spokane 1
Silver Member
this is where shaft 4 couples to in the hst.
Last edited:
R3644, Broke the PTO. Looking for repair guidance.
- Thread starter Benny Blue
- Start date
- Views: 19820
this is where shaft 4 couples to in the hst.
spokane 1
Silver Member
see if you can remove the pan and fenders married to lessen the work. it might be heavy so get help or have a crane.
yes on 11....I see i erred in saying it tips and comes out the top. it has a internal web removing any thought of tipping. it obviously slips out the back.
did gear 9 drop when you yanked the pto? so that appears to be free floating......now?
so define for me..shaft 4 and gear 9 run together?
I see shaft 4 couples with another shaft 11 in the hst on page 41... This couplet is going to have to be handheld during removal of shaft 4 otherwise it will slip into the lower case.
sometimes mechanics magnets cant pick those up so be careful..
I also noted the mid pto shaft is a *****........(((if anything is wrong there)) you must split the rear pumpkin off.
yes on 11....I see i erred in saying it tips and comes out the top. it has a internal web removing any thought of tipping. it obviously slips out the back.
did gear 9 drop when you yanked the pto? so that appears to be free floating......now?
so define for me..shaft 4 and gear 9 run together?
I see shaft 4 couples with another shaft 11 in the hst on page 41... This couplet is going to have to be handheld during removal of shaft 4 otherwise it will slip into the lower case.
sometimes mechanics magnets cant pick those up so be careful..
I also noted the mid pto shaft is a *****........(((if anything is wrong there)) you must split the rear pumpkin off.
OP
Benny Blue
Bronze Member
After removing the fuel tank I saw that there were only 3 more bolts holding on the left fender, so just to make access easier it was simple to take it off on its own which helped access the park brake cable since the park brake handle stays attached to the "pan" i had to disconnect the cable before lifting the pan off. I'm going to leave the right fender on if i can just because it has the FEL controls mounted on it and that is just one more thing to disconnect....
So now i also have one fender and the pan off. Things are really starting to open up!
Next step i see is removing the 4 rigid hydraulic lines that cross over the top of the housing that comes off. But before i go there... everything below the pan has a pretty good layer of dirty oil so i'm going to clean that up really good since i'm getting that much closer to cracking this thing open and i obviously don't want any dirt around when i do. Some stiff brushes and the shopvac will have to do since i don't have an air compressor (note to self: get an air compressor).
You wrote... "did gear 9 drop when you yanked the pto? so that appears to be free floating......now?"
Correct. You can see it, in the pics back a few posts, from the back of the tractor where i pulled out the PTO #11. I fished it out with a magnet and was able to reach in and turn it a bit, where i saw some of the teeth were damaged.
You wrote... "so define for me..shaft 4 and gear 9 run together?"
It appears that way.
You wrote... "I see shaft 4 couples with another shaft 11 in the hst on page 41... This couplet is going to have to be handheld during removal of shaft 4 otherwise it will slip into the lower case."
By "hst" do you mean hydrostat transmission? If so, i do not have that option. Regardless what "couplet" are you referring to? A particular part?
So now i also have one fender and the pan off. Things are really starting to open up!
Next step i see is removing the 4 rigid hydraulic lines that cross over the top of the housing that comes off. But before i go there... everything below the pan has a pretty good layer of dirty oil so i'm going to clean that up really good since i'm getting that much closer to cracking this thing open and i obviously don't want any dirt around when i do. Some stiff brushes and the shopvac will have to do since i don't have an air compressor (note to self: get an air compressor).
You wrote... "did gear 9 drop when you yanked the pto? so that appears to be free floating......now?"
Correct. You can see it, in the pics back a few posts, from the back of the tractor where i pulled out the PTO #11. I fished it out with a magnet and was able to reach in and turn it a bit, where i saw some of the teeth were damaged.
You wrote... "so define for me..shaft 4 and gear 9 run together?"
It appears that way.
You wrote... "I see shaft 4 couples with another shaft 11 in the hst on page 41... This couplet is going to have to be handheld during removal of shaft 4 otherwise it will slip into the lower case."
