Quick Attach Conversion Kit.... Need a little help

[Zebrafive]

The latch plates on the Boxed assembly are 1/4" thick The gussets and boxes are 5/16". The tube wall is 1/4". It has a sturdy, solid feel.

The top (or back side plates) are 22" tall and 7" wide. (These will be wider when we get this item into full production)

The boxed in assembly weight is 137 lbs. An OEM Kubota quick tach is 106 lbs.

We have a few of the boxed in quick tach assemblies here: Quick Tach Conversion Assembly | Acessories and other attachments | palletforks.com

And just the latch plates here: Quick Tach Conversion kit | Acessories and other attachments | palletforks.com

How much wider will the rear mount plates be when in full production?
What will the overall width of the boxed unit be? (with the wider rear plates)
Will it be available in John Deere Green, instead of Kubota orange?

 

[TitanSkidsteer]

Am I correct in understanding that this will be "plug n' play"? In other words, pull the pins from a (for example Kubota LA403) pinned bucket and then pin this onto the FEL?

Hi RFB,

It is not "plug and play". Both of these versions are for the user that can weld or has access to someone who can. The tabs will have to be cut from your bucket and welded onto one of these units.

Thanks for checking with us,
Bill

 

[jmc]

Hi RFB,

It is not "plug and play". Both of these versions are for the user that can weld or has access to someone who can. The tabs will have to be cut from your bucket and welded onto one of these units.

Thanks for checking with us,
Bill

Bill,

I think you might be onto a successful new product category here. One thing to consider is giving your customers some hints on removing those original equipment tabs from their buckets without damaging the thin sheetmetal underneath. I recall some posts by people removing them in order to mount a QA plate and they had an awful time with them. If your customers have the same problems, you'll be reading about it here.

 

[Burtonbr]

Looks good, what's the width between back plates where you would weld the mounts from your bucket ? Afraid it may be too wide for my application on a LA364 loader.

 

[yellowfin1]

I just ordered one I hope it will fit my LA481 with no issues very cool it is orange .

Quick Tach Conversion Assembly | Acessories and other attachments | palletforks.com

 

[TitanSkidsteer]

Looks good, what's the width between back plates where you would weld the mounts from your bucket ? Afraid it may be too wide for my application on a LA364 loader.

The total width is 49" and each of the plates are 7" wide and 22" tall. These plates will be wider on future editions when we run this in full production in 60-90 days.

 

[bobm6996]

Are these designed only for Kubota tractors? I have a Mahindra 2615 w/M106 loader and would love to be able to add a sqa to it and your kit and price are amazing.

 

[Guesseral]

Really great idea! I like the new version of the kit better than the first one that you had pictured because the rear plate would be much harder to fab with only the GH's themselves. After the loader arm brackets are welded on all that would be needed would be the plate for the bucket, nice!

 

[TitanSkidsteer]

Thank you everyone for your comments and suggestions. This type of feedback and advice is priceless for us. :thumbsup:

We have a few customers working on the photos so that $100 offer has been satisfied.

We are sold out of the boxed in version of the quick attach kit and we will have more in about 6 weeks. We have about 10 more sets of the quick tach plates ready to ship. For those of you who want a boxed in version and cannot wait it would be a straightforward task to use the John Deere to Skid Steer Adapter for converting a pined on loader to QT hookup. Of course welding and cutting skills will be needed for that job. You can see the Deere adapter here: John Deere style Attachments | Deere Style Quick Tach Adapter | palletforks.com

Thank you all again for the support and advice!

Have a good and safe upcoming weekend,
Bill

 

[Zebrafive]

Thank you everyone for your comments and suggestions. This type of feedback and advice is priceless for us. :thumbsup:

We have a few customers working on the photos so that $100 offer has been satisfied.

We are sold out of the boxed in version of the quick attach kit and we will have more in about 6 weeks. We have about 10 more sets of the quick tach plates ready to ship. For those of you who want a boxed in version and cannot wait it would be a straightforward task to use the John Deere to Skid Steer Adapter for converting a pined on loader to QT hookup. Of course welding and cutting skills will be needed for that job. You can see the Deere adapter here: John Deere style Attachments | Deere Style Quick Tach Adapter | palletforks.com

Thank you all again for the support and advice!

Have a good and safe upcoming weekend,
Bill

I can wait six weeks. You never answered if the boxed version could be had in John Deere green, but at least I know you have that color!

 

[trktrman]

We are sold out of the boxed in version of the quick attach kit and we will have more in about 6 weeks.

I'm curious, are you fabricating these yourself from raw steel or waiting on imported product?

