Rake Design Help Needed....
- Thread starter Maine_Polack
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Maine_Polack
Gold Member
I think I will mount it on the rear blade. I agree with both of you about bolting vs. pinning it on.
I need the rake now, however I can see that this is one of those projects that will take time. Haven't even begun to take the old stuff apart yet. Lots of holes to drill... So, unless it rains a lot, It will be an ongoing thing that will be accomplished in bits and pieces, as time allows.
I do appreciate your ideas.
Al
I need the rake now, however I can see that this is one of those projects that will take time. Haven't even begun to take the old stuff apart yet. Lots of holes to drill... So, unless it rains a lot, It will be an ongoing thing that will be accomplished in bits and pieces, as time allows.
I do appreciate your ideas.
Al
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Maine_Polack
Gold Member
OP
Maine_Polack
Gold Member
OP
Maine_Polack
Gold Member
Well....after 10 minutes of gentle & slow usage this is what it looked like. It was to put it mildly a total bust.
I did rake a little brush. 50% of the time it would not dump off. Had to get off the tractor , and pull brush off. I could live with that.
Going forward 2 teeth broke in the middle, not at the weld. Tried back dragging it for about 2 seconds. The result was 3 loud "cracks" . These three teeth broke off at the welds. A couple of other teeth just bent sideways.
These teeth still seemed to have the "spring" in them. But, they were made to be used with a horse or two, and I used 65.
So back to the thinkin' about it. Any thoughts/ideas?
Thanks, Al
I did rake a little brush. 50% of the time it would not dump off. Had to get off the tractor
, and pull brush off. I could live with that.Going forward 2 teeth broke in the middle, not at the weld. Tried back dragging it for about 2 seconds. The result was 3 loud "cracks"
. These three teeth broke off at the welds. A couple of other teeth just bent sideways.These teeth still seemed to have the "spring" in them. But, they were made to be used with a horse or two, and I used 65.
So back to the thinkin' about it. Any thoughts/ideas?
Thanks, Al
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Egon
Epic Contributor
Perhaps continue with the idea but put the rake on the back of the tractor and add gauge wheels if you wish.
A rake for my little tractor.
A rake for my little tractor.
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OP
Maine_Polack
Gold Member
I had thought of that...but the fact that the teeth broke so easily, is making me think twice. The blade that was in the original plan weight in about 1000#, which would be on top of the teeth. And, I'm hesitant about rebuilding to use on the rear by itself, because they seem so fragile.
Trying to think of something else to use. I do have a bunch of RR spikes, but they are too short, me thinks.
Herringchocker - any chance of a closed pic of your rig? Have you had any problem with the teeth breaking?
I'm thinking more of the lines of a root rake now. Quite expensive, so I enjoy home building. Going to have to find something to use as teeth. If I buy the material new, I might as well just buy the rig itself, for the price diff.
Steel is really up there.
Trying to think of something else to use. I do have a bunch of RR spikes, but they are too short, me thinks.
Herringchocker - any chance of a closed pic of your rig? Have you had any problem with the teeth breaking?
I'm thinking more of the lines of a root rake now. Quite expensive, so I enjoy home building. Going to have to find something to use as teeth. If I buy the material new, I might as well just buy the rig itself, for the price diff.
Steel is really up there.
schmism
Super Member
Looks to me like you got the angle of the "teeth" all wrong.
I was going off existing rake desings which have the teeth or fingers almost vertical when they meet the ground. This way only force they see is horzontal, which is why there is the big curve of steel in them. They bend (spring steel) allows the finger to give horzontally then go back to its org vertical postion.
(think about the fingers on a comb)
so rotate 90deg and remount see how it works... (a sorry hack job below)
I was going off existing rake desings which have the teeth or fingers almost vertical when they meet the ground. This way only force they see is horzontal, which is why there is the big curve of steel in them. They bend (spring steel) allows the finger to give horzontally then go back to its org vertical postion.
(think about the fingers on a comb)
so rotate 90deg and remount see how it works... (a sorry hack job below)
Agree with schmism on the too much angle.
Look at your rake teeth on the pull type springtooth and you will see the max angle they can handle. Make your's fit that and I doubt they will break.
My guess is those teeth are some kind of tempered to retain their spring, so welding on them messes that up. If you can use the clamps like the pull type, the teeth will last longer. Of course, if you have plenty, weld away and just replace as necessary.
Hope this helps.
ron
Look at your rake teeth on the pull type springtooth and you will see the max angle they can handle. Make your's fit that and I doubt they will break.
My guess is those teeth are some kind of tempered to retain their spring, so welding on them messes that up. If you can use the clamps like the pull type, the teeth will last longer. Of course, if you have plenty, weld away and just replace as necessary.
Hope this helps.
ron
OP
Maine_Polack
Gold Member
Well I thought that I was at about the right angle, at times anyway. One of the reasons for the front mount was that I thought being able to change the angle easily would be a plus.
You have turned me on to rechecking angle of the dangle.l
I know that welding teeth on is not the best way. Just thought I would try it, and see what happens. I did and I saw.
Pic shows a small pole that looked like it was "weaved" in between the teeth.
Thanks, Al
You have turned me on to rechecking angle of the dangle.l
I know that welding teeth on is not the best way. Just thought I would try it, and see what happens. I did and I saw.
Pic shows a small pole that looked like it was "weaved" in between the teeth.
Thanks, Al
