R4047 Shuttle shift runs but won’t move!

[Idfontenot]

Anyone else had this issue? Loaders works, 3 point works, PTO works but I was doing next to nothing with it and it just stopped rolling. Doesn’t matter what gear the trans or the t case is in….just nothing. Can push it like it’s in neutral no matter in forward, reverse or neutral. Can shift shuttle without pressing the clutch and no grinding, still won’t move. I have a whopping 247 hours on it. Did my clutch just let go?

Thanks,

Dean

 

[K5lwq]

Did it stop all at once or have you noticed it slowing in higher gears?

Also, did you stop then it would not go again or were you in gear moving and it suddenly stopped?

 

[Idfontenot]

Seem to have been normal/normal up until it stopped. I had been bush hogging and finished up so I could help move some bags of sand. Put 6 or 7 in the bucket, drove around the house and dumped it. Put it in reverse and the clutch released as normal then it just kind of glided to a stop. No noises, no drama.

 

[ruffdog]

Do you have free-play at the top of the clutch pedal?

 

[K5lwq]

Clutches normally don’t fail like that. It normally will start slipping in higher gears first. Sometimes an adjustment will help then but usually it is too late by then.

Did you try it with FWD engaged?

 

[Idfontenot]

Got some free play at the top, tried it in every configuration there is. I’m befuddled.

 

[ptsg]

Can you feel any resistance on the Shuttle lever? Or is it moving freely like it isn't connected to anything? I would check the linkages first.

 

[newbury]

Another vote for checking the linkages. My M4700 has "bound up" twice in the linkages during it's 10 years of very light usage.

 

[Idfontenot]

The shuttle shift feels the same. Has the same notches for F/N/R as always.

 

[D&D]

The shuttle shift feels the same. Has the same notches for F/N/R as always.

That doesn’t mean the lower parts are all connected. From the diagram it has some roll pins that could have broken.

Welcome!! LSMtron Web Parts Catalog

 

[Avenger]

I suspect it's a linkage issue as others have stated. The clutch will burn up, especially if engaging the pedal at high RPM, that's really rough on the clutch (this is why we have a gas pedal) But even then, it will be noticeable over time, the clutch will slip more and more, and you will likely notice more and more free play in the pedal.

If a tractor is working and moving like normal, and suddenly stops without a bang, clank, jerk, or explosion... and there is no massive amount of fluid flowing from under the tractor, the hydraulics work and the engine is still operating normally, then it's probably a linkage problem. Here is what likely happened: You were out working and a pin or bolt came loose. As you continue to work, with vibrations, jostles, and movement of the controls, that pin, nut, or bolt kept getting more and more lose, but still working. You put it into reverse and let out the clutch, the linkage probably let go right then! The transmission may not have been all the way engaged and you rolled to a stop.

There is a chance that it is something a bit more serious, but that is doubtful. I'm thinking either the shift fork broke, or the forward/reverse shaft broke. But again, thats doubtful.

 

[Bobrown14]

Its lkely the gear shift lever. Take your dash cover off and check your gear shift linkage under the dash.

The gear shift for forward/neutral/reverse on the left side of your console has a gear shift lever. There's a tube inside another tube with a sort of cotter pin but its actually an expansion pin that ties the upper shift lever to your lower shift lever that goes into your transmsission.

That pin likely fell out and you cant put your tractor into gear (forward or reverse) so your just stuck there everything works as it should just not able to change into forward or reverse gear.

I had it happen to me.... thought I blew up my tranny but found the pin laying on the floor of the tractor under the fuse box.

There's a hole in the gear shift lever shaft where the pin should be. Can sub a cotter pin in there for the expansion key/pin or put the original back in and duct tape it so it cant slide out again.

 

[Cycledude]

Sounds like it should be something pretty cheap and easy to fix once you figure out exactly what has gone wrong.