By "hst" do you mean hydrostat transmission? If so, i do not have that option. Regardless what "couplet" are you referring to? A particular part?
spokane 1
Silver Member
yes to all Benny......the couplet is far ahead of you....... if your still cleaning the top pan. it marries the power from shaft 11hst to pto shaft 4 then to pto gear 9????? I assume.
theres so much going on in the prints I get confused of power flow.
carry on...........get an air compressor.....or reverse a shopvac for minimal *******. the shop vac can help remove the dirt off the pan too.
drain the rear oil too and remove it from the dirty area you may be able to reuse it if you strain it.
theres so much going on in the prints I get confused of power flow.
carry on...........get an air compressor.....or reverse a shopvac for minimal *******. the shop vac can help remove the dirt off the pan too.
drain the rear oil too and remove it from the dirty area you may be able to reuse it if you strain it.
spokane 1
Silver Member
Once you have the pan off drained the oil and pulled the lid give me another digital shot of shaft 4. At this point you may want to survey any and all damage...try to pry out the rubber plug on shaft 4 and give me a diggy of that too. (figure out how to roll all gears affected to survey damage.)
its best to leave it together and order your parts at this point. and replace the PTO lid and drink Molson gold for 3 months until your parts arrive ( I don't know if that rubber plug is considered sacrificial you may end up destroying it but if it pops out unharmed you may luck out )
its best to leave it together and order your parts at this point. and replace the PTO lid and drink Molson gold for 3 months until your parts arrive ( I don't know if that rubber plug is considered sacrificial you may end up destroying it but if it pops out unharmed you may luck out )
OP
Benny Blue
Bronze Member
So I looked into this..... cost is around $800 to magna flux a $100 part. Not gonna happen! What would you expect this to cost?
spokane 1
Silver Member
oh boy.....you met a grubby who wants retirement off one piece. (hes looking at you as vulture prey since you don't know what it was).
at a local shop here I would expect a magna flux to run about 5 to 10 bucks on a part that small.......
they do this on cast iron heads in the machine shop all day long.
Me personally Its so easy to pull that part i would just pull out reader glasses 3.0 and go to town on it (dip it in diesel blow dry the excess) and look for flaws seeping crack trails of diesel seepage)
if the part fails later just yank it out,,,,, toss it and buy another one. providing gear 9 is easy to slide back up and re-pin the shaft thru it. (from what I saw in the photos gear 9 is a cake walk to bring back up.)
well if your out in the woods and not satisfied with diesel... and not many machine shops handy,,,,, just order a can of this.....CRC probably $15 Canadian??? you don't need the white developer can just wipe off the excess after 10 minutes and pull out the magnifier lens from grandma or 3.0 readers. check for red trails....
Crc Weld Check Penetrant, 10.5 oz 03106 | Zoro.com
so did you open the top yet?
OP
Benny Blue
Bronze Member
To be fair, i did only call one place in the whole city, so i'm sure the prices would vary quite a bit if i called around. The guy was nice enough to suggest that i pick up something like you suggested... a two-liquid product that would make cracks show up.
No i haven't opened the top yet. I'm going at this "weekend warrior" style.
I'm just about to drain out all the oil, then pop off the top.
No i haven't opened the top yet. I'm going at this "weekend warrior" style.
I'm just about to drain out all the oil, then pop off the top.
OP
Benny Blue
Bronze Member
Hey, would the rubber caps (#6) be better pried off from the outside or popped out from the inside? I'd love to hear some advice on this before start picking at them.
spokane 1
Silver Member
ha Benny If you check the print you would see you have a bearing in the way of removal from the cap from the inside.
Me personally I would take a nice sharp ice pick slide between the metal at top and rubber cork cap and pry it down then slide in a nice blunted rounded flat blade screwdriver...or multiple flat blades and it should soup bowl out of the hole.
try not to puncture the rubber it might be ship lapped or have a stair step that you cannot currently see thats why I use rounded edged flat blade screwdrivers mostly.
Ive got to run away for the weekend so ill catch up with you Sunday ok?