smaller machines (e.g., skid steers and mini ex's) as larger ones have much longer lives.

What to look for (short version):

Blow-by - while the engine is running take the oil cap off and turn it over and set it on it's opening. It should not get blown off or around, if it does you have worn rings. Another test for this is to pull the dipstick and put a finger over the hole. You're feeling for pressure.

Leaks - hydraulic, oil, whatever, you shouldn't find any, bring a flashlight and crawl all over the machine. Lift the cab and do more looking.

Undercarriage - on a tracked machine, use the bucket (or a jack) to lift the machine off the ground as much as possible. Grab the roller wheels, they should spin easy, but not wobble.

Cold start the engine - it should smoke 10-15 seconds at most and then stop.

Check the hydraulics by using the bucket and arms to lift the machine, check the arms and bucket independently. As with a tractor, the arms and bucket should move smoothly. No jerky movements.

How many hours are too many:

You might as well ask, which oil is best. This answer is also somewhat brand, or at least engine maker, dependent. I have three friends that work on heavy machinery for a living, but they didn't agree on how many hours are too many. 4000 hours seems to be the area where most people agree a skid steer is starting to get old. That being said, Takeuchi has a reputation for better longevity, as do machines with Yanmar engines or the venerable Cummins 4b(t).

My goal, here, is to buy a machine with 1500-2500 hours and as new as possible. There are machines that are 25 years old with 1000 hours, which is great, but seals/o-rigs will be drying up at this point.
Also of concern is parts availability when you get older machines. I've asked around, here, and elsewhere about when do parts become hard to find and there's no real clear answer. A common theme is some brands, for example, bobcat, support their older machines better.

Tracks or tires:

Tires for use on pavement, demo work, or on rocks.

Tracked anywhere you need added traction (e.g., mud) or where you want less impact on the ground, such as on grass. Though tracks will tear up any surface if you're doing tight turns. Tracks for snow is hotly debated and appears to depend on the machine's suspension design and track pattern. ASV states that their suspension and track design adds greatly to traction during snow use.

As others mentioned, tracks add stability and cost.

Brands:

Each brand has had good units and bad units. The new DPF and DEF and other emissions requirements seem to be causing a lot of grief. I plan to avoid as many emissions as I can. As with tractors, having a good dealer w/ parts close is important. For example, while ASV is a good brand, the closest dealer to me is 3 hours away. Some brands, for example, Gehl have a large regional presence, but it's sparse in other areas.

I'll be buying 10-20 years old, so I plan to stick with Bobcat, John Deere, Cat, Case or Takeuchi.

High Flow:

If you can get high flow, do it. Most brush hogs I've looked at have a minimum flow rate of 16 gpm. There are a lot of machines at this flow rate, but a number of older machines dip to the 13-15 gpm area. While 16 gpm will run the brush hogs, but there will be a lot of waiting for the brush hog to spin up to speed if you're mowing thicker stuff, and a lot of other attachments, more is better. If you want to run a mulcher, definitely get high flow.

Yes, this is the short version. Hope it helps.

Oh, one last thing. Some older skid steers control the bucket and arms w/ foot controls, while others (and newer machines) use joystick controls. Totally user preference as to which is better, but try both, it may push you one direction or another.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer
  • Thread Starter
#11  
@Lineman North Florida I'm a little late to the party, but I'll address some of your questions that didn't get answered. I've been researching this topic for a number of months and am currently looking to buy a skid steer myself. The following is what I have pieced together by reading a lot and watching tons of youtube videos on the subject and this info is specific to smaller machines (e.g., skid steers and mini ex's) as larger ones have much longer lives.

What to look for (short version):

Blow-by - while the engine is running take the oil cap off and turn it over and set it on it's opening. It should not get blown off or around, if it does you have worn rings. Another test for this is to pull the dipstick and put a finger over the hole. You're feeling for pressure.

Leaks - hydraulic, oil, whatever, you shouldn't find any, bring a flashlight and crawl all over the machine. Lift the cab and do more looking.

Undercarriage - on a tracked machine, use the bucket (or a jack) to lift the machine off the ground as much as possible. Grab the roller wheels, they should spin easy, but not wobble.

