Rayco C140 issue

[ALittleDirtWontHurt]

Sounds like at least one of the pressure switches is faulty. They need a current through them to make the light go out. Have you disconnected all the wires off the switches at the same time, jumped them and worked the machine? I have a electrical systematic I can email you if required.

I bypassed the seatbelt switch altogether and verified the seat pressure switch and lap bar are ok. I was hopeful a jumper on the connector off of the top of the pump would do it but no luck. The timing seems weird to me that it will start to work again after sitting for a while. My Terex did almost exactly the same thing last year and they ended up having to replace the entire ecu (thankfully under warranty at the time).

 

[ALittleDirtWontHurt]

Another day, same result. But now it is definitely a pattern. It runs for a bit (hour or so), quits, and won't unlock until cooled down well later (or the next day). When it first happens the seatbelt light will blink and I can hear a corresponding 'click' up under the seat (where the valve block is). My thinking is maybe is solenoid related??? Seems to me once it gets up to full operating temperature and runs for a bit, maybe the solenoid is failing once hot??? I talked to the guys at Rayco and they say that a solenoid could be responsible. They also suggested the possibility of the ECU being bad.

 

[cat 297c]

Another day, same result. But now it is definitely a pattern. It runs for a bit (hour or so), quits, and won't unlock until cooled down well later (or the next day). When it first happens the seatbelt light will blink and I can hear a corresponding 'click' up under the seat (where the valve block is). My thinking is maybe is solenoid related??? Seems to me once it gets up to full operating temperature and runs for a bit, maybe the solenoid is failing once hot??? I talked to the guys at Rayco and they say that a solenoid could be responsible. They also suggested the possibility of the ECU
being bad.

I had the same problem with my 140 it was the ecu

 

[ALittleDirtWontHurt]

I had the same problem with my 140 it was the ecu

if that's the culprit at least it's a 5 minute swap

 

[tonyoz]

if that's the culprit at least it's a 5 minute swap

And if you can find a good computer tech it can be repaired and kept as a spare.

 

[APSmulching]

I was having a some electrical problems with my 140. It was shutting down and wouldn't always restart. If I let it sit for an hour or so it would restart and run fine for a bit and happen again. Before that it was giving me different fault codes that checked out ok. The injector pump was also missing and I'd get a code 74 when it shut down. I found out that on the back of the engine ECM there are two metal pads that ground to the bracket. I cleaned up that surface and added some di-electric grease it got a lot better. Then I put a c clamp to clamp the bracket to the metal pad on the ECM and it seemed to cure my problems. I'm not sure why this happened, and why this ground was not making contact anymore. The only problem I'm still having now is I get a code 68 (de-rate fuel) and the engine won't make good power. This usually happens a few times in a day on average. I'd love to figure out these gremlins. I really like the 140's but they are challenging sometimes.

 

[tonyoz]

ALittleDirtWontHurt, When the hydraulics cut out, what does the engine do? Maintain RPM's, Go to idle or stop.

APSmulching, I was talking to the local JD service manager the other day and he recommended taking out the sensor in the primary fuel filter and cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner. Make sure you disconnect it wires that the plug first. If that does not work then replace the sensor. Hope this helps

 

[ALittleDirtWontHurt]

ALittleDirtWontHurt, When the hydraulics cut out, what does the engine do? Maintain RPM's, Go to idle or stop.

APSmulching, I was talking to the local JD service manager the other day and he recommended taking out the sensor in the primary fuel filter and cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner. Make sure you disconnect it wires that the plug first. If that does not work then replace the sensor. Hope this helps

I'll have to check that fuel filter sensor. Here's what I've got.....when I bought it I noticed that they had bypassed the water separator and run a line going directly into the primer and into another water separator (in place of where the fuel filter is supposed to be. I was assuming that was a separate issue (and something that needs to be corrected right away!), but now I'll have to look a little closer into it. If already running, the engine will maintain RPMs if they hydraulics cut out with the seatbelt light and otherwise seems to run fine. I did notice however, that the machine will stall out very easily and cut everything immediately (including engine) if it sucks in a bundle of limbs too fast. I don't know if that's normal for this machine or not. On any of my other units that is definitely not the case.

 

[ALittleDirtWontHurt]

Also, right before I took delivery of the machine they welded the frame where the cab mount meets at the top which was creating a fuel leak. Leak is taken care of, but it sure didn't look like the ECU wire bundles were disconnected prior to the weld.

I'm not getting any codes whatsoever on the display and the engine seems to run well.

 

[APSmulching]

ALittleDirtWontHurt, When the hydraulics cut out, what does the engine do? Maintain RPM's, Go to idle or stop. APSmulching, I was talking to the local JD service manager the other day and he recommended taking out the sensor in the primary fuel filter and cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner. Make sure you disconnect it wires that the plug first. If that does not work then replace the sensor. Hope this helps

Thanks Tony, I'll try that