 

[Jnasystems]

Well, I got one (not one of the $100 kits to review ) in the mail today. It is exactly what I expected, but I have one question and one suggestion. The question is how is the stud supposed to go on the lever? I put it in the way I think it is supposed to go, with the long threaded end in the hole in the plate with a nut to tighten it down to prevent movement, but then no matter how tight I make everything, I get very little spring tension to control the lever arm. I would like more flexibility for adjustment there. In the assembled one I put it together so that it compressed the spring, but now it isn't tight enough to stay with repeated open and close movements. Am I wrong with either approach? How is it supposed to be assembled?

The thing I think could be changed is the actual plate itself. There is no place to weld the cross bar to it. It requires that part to be behind the mechanism. That may not be a huge deal to everyone, but it is an inefficient design as it adds two inches to the thickness of the adapter. It almost has room by the round sleeve that guides the pin, but there is a grease zerk there that will be in the way. I guess a piece of C channel could go there, but it would be nice to be able to use a square tube there instead. It is also a little thin for my use (looks like 3/16", but I didn't measure). I plan on using 1/2" plate. I am going to cut the plate off and weld the sleeve and the post onto my own plate. It would be better for me to have those not welded to this plate, but instead include a template to make welding it to my own plate.

I am not ready to start the build yet, but when I do, I will start a thread in the build it yourself section. Thanks for making this available, I think it is a great value overall and am very excited to start this build.

 

[chopped]

be sure to add a link to your new build thread here so we can follow it ....thanks

 

[TitanSkidsteer]

We make these in Memphis, TN.

I'm curious, are you fabricating these yourself from raw steel or waiting on imported product?

 

[jmc]

We make these in Memphis, TN.

Good decision.

 

[TitanSkidsteer]

The stud will thread in until it bottoms out. The longer thread portion should be through the spring with the two nuts on top. See the photo of the Kubota quick tach for a view of the assembled plate. On the Kubota unit the crossbar is welded to the ears.

Well, I got one (not one of the $100 kits to review ) in the mail today. It is exactly what I expected, but I have one question and one suggestion. The question is how is the stud supposed to go on the lever? I put it in the way I think it is supposed to go, with the long threaded end in the hole in the plate with a nut to tighten it down to prevent movement, but then no matter how tight I make everything, I get very little spring tension to control the lever arm. I would like more flexibility for adjustment there. In the assembled one I put it together so that it compressed the spring, but now it isn't tight enough to stay with repeated open and close movements. Am I wrong with either approach? How is it supposed to be assembled?

The thing I think could be changed is the actual plate itself. There is no place to weld the cross bar to it. It requires that part to be behind the mechanism. That may not be a huge deal to everyone, but it is an inefficient design as it adds two inches to the thickness of the adapter. It almost has room by the round sleeve that guides the pin, but there is a grease zerk there that will be in the way. I guess a piece of C channel could go there, but it would be nice to be able to use a square tube there instead. It is also a little thin for my use (looks like 3/16", but I didn't measure). I plan on using 1/2" plate. I am going to cut the plate off and weld the sleeve and the post onto my own plate. It would be better for me to have those not welded to this plate, but instead include a template to make welding it to my own plate.

I am not ready to start the build yet, but when I do, I will start a thread in the build it yourself section. Thanks for making this available, I think it is a great value overall and am very excited to start this build.

 

[Zebrafive]

Does TitanSkidsteer tell you how far to space the SSQA apart and how high they should be from the ground when you fab them to your loader?
As in any instructions?
If you get a chance measure the plate thichness, the one you say looks to be 3/16"

 

[Xfaxman]

--- I put it in the way I think it is supposed to go, with the long threaded end in the hole in the plate with a nut to tighten it down to prevent movement, but then no matter how tight I make everything, I get very little spring tension to control the lever arm. I would like more flexibility for adjustment there. In the assembled one I put it together so that it compressed the spring, but now it isn't tight enough to stay with repeated open and close movements.

You won't get spring tension (compression) until the latching pin hits the attachment plate. If you can't latch it, you can file the slot on the attachment plate so that the latching pin goes down farther.

 

[Jnasystems]

The stud will thread in until it bottoms out. The longer thread portion should be through the spring with the two nuts on top. See the photo of the Kubota quick tach for a view of the assembled plate. On the Kubota unit the crossbar is welded to the ears.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=302896"/>

Ok, that is how I set it up the second time, but it didn't seem to tighten down like I expected. Seemed like it could loosen up on its own, but I will tighten it up more and maybe put some lock tight on it. Thanks for the answer.

I did see the bar going across in your pictures, but if the hole for the grease zerk were 90 degrees to the rear, I could use a square tube there and bring the loader ears closer to the bucket.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Does the price for the fully-boxed version also include a plate for the bucket?