Cold start the engine - it should smoke 10-15 seconds at most and then stop.

Check the hydraulics by using the bucket and arms to lift the machine, check the arms and bucket independently. As with a tractor, the arms and bucket should move smoothly. No jerky movements.

How many hours are too many:

You might as well ask, which oil is best. This answer is also somewhat brand, or at least engine maker, dependent. I have three friends that work on heavy machinery for a living, but they didn't agree on how many hours are too many. 4000 hours seems to be the area where most people agree a skid steer is starting to get old. That being said, Takeuchi has a reputation for better longevity, as do machines with Yanmar engines or the venerable Cummins 4b(t).

My goal, here, is to buy a machine with 1500-2500 hours and as new as possible. There are machines that are 25 years old with 1000 hours, which is great, but seals/o-rigs will be drying up at this point.
Also of concern is parts availability when you get older machines. I've asked around, here, and elsewhere about when do parts become hard to find and there's no real clear answer. A common theme is some brands, for example, bobcat, support their older machines better.

Tracks or tires:

Tires for use on pavement, demo work, or on rocks.

Tracked anywhere you need added traction (e.g., mud) or where you want less impact on the ground, such as on grass. Though tracks will tear up any surface if you're doing tight turns. Tracks for snow is hotly debated and appears to depend on the machine's suspension design and track pattern. ASV states that their suspension and track design adds greatly to traction during snow use.

As others mentioned, tracks add stability and cost.

Brands:

Each brand has had good units and bad units. The new DPF and DEF and other emissions requirements seem to be causing a lot of grief. I plan to avoid as many emissions as I can. As with tractors, having a good dealer w/ parts close is important. For example, while ASV is a good brand, the closest dealer to me is 3 hours away. Some brands, for example, Gehl have a large regional presence, but it's sparse in other areas.

I'll be buying 10-20 years old, so I plan to stick with Bobcat, John Deere, Cat, Case or Takeuchi.

High Flow:

If you can get high flow, do it. Most brush hogs I've looked at have a minimum flow rate of 16 gpm. There are a lot of machines at this flow rate, but a number of older machines dip to the 13-15 gpm area. While 16 gpm will run the brush hogs, but there will be a lot of waiting for the brush hog to spin up to speed if you're mowing thicker stuff, and a lot of other attachments, more is better. If you want to run a mulcher, definitely get high flow.

Yes, this is the short version. Hope it helps.

Oh, one last thing. Some older skid steers control the bucket and arms w/ foot controls, while others (and newer machines) use joystick controls. Totally user preference as to which is better, but try both, it may push you one direction or another.
Thanks for all of your input, I am retiring at the end of the month and have been looking at auctions and realized it's probably going to run me somewhere between 30 and 50k to get a solid used tracked skid steer with an enclosed cab and hi-flow option, I would prefer a John Deere or a Caterpillar because of local dealer network within 10 miles of me, also if I understand it right if I stay with a machine under 75 hp it won't have DEF fluid which is a big plus to me and while I realize they will probably have some sort of emission BS, particulate filter etc it shouldn't be as bad as the 100 hp rigs with full blown emissions. One thing I have realized is they are expensive, you can buy a used backhoe and a small tracked digger for less than a skid steer, but they seem to be very versatile, again I appreciate all the information that you gave, it should help me make a more informed decision. Charlie.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #12  
Have you considered an excavator? I owned a CTL with mulcher for several years. It was nice but you will bounce A lot. Now have a KX 057-5 with thumb and it is very capable of doing about everything a ctl can do. Good thing is it's much easier on your body, less noise, easier access for maintenance, about 50hp with only dpf, no def, etc... Can lift over 8000 lbs. up close. Clearing trails is easier. Only one regen in 168 hrs so far.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #13  
Have you considered an excavator? I owned a CTL with mulcher for several years. It was nice but you will bounce A lot. Now have a KX 057-5 with thumb and it is very capable of doing about everything a ctl can do. Good thing is it's much easier on your body, less noise, easier access for maintenance, about 50hp with only dpf, no def, etc... Can lift over 8000 lbs. up close. Clearing trails is easier. Only one regen in 168 hrs so far.

