Re-bar Wrapped around axle

North Country · Oct 15, 2011

Short Game said:
Hard to imagine a circular saw getting into the tines deep enough to reach a tightly wound rebar.

Good point. Maybe parts of it are exposed enough to make this easy - let's hope so!

bigtiller · Oct 15, 2011

I have found some re-bar just like you. How ever you end up cutting it, the first cut will be easy. The second and third cuts will be a little more challenging because the rod will be moving and vibrating while being cut. A couple of clamps may come in handy. I was lucky enough to be just a couple miles from home when I did it so I was able to come home and use my torch.

JB4310 · Oct 15, 2011

Just use a course blade with the least amount of teeth per inch for metal.
The fine blades are for lighter metals.

With the right blade, I'd say recipro saw would beat the 4.5 inch wheel saw, or at least be almost as fast. And reach in tight spots the wheel might not
Just cost more as the good blades cost more than the cheap wheels.

That said, I've been using wheel saws more and more lately. I've got grinders from 4" thru 9" and a 12" demo saw, got metal cutting wheels for all of them.
I've been getting the wheels from HF lately, the real thin ones, they cut great and last as long as brand name ones.

Just don't cut the shaft, even a little could create a weak point.

JB

jenkinsph · Oct 15, 2011

Good suggestions with a cutting torch, sawsall and small angle grinder as all of these will cut the rebar.

You don't say what size rebar is wound up on the tiller shaft but if it is 1/2" or #5 or larger you should backoff on your slip clutch. Sounds like the clutch should have slipped before all of this was wrapped up tightly.

radioman · Oct 15, 2011

either sawall or grinder. I used concrete abrasive disc before on rebar. If you gonna do it right, get a grinder with disc made for metal. If you never used a grinder before, go with the fat abrasive disc, not the thin cutting one. Its much safer to hold and work with for a novice.

dmay · Oct 15, 2011

This has happened to me multiple times when using my 647 tiller. I just used a crowbar to bend the rebar back until I got it into a U shape. Then just pull it out off the axle. Rebar bends easy enough.

whiskywizard · Oct 15, 2011

I wrapped an old rotting groundhog around a rototiller. The dog had buried it; I found it. Not physically hard to cut, except for the tears in my eyes and the occasional gag. :licking:

k0ua · Oct 15, 2011

whiskywizard said:
I wrapped an old rotting groundhog around a rototiller. The dog had buried it; I found it. Not physically hard to cut, except for the tears in my eyes and the occasional gag. :licking:

Egads!

PUKE!.. YUK

James K0UA

Tractor Seabee · Oct 15, 2011

I have atorch so that is my first solution. Try this one on; we have anumber of large hawthorne tree stumps (3' dia). The roots never die, just keep sending up shoots. The new stuff is easy, just pull out. The roots can be oup to 4" diamete and down, they reach out 30-50 feet bin all directions about 6-12" below grade. I have grabbed the large end with a chain choked on and pulled ot 30 footers with teh drawbar. When tilling my garden spot for the first time (three of those stumps around it, I wrapped one around the axel till it would hold no more. The big end was 2' dia and that wood is very fiberous and tough, does not chip it tears. Took me an hour down in the damp sawing, pulling, turning the axel with a bar, and swearing a lot before I got them all out. Had to cut between each tine with 10 wraps or more. It kept winding until it tripped the slip clutch. Your rebar would take me 10 minutes or less if close to the shop which my garden plot is. Cutting, 1/2 minute the rest travel and set up/shutdown.

Ron