ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks!

   / ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #21  
Anybody run a longer cylinder, like a 4x32 or 36?

Im building a splitter and am considering going with one. Likely a 36. Im going to be running approx 25-28 GPM so cycle times will be pretty quick.

I figure ill be able to split 2 16" rounds at once thereby saving time.

I wouldnt consider it.

First, it really wouldnt save any time. If the cylinder has to extend 32" to split both, and 32" to retract, that is 64" total, and you still have the time it takes to put 2 peices on there. If you go with a smaller length cylinder, and split them one at a time, 16" out and 16" back for each peice is STILL 64" total travel.

So aside from being NO time savings, there is a huge saftey factor. UNLESS you can cut peices of wood that are PERFECTALLY straight and PERFECTALLY square cuts, you run a huge risk of one of the peices flying out the side:confused2:
 
   / ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #22  
I wouldnt consider it.

First, it really wouldnt save any time. If the cylinder has to extend 32" to split both, and 32" to retract, that is 64" total, and you still have the time it takes to put 2 peices on there. If you go with a smaller length cylinder, and split them one at a time, 16" out and 16" back for each peice is STILL 64" total travel.

So aside from being NO time savings, there is a huge saftey factor. UNLESS you can cut peices of wood that are PERFECTALLY straight and PERFECTALLY square cuts, you run a huge risk of one of the peices flying out the side:confused2:

Good points LD, especially on the square cuts thing.

In my mind i figured the cycle as: Load 2 rounds. Cycle (i have a prince autocycle valve already). While its on autocycle, pre-stage 2 more rounds on the loglift. Repeat. Extend / retract times arent that important as its automatic both ways. It will take me more than 10 seconds to prestage 2 rounds, so the splitter should have its cycle complete by the time thats done.

Maybe im overthinking this. I think ill create a separate thread so as not to sidetrack the OP's with discussions not germane to his.
 
   / ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #23  
The spindles I used (were best of all FREE Wheels too) came off a '91 Plymouth Acclaim that was destined for the bone yard.

All I did was weld the rectangle plate on the spindle right to the ends of a 3" X 6" X 44" tube. I turned them upside down so they just cleared the inside top of the rims for the most ground clearance.

I used 3 X 3 angle for the gussets to the tounge tube, this created a larger area to stand while working between the lift and the oil tank.

See pics feel free to ask for more or use any of it.
 

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   / ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #24  
IMO put the wedge on the tail end of the beam and the push on the ram of the cylinder, WHY you ask less handling of the wood, the wood will side off and make a pile behind the splitter out to about 10 foot before having to be moved, and some talk about speed, but unless you have some one handling the fire wood to you, it takes me about the same time to turn (as the cylinder retracts in the détente valve) to get a another piece (usually out of the pick up parked about 3 feet behind me and the splitter) and turn around and lay it down take the handle and split, many times I keep the log there and turn it 90 degrees for a second time, and then let it slide off the tail end of the splitter and retract for another piece, (any faster I think it would be dangerous),
(in my splitting area, who ever is handling the log on the splitter is the one running the valve), not two party running if some one is to help me they bring me or I take them the logs to be split, and depending on the situation one does not need to retract the cylinder 100% if the log is not that long,
but the two stage pumps have HIGH VOLUME at LOW PRESSURE, for speed, and LOW VOLUME at HIGH PRESSURE, for power, about 600 psi on the low side and about 2000+ on the high side,

my son built his splitter on his wood hauling trailers tongue, and it shoves the wood right into his trailer for transport, with the wedge on the tail end side of it), he parks the trailer out side the shop and uses the wood right off the trailer for his shop stove.
 
   / ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #25  
I had thought about setting it up with the wedge on the tail end and pushing with the ram. That would be great if I had a reliable helper. I fly solo most of the time so this seems to work better for me.

Mabe the next one will be that way with a conveyor to dump it in the wagon or truck.

I'm still not sure if I want to use an autocycle valve or not.
I have a 30" stroke only because that cyl. didn't cost me a penny. I traded some junk that was stored in my shed for many years. More often than not, I only use 18" - 20" of it.

I just got a NT catalog in the mail and there's some single spool valves that will accept a PB plug. I may just go with another single spool valve for the lifter and keep the detent valve for the ram.

I just think I'll have too much wasted time waiting for a full cycle in and out.

Anyone got any input on that?
 
   / ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #26  
Most of the commercial splitters that are horizontal ONLY do have the wedge on the tail end of the beam.

Usually the only ones that have the wedge on the cylinder rod are the ones that have the ability to split vertically as well. So that may be an option for you to incorporate into the design. Because having the ability to go vertical wouldnt add much to the cost to make, but is a lifesaver when splitting huge rounds:thumbsup:
 
   / ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks!
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Thanks for the pics Deer!
Very helpfull, and may use some of your ideas:thumbsup:
 
   / ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #28  
my log splitter valve on detentes on the return stroke. to run forward one has to operate at all times, it but it does save time on the return,
 
   / ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #29  
I just think I'll have too much wasted time waiting for a full cycle in and out.

Anyone got any input on that?

I got one of the Prince Autocycles. Havent tried it yet. It was on sale for like $100 off so how could i pass that up???:thumbsup: Plus later i intend on turing my splitter into a firewood processor, so the autocycle will be handy for that.

Truthfully though i wonder how much time it will save with a traditional splitter? A few seconds per split? I suppose it will allow you to gather your rounds while the cyl cycles, so it could likely be more than a few seconds savings. If it wasnt on sale, i had intended on going with one of Prince's LSR? Regen valves. That can really cut down on the extension times.

If you look at the premium splitters the Autocycle seems to be pretty common. I think you dont see it on the cheaper ones due to cost (and a potential safety risk to untrained users).
 
   / ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #30  
The LSR Regen valve won't work for me, I have a 2 stage pump.

I didn't incorporate this splitter into becoming verticle mostly due to the size and weight of the beam. 6 1-2" X 8" X 79". Very heavy, so I opted for a log lift. Plus my back and knees don't take crouching very well anymore.

With a well sharpened ripping chain I can easily half the giant rounds for handling.
That's why I don't think I'd benefit from an autocycle valve.

Thanks to all, any input is greatly appreciated, otherwise I'll overthink this thing way too long.
 

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