I have mini and a skid steer and I don’t see the mini ever replacing the skid. Maybe with unlimited attachment you could but with just a digging bucket no. I do like my mini better but it’s to lacking for grading work and lifting and moving materials. Aside from the obvious poor ability to carry dirt or gravel any distance the mini can’t lift as much weight as high. My CTL will lift a 3600 pound bundle of plywood onto a semi flatbed. Even if I had forks for my mini excavator it never could do it. The other big disadvantage is the mini x is like a snail. The skid steer will move at a decent rate of speed.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #14  
Got to have a Hyd. Thumb on the excavator for best results. My ctl went 5mph wide open, exc goes 3mph. Not a big difference since the exc can do a lot of work without moving the tracks back and forth constantly.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #15  
Got to have a Hyd. Thumb on the excavator for best results. My ctl went 5mph wide open, exc goes 3mph. Not a big difference since the exc can do a lot of work without moving the tracks back and forth constantly.

I have a hydraulic thumb and quick attach bucket. I still can’t see loosing my skid steer to it. I like my mini x. It does a lot of work and it’s cheaper to run than the skid and it doesn’t tear up the ground as bad but there’s still a lot of work the CTL does better.
 
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   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #16  
I have mini and a skid steer and I don’t see the mini ever replacing the skid. Maybe with unlimited attachment you could but with just a digging bucket no. I do like my mini better but it’s to lacking for grading work and lifting and moving materials. Aside from the obvious poor ability to carry dirt or gravel any distance the mini can’t lift as much weight as high. My CTL will lift a 3600 pound bundle of plywood onto a semi flatbed. Even if I had forks for my mini excavator it never could do it. The other big disadvantage is the mini x is like a snail. The skid steer will move at a decent rate of speed.
I never said it would "replace a skid". I said it can do "about" the same thing as a CTL. Meaning an excavator can perform "some" of the same things. Working as a lineman is rough on your body, and riding in a skid steer or CTL for several hours a day will feel like you have been riding in a willys jeep in the woods all day.
Most retirees that I know would not enjoy riding in a skid steer or CTL for very long, especially in the woods.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #17  
Get a tracked machine with high flow. Stay under 100 hp to avoid def. Don't waste money on a mulcher. Just get the rotary cutter, grapple, bucket, forks, hay spear. We have two with mulcher also but hardly ever use. Both machines and grapples are in South Louisiana as I type. Cleaning up after storm. Last time I was in lake Charles. Before that, Florida. Plus we clear land often. I have two wheeled ones too. Get track high flow.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #18  
Get a tracked machine with high flow. Stay under 100 hp to avoid def. Don't waste money on a mulcher. Just get the rotary cutter, grapple, bucket, forks, hay spear. We have two with mulcher also but hardly ever use. Both machines and grapples are in South Louisiana as I type. Cleaning up after storm. Last time I was in lake Charles. Before that, Florida. Plus we clear land often. I have two wheeled ones too. Get track high flow.

It’s 75 hp for no def not 100. And unless you plan on getting a mower and paying the money for a high flow mower there’s no need for it.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer #19  
It’s 75 hp for no def not 100. And unless you plan on getting a mower and paying the money for a high flow mower there’s no need for it.
I just called cat about a used one to clean chicken houses. They said 100, but I was wanting a used machine. Which, he does too. They ain't got that DEF quite figured out yet. So I will stay away. Every diesel truck I know of is deleted. We bought a F550 crew 4x4 flat bed. Then spent 7k getting it to where we can use it proper.
 
   / Questions about purchasing a skid steer
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Get a tracked machine with high flow. Stay under 100 hp to avoid def. Don't waste money on a mulcher. Just get the rotary cutter, grapple, bucket, forks, hay spear. We have two with mulcher also but hardly ever use. Both machines and grapples are in South Louisiana as I type. Cleaning up after storm. Last time I was in lake Charles. Before that, Florida. Plus we clear land often. I have two wheeled ones too. Get track high flow.
If you don't mind me asking, which brand of rotary cutter do you have?
 

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