ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks!

[moose13]

Thanks for the new replies!
I know there is little to no savings here, but i will be honest with ya, i kicked a few tires on the big box store models and was not impressed at all. I am sure they would work for years to come and do the job. But, i prefer to build my own. I enjoy doing the work and already have axle, tires, I beam, jack and hitch. + any misc steel i would need. More "older" welding rod than i could ever burn. I do need to fabricate a tank but already have the steel and a plan. I am a bigger guy, 6'5 325 and many of the store bought ones are just too short. Like i said i enjoy the work and am out of projects, so why not.

I agree on the wedge design Oliver, Thanks!

 

[Deerblazer]

I chose to build my own too, that way I could filter out all the things I didn't like about store bought splitters.

You'll enjoy your creation much more than a store bought.

Mostly everything (steel that is) was scavenged from a fab shop's dumpster.

The log lift is being fabbed now, it will have a 2" X 8" cyl.

The top of my I beam is 30" off the ground so I don't have to hunch over anymore.

I went with a 5" X 30" cyl
16 gpm 2 stage pump
10 hp elec start Wisconson from an old Bolens
I ran a belt driven jackshaft under the splitter over to the pump, mostly for weight distribution between the tank and motor.

Here's a pic of my wedge design. Since this pic it's been sharpened to 70 deg included angle. This thing will cross cut 6" maple.
There's no crotch or notty piece it won't go through easily.

 

[Deerblazer]

Here's the wedge welded and sharpened.

The second pic is how I ran the belts to the jackshaft and the jackshaft over to the pump.

I added a belt tensioner for cold start days. I wanted that feature in case all I had was a pull start engine. Not necessary with the elec start but it's cool and gets lots of remarks.

 

[wdchyd]

Just a tip (if you didn't think of it)....only tack weld your axle in place till all is mounted so you can tweek it for just the right balance when lugging around......seen a few guys that made them too tongue heavy but had already welded everything solid.......:thumbsup:

 

[moose13]

Good lookin' splitter Deerblazer!
I was most interested in how you did the frame between the axles.
I might just use your idea!:thumbsup:

 

[Scooby074]

Anybody run a longer cylinder, like a 4x32 or 36?

Im building a splitter and am considering going with one. Likely a 36. Im going to be running approx 25-28 GPM so cycle times will be pretty quick.

I figure ill be able to split 2 16" rounds at once thereby saving time.

 

[moose13]

Anybody run a longer cylinder, like a 4x32 or 36?

Im building a splitter and am considering going with one. Likely a 36. Im going to be running approx 25-28 GPM so cycle times will be pretty quick.

I figure ill be able to split 2 16" rounds at once thereby saving time.

hmm interesting, i rarely split more than 12" into the round before it is good and split, so i would have to split entirely through the first and into the second. At least for me it would not save time. May work for you though.

 

[Massey_lover]

Anybody run a longer cylinder, like a 4x32 or 36?

Im building a splitter and am considering going with one. Likely a 36. Im going to be running approx 25-28 GPM so cycle times will be pretty quick.

I figure ill be able to split 2 16" rounds at once thereby saving time.

If the blocks are small enough to where I would consider splitting two at once to save time, either I don't consider them big enough to split or I stack two of 'em vertically so the wedge hits both of them at the same time.

 

[Scooby074]

hmm interesting, i rarely split more than 12" into the round before it is good and split, so i would have to split entirely through the first and into the second. At least for me it would not save time. May work for you though.

Yeah most will crack at around the ~12 inches. I typically burn 16" pieces. Running the stick completely thru the wedge might reduce the "stringgy" wood that holds the pieces together. I intend on running a narrow 4 way knife wedge similar to the splitfires and the euro processors. Im also going to run the pusher as close as possible to the wedge, also to try and cut down on strings and having to place a block behind the piece being split so i can force it thru when it runs out of stroke before cracking. My current splitter stops about 3-4" ? from the wedge.

I was thinking that a long cyl might speed things up by reducing wasted time on the return. A single extension with a 4 way would make 8 pieces. Might not be a time savings though?

I did notice that most of the "premium" brands offer longer cylinders as options on their better machines, some up to 48". There got to be a reason?

I know that some with the wood doctor boilers run a longer stick, but it has me thinking.

Anybody do a longer split, like the europeans, then cut the splits after they dry? Like a 3' or 4'. Then cut up just before burning. Most times it looks like they use a small buzz saw? I know its another piece of equipment, but it might reduce a bit of handling when stacking the small 16" splits as you'd only have to handle "half" as much. Plus it would allow you to stack more in a given footprint as you wouldnt need to leave an isle between rows (well not as many isles). Just curious why we dont see this here?

 

[Deerblazer]

I welded the spindles right to the end of the tube.

I'll get some better pics posted tonight for ya'll to gander at.