Quick Attach Conversion Kit.... Need a little help

[trktrman]

We are sold out of the boxed in version of the quick attach kit and we will have more in about 6 weeks.

I'm curious, are you fabricating these yourself from raw steel or waiting on imported product?

 

[Jnasystems]

Well, I got one (not one of the $100 kits to review ) in the mail today. It is exactly what I expected, but I have one question and one suggestion. The question is how is the stud supposed to go on the lever? I put it in the way I think it is supposed to go, with the long threaded end in the hole in the plate with a nut to tighten it down to prevent movement, but then no matter how tight I make everything, I get very little spring tension to control the lever arm. I would like more flexibility for adjustment there. In the assembled one I put it together so that it compressed the spring, but now it isn't tight enough to stay with repeated open and close movements. Am I wrong with either approach? How is it supposed to be assembled?

The thing I think could be changed is the actual plate itself. There is no place to weld the cross bar to it. It requires that part to be behind the mechanism. That may not be a huge deal to everyone, but it is an inefficient design as it adds two inches to the thickness of the adapter. It almost has room by the round sleeve that guides the pin, but there is a grease zerk there that will be in the way. I guess a piece of C channel could go there, but it would be nice to be able to use a square tube there instead. It is also a little thin for my use (looks like 3/16", but I didn't measure). I plan on using 1/2" plate. I am going to cut the plate off and weld the sleeve and the post onto my own plate. It would be better for me to have those not welded to this plate, but instead include a template to make welding it to my own plate.

I am not ready to start the build yet, but when I do, I will start a thread in the build it yourself section. Thanks for making this available, I think it is a great value overall and am very excited to start this build.

 

[chopped]

be sure to add a link to your new build thread here so we can follow it ....thanks

 

[TitanSkidsteer]

We make these in Memphis, TN.

I'm curious, are you fabricating these yourself from raw steel or waiting on imported product?

 

[jmc]

We make these in Memphis, TN.

Good decision.

 

[TitanSkidsteer]

The stud will thread in until it bottoms out. The longer thread portion should be through the spring with the two nuts on top. See the photo of the Kubota quick tach for a view of the assembled plate. On the Kubota unit the crossbar is welded to the ears.

Well, I got one (not one of the $100 kits to review ) in the mail today. It is exactly what I expected, but I have one question and one suggestion. The question is how is the stud supposed to go on the lever? I put it in the way I think it is supposed to go, with the long threaded end in the hole in the plate with a nut to tighten it down to prevent movement, but then no matter how tight I make everything, I get very little spring tension to control the lever arm. I would like more flexibility for adjustment there. In the assembled one I put it together so that it compressed the spring, but now it isn't tight enough to stay with repeated open and close movements. Am I wrong with either approach? How is it supposed to be assembled?

The thing I think could be changed is the actual plate itself. There is no place to weld the cross bar to it. It requires that part to be behind the mechanism. That may not be a huge deal to everyone, but it is an inefficient design as it adds two inches to the thickness of the adapter. It almost has room by the round sleeve that guides the pin, but there is a grease zerk there that will be in the way. I guess a piece of C channel could go there, but it would be nice to be able to use a square tube there instead. It is also a little thin for my use (looks like 3/16", but I didn't measure). I plan on using 1/2" plate. I am going to cut the plate off and weld the sleeve and the post onto my own plate. It would be better for me to have those not welded to this plate, but instead include a template to make welding it to my own plate.

I am not ready to start the build yet, but when I do, I will start a thread in the build it yourself section. Thanks for making this available, I think it is a great value overall and am very excited to start this build.

 

[Zebrafive]

Does TitanSkidsteer tell you how far to space the SSQA apart and how high they should be from the ground when you fab them to your loader?
As in any instructions?
If you get a chance measure the plate thichness, the one you say looks to be 3/16"

 

[Xfaxman]

--- I put it in the way I think it is supposed to go, with the long threaded end in the hole in the plate with a nut to tighten it down to prevent movement, but then no matter how tight I make everything, I get very little spring tension to control the lever arm. I would like more flexibility for adjustment there. In the assembled one I put it together so that it compressed the spring, but now it isn't tight enough to stay with repeated open and close movements.

You won't get spring tension (compression) until the latching pin hits the attachment plate. If you can't latch it, you can file the slot on the attachment plate so that the latching pin goes down farther.

 

[Jnasystems]

The stud will thread in until it bottoms out. The longer thread portion should be through the spring with the two nuts on top. See the photo of the Kubota quick tach for a view of the assembled plate. On the Kubota unit the crossbar is welded to the ears.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=302896"/>

Ok, that is how I set it up the second time, but it didn't seem to tighten down like I expected. Seemed like it could loosen up on its own, but I will tighten it up more and maybe put some lock tight on it. Thanks for the answer.

I did see the bar going across in your pictures, but if the hole for the grease zerk were 90 degrees to the rear, I could use a square tube there and bring the loader ears closer to the bucket.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Does the price for the fully-boxed version also include a plate for the bucket?